When insulating loft conversion external brickwork walls we have had to pin 100mm dpm to tye back of the Battens before fixing to tye wall, as specced by architects.
You need to think where the inside air can get to, in relation to the temperature gradient in the wall. Air in the house could have quite a high actual moisture content, but because it’s warm, still a low relative humidity. If that air contacts the cold wall, it will chill, lose it’s ability to hold moisture and condensation will form. So you need to stop the internal air reaching a relatively cold surface.
The client would probably appreciate as much insulation as you can fit behind the panels. If it’s part of a larger refurbishment, you may be legally constrained to meet current building regulations, which might be tricky.
The client would probably appreciate as much insulation as you can fit behind the panels
I initially suggested it but he thought just battens would be best so it can breathe as I believe there may have been slight damp issues there before…
Man, why do I always get into these cans of worms? 😂
The distance from the brick to the face of the inner window frames is actually only 25mm so not very deep. I’d have to build out and create deeper window frames effectively.
I suspect before it was plastered and that was it.
Is there any way you can mitre up some MDF and fix it directly to the sash boxes? (I’m always a bit wary of fixing batten into skinny brickwork), helps with any cold bridging too.
Below the cill and to either side where it’s solid 9” go nuts, batten out what you like.
I wouldn’t worry about any DPM, any damp problems will most likely be caused by external issues.