The VW van in the local garage has got me thinking – I can’t afford it; it is too big for my needs (just now) and something smaller would be cheaper (2 out of those 3 are definitely correct).

Anyway, mate at work has an 04 Fiat Dobro 1.9 JTD going to be on offer for about 800 quid.

Last MOT was passed with no faults or advisories and apart from a new rear door handle, it appears sound (he does bangeromics constantly but his last batch he has kept for a while).

The vehicle and current owner tick the boxes as I know he looks after his vehicles and he is honest about what needs done to it.

However, something that old…how often do they fail? I mean in general as I suspect few people on here have that model and age.

I’m thinking a grand will have it bought and insured, it’ll be a weekend vehicle but how much should I be factoring in for ‘fixes’? My last attempt at bangeromics failed miserably, so I’m more wary this time but it does seem to be ticking the requirements…I just need to know what other people who go down this route factor in as on-going costs…

Dunno but the OH’s 12 year old fiesta is giving me headaches.

New clutch 2 months ago

Then the water pump

Then the exahust

Then 2x tyres

Then a wheel bearing

And a trip round the houses getting clutch and exhaust related faults fixed under warranty for the MOT.

Blasted thing has had more spent on it in the last 2 months than it’s worth. So it’ll now either be fine for years, or die catastrophically.

Two options…

Buy it, use it and flog it after a year before it falls apart and repeat

Or buy it and run it into the ground and not really give two f@@ks about loosing the £800 over 3-5 years.

The risk is £800 minus scrap value and maybe getting stuck out in the countryside somewhere.

As per neilsonwheels. I’m writing this from my £400 golf seems to be doing ok and paid for itself so if it goes wrong I’ll scrap it. A few months ago the oil pressure warning buzzer started going off a couple of hundred miles from home late at night internet suggested a faulty switch so I just continued driving knowing it’s only a four hundred quid car with aa coverage if the engine did melt – which it didn’t 🙂 . With the proviso that I don’t know anything about that Fiat but with a years mot it sounds ok from your description of the owner

You can’t really measure the risk….

But the only time my bangers not got me home was the occasion the frontera got swiped in the side and rammed into a bus.

Most things are cheap to repair if you listen to the car and can wield spanners occasionally. If your the sort to go to the garage with the slightest noise then I wouldn’t take the risk it will be pricy. Equally if you are unable to distinguish between dangerous- IE tires/brakes or inconvienances such as burning a little oil over 6 months or a rusty wing then it wouldn’t be wise either.

Yourguitarhero has it. The only real risk is the cost which is low. You need to be able to walk away. Scrap/spare-repairs values are actually pretty decent so worth allowing for. The other issue is getting stuck. TBH that has happened to me far more times due to complicated engine management or other electrics going wrong in relatively good cars than in ever has in bangers

The bigger risk is how much you *need* that car to work and get you somewhere for work/kids/life.

Bangernomics ish for me means I run a car as long as I can – usually scrapped at the end of my ownership. It is cheaper, but I do have to keep more of an eye and ear out on the vehicle than a newer one. I have half an idea of mechanics, happy to sort out things that are simple, happy to have a car with a couple of minor issues, glad I have a good an honest garage in Stirling to use when I am not sure.

As yet, I have had bills and frustrations, but not a car let me down.

Ta…so the main concerns have reaffirmed my thoughts. The cost of the vehicle isn’t really the issue…I guess it is more – how much is likely to go wrong in a 13 year old car with 118k on the clock? And how pricey could it be?

I mean standard things rather than a complete engine failure that needs a new engine type thing.

We’ve had a 54 reg Doblo 1.9 JTD for £800 a couple of years ago and barring the usual running costs and a new timing belt (£190) when we first got it (for peace of mind) it’s been as reliable as tomorrow. It’s cheap to run and insure and they’re long enough that you can sleep in the back if you bin the seats and we’ve had four 26″ bikes with both wheels on in no hassle, again with the back seats taken out (which is a 5 minute job as they’re only held in with three (I think) M8 bolts)) They can get a wriggle on as well if you want them to.

edit- ours had 180-odd thousand on the clock and now has the thick end of 220 thousand with regular oil changes. It’s great and I’d have another one if/when the time comes to wave goodbye to Makem Dave (our Doblo).

And how pricey could it be?

Isn’t the thing with Bangernomics that as soon as a pricey problem comes up, you scrap and move on?

as reliable as tomorrow

I think that phrase may have lost its meaning over the last few months 🙂

I ran my 04 astra tdi until last year and 140k. I only sold it as I inherited another much newer car otherwise i would have kept it. Mechanically sound, it’s only real concern was corrosion which you can’t beat in the long term. I sold it for 450 to a mechanic and it is still running and passed its subsequent MOT.

For me corrosion is the crux though.

Last 5 or 6 cars have been bangers, pure economics and because constantly chucking bike in, chucking wood and garden stuff in etc, i only trash them anyway, so have had 3 Berlingo (car and van variants and now an Astra Estate), my unofficial rules are:

– Look for as longer MOT as possible, i figure if it has 11 months MOT and i pay £550 (as i did my 2006 Astra) then if you get a year out of it, then no loss.
– By a make and model that are easy to get parts from a scrappers for, eg Vauxhall
– by a make and model you still see a lot of on the roads, i.e. I’d never buy a Montego or a Metro.
– Buy something you can service yourself easily and keep on top of the servicing.
– Have half decent breakdown cover.

What ever the Service History says, service it as soon as you get it, and check cambelt etc.

I mean standard things rather than a complete engine failure that needs a new engine type thing.

Clutch £350
Water pump £200
Tyres £160 (2x goodyear efficient grip + tracking)
Exhaust £115
Wheel bearing £85

You can’t really budget for everything through, unless you fastideously check every belt, bearing and bushing on the car before you buy it then it could need something tomorrow, or it might all be perfect.

I usually try and think of things wearing out rather than needing replacing. So £115 for the exhaust bought me the last few miles/months of motoring, not “if I pay this then I’ve got another 6 months”, don’t try and think of the future as that’s unpredictable (unless you know some other big bill is coming up in which case you’ve dodged a bullet and can scrap it with a clean conscience).

+ on corrosion.

common cars – no rare engine variants or super desirable high power / easy tunable variants – makes it easier to get engines/boxes easy.

both my current cars i can get replacement engines for less than a cambelt if i had to……

as for the specific doblo – depends on whats already been done.

id expect wheelbearings , strutts , springs , MAF , timing belt, Waterpump , AUX tensioners , wishbones possibly all to have been done or needing done soon
thats ignoring consumables such as disks/pads/tyres and generic servicing

I would say an essential bangernomics key point is fixing stuff yourself. If you take a car to the garage to fit a water pump or brakes or ignition stuff its pointless. As is buying brand new parts to fit (unless its economic to do so) – buying used parts is a key.

I would say another key is buying a car based solely on condition. Obviously dont buy an MX5 if you need to carry people and bikes around, but otherwise consider anything. Look out for cars which people don’t want anymore. All cars have seats for people and a boot so buying an uncool car reaps dividends.

My Volvo 940 cost £400. Yes really! It had £10k spent on it in the previous 5 years before I bought it. It’s flippin massive (I’m not kidding, I got a 3 seater sofa INSIDE it one day), has a reputation for comfort and reliability and its easy to work on and parts are cheap. Fully galvanised and no rust. I’ve spent some cash on it as its a car I’ve always wanted (lowered suspension, bigger wheels etc) but in relaity I spent only about £100 getting it through its MOT once I’d had it for 8 months so its good for another year. It had a full stainless exhaust on it before I bought it and 4 Michelin Cross Climate tyres too (which cost £400 on their own!)

It’s also now quite fast. 😉 And RWD. 😆

It was cheap because its stuck between the classic Volvo models and the new ones so prices are rock bottom (but climbing).

That Volvo^^^ Swoon!

I would love that

I would be asking, how many of the consumables have been replaced recently?

Has it had tyres, brake pads/discs recently or are they going to need doing as soon as you buy it?

Have the once in a while things been done? Timing belt, clutch?

If none of that had been done, I’d probably be walking.

That Volvo^^^ Swoon!

I would love that

Sorry not selling. 😉

I’ve put a lot of money into it now, it’s got a 2″ suspension drop with Bilstein sport dampers, I’ve customised the interior with Alcantara type stuff, the interior is MINT now. It has 17″ Citroen steel wheels on it (standard alloys are 15″).

Will be running about 210bhp very soon for the grand cost of £20…..

Its the top of the range model with cruise/climate control/full leather/electric memory seats/sunroof etc etc………

It handles a lot better now, when you floor it it embarrases a lot of modern cars even at standard power. However it is RWD and reasonably heavy and was meant as an executive car in the 1990’s so it is like piloting a rocket propelled narrow boat in its handling…..

Banganomics is awesome – been doing it for 25 years!

Never paid more than £1K for anything and only done that twice

The key is finding something nice – always a private sale and if you know the person you are buying it of, and they have not had lots of trouble, then you should be ok

Past MOT certificates is a must to see what the advisory’s have been is also very helpful

The biggest thing is to know when to walk away – if the repair is going to cost you 50% of what you paid then scrap it for £100 and move on to the next one

My last motor was a ’97 Audi A4 – paid £700, done 70K in 5 years and sold it for £500 with a long MOT. Currently driving a ’04 Mazda 6 – paid £1K last April and it just sailed through the MOT with two minor advisorys

I’ve never understood peoples logic or buying or leasing a new car at £300 to £400 per month for the sake of reliability and having a shiny car outside – mugs!

I much prefer a workhorse which i don’t mind getting mud in the back or people damaging the paint at the supermarket

Much rather save my money for biking kit & trips

Newrobdob – that Volvo is awesome – top work!! 🙂

04 plate and 800 quid would be new and expensive for me .My last car was 400 quid on an x 4 years ago ,it’s still going

Past MOT certificates is a must to see what the advisory’s have been is also very helpful

All online now at gov.uk which is a massive help……

Pics of the interior for the fans….

Point about bangernomics is to buy really cheaply, and then just scrap it if anytihng expensive happens.

£1000 is outside true bangernomics territory.

Love that Volvo- shooting brake tastic! 😀

edit- our last banger was an £800 L reg Toyota Lucida auto. It was comfy and it’d waft along nicely with a couple of motorcycles in the back but blimey it was thirsty. It eventually went pop on my way home from Newcastle one afternoon (head gasket, known problem) so we binned it and bought the Doblo.

the risk is the cost or value of the vehicle as noted

My car is at 160k with only som oil changes and fixing consumables for the MOT

Will get one year out of it but possibly not another – too many small niggling problems means i want to replace it

IMHO the best part if bangers is you know what the maximum repair bill is- the risks are not really any greater than any other car things will either work or break might be more likely to do the later than a brand new car but mates have been through better cars than mine in the same time

That said i have been lucky with this one but the luck is running out

Just make sure you’ve got good AA cover. *Cough* email in profile…

Love that Volvo- shooting brake tastic!

the descriptor you are looking for is “estate car”

id say with the money spent on it now its gone from bangernomics back into loved classic territory.

No idea whatsoever on Fiats, but my 16 year-old BMW passed its MOT in December with just one advisory (for low oil, which was wrong anyway) and clicked over to 184,000 miles this morning.

Bangernomics can be great, or it can be awful. As mentioned, a lot will hinge on whether you can do most jobs yourself (cheaper, and at a time that’s convenient) or if you need to pay someone else (£££s) to do it during their working hours (possibly very inconvenient for you; dropping off, collecting, being without a car for a day or two).

Just make sure you’ve got good AA cover

Or save yourself 10% of the cost of the car/van and purchase AutoAid instead 🙂

I had that engine in an Astra and had endless expensive problems, it’s complicated and not easy to fix. Smaller garages refused to do the clutch/flywheel as it was a big job, and when electric problems/limp mode started playing up my local garage said i’d be better off selling it. (it never failed an MOT, but that checks safety related stuff mostly) It wouldn’t be my first choice for bangernomics, simple is better imo.

However, buying on condition is key, so maybe the one will be fine?

My 16 year old Focus has been far more reliable over the last 3 years. i do easy stuff myself (discs & pads, spark plugs, heater resistor pack) but i get the oil/filter changed at the garage as it only costs 40 quid.

Whilst true about scrapping bangers the one I have was worth the 400 quid for a clutch because there was nothing wrong with it otherwise .That was 18 months ago which justifies that decision

Don’t forget you can check MOT history online for free with just a number plate – MOT History Check

just read mine and the fools failed to switch from trip computer to mileage so my mileages are all over the place i did 112,000 miles one year for example!!

Hey, why no ‘shooting brake’?

because your not going to carry a shooting party very far into the hills in that are you 😉

“the shooting-brake was conceived “to take gentlemen on the hunt with their firearms and dog””

people are throwing it around because it seems more hip than estate car – but its still an estate car….

people are throwing it around because it seems more hip than estate car – but its still an estate car….

Most estates nowadays are shooting brakes, as they aren’t proper estates. My modern Focus estate I think I could park inside my Volvo….

sounds like they are just small estates rather than a shooting brake.

The acid test is – does the tail gate lower half fold down so you can have your champers sat on the tailgate 😉