Hi

I have always followed the sram instruction of chain length.

Wrap unused chain around biggest front and rear cog and add two links ( only going through the front mech)

Thing is I think I have been running chains too long really using this method

Do others have any rules of thumb, that’ll be better?

That’s a good rule of thumb, any shorter and you have to pay attention not to end up in big-big.

i run it through both mechs across the largest cogs and then take it to the next link that will complete the chain.

No point running it through the rear mech if doing big big and 2 links.

Big to big plus two links has always worked for me.

Ditto B to B +2

same as the one I just took off (minus stretch)

In reality: I counted the links on the first chain I took off the current bike about 3 years ago. I then did the same on the new chain. I then put a small pin tack into the door frame of the garage door hung one end of the chain off it and drew a line at the other end. Which is where I now cut the chain on every new one.

Serious question – how many extra / less links do you need if you go from a 30-32-34-now 36T rear cassette?

Every 2 teeth adds a half link (i.e. one set of inner or outer plates and one pin). I think. I worked that out in my head.

So I would say add a link if you go up by 4 teeth. Maybe add a link if you go up 2 teeth depending on how much slack you have in big/big.

I seem to recall letting the air out of your rear shock and compressing it fully to get chain lenght on a full suss.

something about simulating chain growth under full travel or some such?

Big big and about a fingers gap between the mech and the chain. Or Big big and two links as above. Both work fine.

Threaded thru the rear mech normally, small ring small cog and the chain should be just not touching the top jockey wheel.

Russell96: The reason that’s not optimal is that you’re making the chain as slack as possible. Using the method everyone else has posted minimises the chain length and therefore makes the chain as tight as possible which improves shifting.

Totally agree and use the classic method on a hardtail/roadbike but on a 4/5/6 inch travel full suss bike there is going to be a fair bit of movement and unless the pivot is around the BB for example Cove G Spot then as the suspension compresses its going to take up a fair bit of chain length. Dont need millisecond accurate shifting plus I dont need snapped chains when hammering the suspension.

thanks everyone. Apologies i should have stated ht. With a susser i think i need a bit longer compressing the sus.

Thanks all.