- BB7 with Hope floating rotor – OK?
Short answer: It’ll end in tears.
I’ve used bb7s for 10years, and if I were you I’d not try a floating rotor. The rotor needs to be able to flex when applying the brake because only one pad moves inward (unlike with hydros, such as juciys, which have 2 pistons moving simultaneously). A rotor with an aluminum carrier does not offer the flex needed to function properly without damage to the carrier; the aluminum would not return to its original shape in the same way as steel after it flexes. This would give the illusion of the rivets coming loose, when in fact the carrier has become deformed.
Hope that’s not too rambly…and hope that helps as well.Posted 5 years agobristolbikerMember
A rotor with an aluminum carrier does not offer the flex needed to function properly without damage to the carrier; the aluminum would not return to its original shape in the same way as steel after it flexes.
Eh? Are you saying that the carrier is less stiff in bending than a ~2mm sheet of stainless steel machined to within an inch of its life? I run centrelock rotors (not floating) on both my BB7 bikes and have never had an issue (other than having to nip off the inner pad tab as Onzadog says). Can’t comment on floating rotors 😉Posted 5 years ago
A rotor with an aluminum carrier does not offer the flex needed to function properly without damage to the carrier; the aluminum would not return to its original shape in the same way as steel after it flexes
Thanks for the reply but I don’t really agree with this unless you’re suggesting that the aluminium will actually permanently deform (which I don’t believe it will for the degree of flex we’re talking about) or that it’ll fatigue (in an unrealistic timescale).Posted 5 years agobikeryder85Member
just saying over time (esp if one doesn’t keep them adjusted properly) the metal will deform. Also not to say that it won’t work, just not recommended for bb7s. With all of my comments on here, they need to be taken with a grain of salt…I’m no expert 😉
Just a long winded way of me saying I wouldn’t, but I def won’t stop you from trying it.Posted 5 years agojamesoSubscriber
I have BB7s with std 1-pc rotors, they work great. Use some other floaters (1-pc stainless with flexible areas joined with rivets, forget the name, some Italian ones) as I swapped wheels and CBA changing rotors, they rubbed more and didn’t seem as easy to set up. No major issues for a couple of rides but was happy to get back to the other wheels. BB7s rely on a mm or 2 of rotor side-spring and floaters don’t always flex quite the same way. Anyway, BB7s won’t be ideal if you need the heat-resistant feature of floaters, the pastic bits will melt first )Posted 5 years ago
Just thought I’d follow up on this. I’ve been running hope floating rotors with my bb7s. They’re fine but things do need to be accurately set up to avoid rubbing. I also found that a very slight bit of filling of the caliper helps avoid the rivets catching if they’re not perfectly flat. I haven’t found any need to do anything to the pads as was suggested above.
So in short, it’s fine but maybe not an option for you if you find it hard to run bb7s rub free.Posted 4 years ago
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