- Bar width and stem length. Is there a formula?
If it is any help bar width will be a highly unfashionable 680ish max. No need for Gnar credentials. Just a point where old shoulders feel comfortable for longer rides.
If it were a normal stem i could just do the trail and error approach. Sadly the Lefty rules this out without exercising the “flexible friend”.Posted 5 years agocookeaaSubscriber
There isn’t a formula that I’m aware of, but I can see the case for someone trying to work one out based on the rider and desired position.
As a basic starting point I think it would need to be based on a factoring/scaling from riders shoulder width and/or Arm length?
It seems odd, that given the level of measurment and analysis that is carried out on Road, TT, Track and even XC bikes layout that there’s not so much applied to AM/DH/FR type MTBs…
Wider bars/shorter stem is better? it must all come down to the rider and the application at the end of the day….Posted 5 years ago
Please bear with me here. May be some rambling to follow.
I have in the garage an old Cannondale Jeckyl from the turn of the Century. I recently had the idea of resurrecting it. However, a post fettling ride proved that it is not going to fill the gap for longer ride comfort.
Narrow bars at 630mm and long stem giving very much a head down arse up position that my old bones will not wear for all day jaunts. I know that wider bars will exaggerate this even more unless I get a shorter stem. This is not going to be a cheap enterprise due to the Lefty stem (25.4 to further complicate things) so I want to get it right.
Is there a formula that might help me get the wider bars/shorter stem plus decreasing the overall reach without trail and error?
Any help appreciated. Also please feel free to point any flaws in my thinking.Posted 5 years agosmiffMember
i think there is a formula, but i don’t know it is! all i know the right stem length seems to follow closely from head angle. slack ha, shorter stem, steeper HA, longer stem. when i change fork, or travel, or even headset lower cup – anything that changes HA, i always end up changing stem to make it feel right. this has happened on several bikes and forks now. you have a small amount of adjustment from bar tilt also, since changing grip position is effectively same thing. iow, for particular fork, there’s a particular stem that makes steering “right”. this unfortunately means little adjustment of frame fit possible.Posted 5 years ago
bar width is mostly about comfort and fitting through trees though. again YMMV.mjsmkeMember
For practicality buy some wide bars and move the grips in. The cut the bars down when you find the optimum width. As for stems, just try some if can borrow them off mates to get a feel of the handling/position pros and cons before buying an expensive one.
For fashion. Take a 5ft broom handle and bolt it directly onto of the steerer tube. No need for a stem.Posted 5 years agoNormal ManSubscriber
Not sure if this is what you are looking for but will this formula do:
😉Posted 5 years agomuckyteeMember
So we are trying to find the length from the handle bar to the riders chest. The longer the length the more upright the rider will be.
Therefore I would get a broom handle or similar, mark off 630mm, then any other lengths you are considering say 710mm.
I would then hold the broom handle straight in front of me with my back against the wall and get a friend to measure the distance from the broom handle to my chest, I would then add the length of the stem to get my final measurement.
So for me with 630mm bars, the distance from my chest to the bar is 600mm.
with 710mm bars, the distance from my chest to the bar is 510mm.
If therefore I ran my 630mm bars with a 0mm stem I would require a 90mm stem to achieve a similar effect with the 710mm bars.
This is all a bit abstract and needs refinement but hey 😛Posted 5 years ago
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