Bearing, bearings, bearings, Who thinks they know the score?
I chose hubs with 6000 series bearings which cost about 60p each. I don't mind changing them when they die, but even the cheapest bearings seem OK for at least 6 months. I add my own grease before fitting.
Elsewhere I've got CK headsets and UN54 BB's. Sorted.
And I adjust and regrease my M540 pedals whenever they need it.Posted 7 years ago
@simon1975 You can get SKF bearings in those sizes for pretty cheap, Pregreasing is a must. Most bearings are specific to rotational application so the grease isn't really water proof. Pivot point grease you can run most stuff like marine but hub/bb grease you need to get the right viscosity/water proof combo. At least that's what I think.Posted 7 years ago
I don't go in for full compliment. If you rotate an enduro max and then rotate an SKF, INA, NSK etc. you can feel the enduro max are no match for the Top end bearings. They are a lot better than the chinese or cheap jap / taiwanese bearings giant and specialized run. JNK or TPI are the two main brands and NBK also supplies them for some pivot points.Posted 7 years ago
Does replacing bearings before the wear becomes too serious prevent other more expensive parts being damaged
it means you can remove the bearing by hitting the inner race which is much easier than trying to prise out the outer race after the inner has shattered 🙂
Do you run any full sus frames?
isn't FS for tarts who can't ride properly ???Posted 7 years ago
Same as any other frame with a headset crank or wheels etc. Make sure they rotate smoothly.
As for damage from worn bearings. The worst is when the bearing binds or siezes and rotates in the housing and wares it away. Kona rockers are a perfect example of this.
As for checking the bearings, the most basic check on the back end is to remove the rear shock and run the back end gently through it's travel.
To be honest though with the amount of leverage the rear end gives you, it's still hard to tell.Posted 7 years agothisisnotaspoonMember
AGGGGGGGGG, MAKE IT STOP, PLEASE MAKE IT STOP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I do not believe that full compliment bearings should be used, even though they are better at dealing with heavier loads over Chinese bearings.
And that just makes no sense?
Unless the chinese bearing is a type I've missed.
Bearings, come from BETD, the local transmission/bearing shop, the original manufacturer depending on who's cheepest or been best in the past and whether they're a standard size or a manufacturers own.Posted 7 years agomessiahMember
Grease… there are so many kinds. For years I used the finish line white teflon stuff but it seems to dry out and generally be a bit rubbish. I then had some lovely red stuff which I cannot remember what it was but it was super thick and stayed where I put it – although using it for Hope hubs was a mistake since the pawls would not move and it made the hub feel sticky.
I've now got a tube of Weldtite which is red but I'm pretty underwhelemd with it other than it being the same colour as the good stuff I had – but fien for the hub application.
So… one grease for bearings that rotate a lot like hubs… and another thicker one for headsets and pivots which do not rotate a lot… does that make sense?Posted 7 years ago
Messiah. I agree the right grease is vital. I think they stopped making that pink grease. I spoke to a guy in a shop a while back and he mentioned it, can't remember the name. Good budget grease for hubs is moly grease. Same stuff as rocknroll grease without the ouch factor in the price.Posted 7 years ago
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