Because I'm not rad to the max……..
wobbliscott – Member
I’ve been 1×10 for a while now. Replaced my outer ring with a bash guard and ditched the front mech. No chain drop at all. Totally secure, even over rough, rocky ground. I do have a Type 2 rear mech though, maybe that’s the difference.
But you’ve still got something to stop the chain dropping off the outside, unlike what the OP is intending.Posted 4 years agoitsmygameMember
I hoping to get away with running a 1 x 10 setup without a chain guide 😯 cue omgs and wtfs.
Any who it’ll be on a hard tail I do have a clutch mech and it will not be blatted down hill.
Soooooo my question is……..
Which chainring should I go for ? Cheaper the better preferably under £25-30
I know about the xx1 type things and the alternative but they are a little out of my price range ATM.
Cheers guysPosted 4 years agoNorthwindSubscriber
Oh yah, meant to add- 1×10 with clutch and normal single ring just didn’t work in the slightest for me, absolutely useless. Like, drop chain 6 times riding down falla brae at glentress useless, hardly the harshest test either so not really about radness.
1×10 with clutch and Works ring is working well so far, 1×10 with MRP 1X top guide worked very well before.Posted 4 years agorobinlaidlawMember
Every time I read one of these threads and look at peoples wildly differing experiences I’m forced to conclude that while it sounds like we are all talking about the same type of riding, the variation in riding styles and terrain ridden is really so big as to render any recommendation other than “Try it and see how you get on” more or less useless. 🙂Posted 4 years agoFOGSubscriber
I have been looking at going 1×10 for a while mainly to avoid one more thing to adjust or go wrong but being an old geezer with little left in the legs I use the Granny ring, not a lot, but enough to think I would miss it. What gearing would be a reasonable compromise of climbing ability versus speed on more open bits or the road between trails?Posted 4 years agounklehomeredSubscriber
Sram type 2 and no device here, OK so far, only one mid gnar chain loss in a couple of months, one when lifting over a gate, and one freewheeling over a rough wooden bridge. In short they hold the chain through tech, but there are other things with different types of motion that can drop the chain, I’m considering a simple top guide of some kind, a la the bionicon one.Posted 4 years agoahwilesSubscriber
FOG – Member
I use the Granny ring, not a lot, but enough to think I would miss it. What gearing would be a reasonable compromise of climbing ability versus speed on more open bits or the road between trails?
i’m a skinny weakling – i’m a twiddler, not a masher, and i’ve found 32ring + 11/34 cassette ok.
eventually, i’ll get a 10speed 36tooth cassette, and i guess that’ll be even more ok.Posted 4 years agostewartcSubscriber
Running a Widgit chainring (http://www.widgit.com.au/) at the moment with my XT drivetrain that includes a Shadow Plus and it seems to be working OK.Posted 4 years ago
Although its a little above your budget you may be able to pick up a good 2nd bargain, it also means that you do not need to worry (in theory) about chain retention at the front.
Still early days with it but opted for a 30t ring up front (11-36t at back) and not found it too difficult to climb although I must stress I have only been out on a couple of solo runs so far.
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