I can see the appeal of 1xN but current range on offer still isn’t quite there for my sparrow legs, 3xN is dead IMO, 2xN still has plenty of useful applications across MTBing…

Same here, can see the aesthetic appeal but can’t quite see much of an advantage in the real world of going 1xN, mind you I still revel in the joys of a triple on my road bike so wtf do I know.

Also those MRP Bling Rings that fit on certain SRAM cranks

There are a few options for 30t rings for Shimano cranks as well. That said, 32-40 provides a smaller gear than 30-36 without losing the top end (with the obvious disadvantage being bigger spacing which I’d personally be able to live with), so for the right price I’d definitely prefer the cassette.

I’ll wait for much much cheaper versions to come out in a few months. I dongle see a lot of point going from 3 to 2 rings, but absolutely understand going from 2 to 1 as it drops the need for left hand shifting which makes things so simple.

Dickyboy – Member

Same here, can see the aesthetic appeal but can’t quite see much of an advantage in the real world of going 1xN,

Of my 2 main bikes, 1 is 1×10, the other 2×9. And on the one hand, I’d have struggled with the climbing for the dudes of hazzard enduro last year on 1×10. But on the other, my bloomin chain wouldn’t have fallen off mid-stage. The chain management of 1×10 is a pretty nice thing on rougher trails.

float – Member

dear manufacturers. IDGAS about weight. please make this out of steel so i dont have to worry about it wearing out. thanks.

Most likely chosen for ease of manufacture rather than weight loss I reckon.

In fact sod it I may go the whole hog and fit chainrings to the back wheel and a cassette on the crank , I’ll have some right gears 😉

If people want to ride round with a dinner plate cog on the back as its so much better goin 1 x 10 than a standard set then who am I to argue

By the way svalgis I don’t need two rings I only use one, I do have a bike with an engine and I don’t need my seat on the unicycle I just prefer it . Hope I didn’t spoil too much of your fun 😉

In fact sod it I may go the whole hog and fit chainrings to the back wheel and a cassette on the crank , I’ll have some right gears

be like that gearbox Dh bike

I think it would be interesting, to save weight. One shifter, one front derraileur, one granny.
I’ve ordered one of these from ebay.
Let’s see how it works…

Righto…

Just arrived!
Let’s see now how it really works on 1×10 with 36T on front…

Great buy,

1×10 with 36T on front, allows me to climb where I want. And got enough speed when going down
Smooth shifting with my Seam X9

Simple, like it!

I know some people are/have been running this for a while now. Can we have an update as to how you have found it?

Getting rid of all the shifters and gears is lovely though.

ftfy

Specifically for those that are running this:

1: How much does the Shimano version weigh in comparison to the rear most part of the normal Shimano XT cassette? In the video on a site reviewing it they say the SRAM version is 188g.

2: Where can you buy it in the UK?

3: Does it work with Shimano Zee short cage (freeride wider ratio version not downhill) rear derailleur? Some things I have read say no short cage works, others say they work but not brilliantly.

4: How does it work with SRAM short cage X9 type 2 rear derailleurs?

5: Same as above, but with medium…apparently very well from a review I read.

Funnily enough my wife now runs this on her bike, she hates having a front mech & the clattering involved, but didn’t quite have the legs for a ‘normal’ 1×10 setup. This is set up with a 32T out front & a 11-40T on the back.

I had a spare SRAM 1070 cassette in the spares box so it made sense to give it a try. The full cassette with lockring weighed 327g, so is actually lighter than an XT 11-36T 10-spd cassette, which was a nice surprise.

To answer the questions.

1. See above
2. I bought hers from Bike Discount. It took 2 days to get here.
3. Supposedly it does, hers is set up with a GS Cage XT shadow plus mech. I wouldn’t run it with a short cage due to the angle it sits at, medium would be best IMO. It’s right b*stard to get it shifting cleanly too. Set up perfectly it’s either a touch lazy on the downshift, or the up depending on tweaking the cable tension. Half a turn on the barrel adjuster affects this either way.

Overall it’s a good system IMO, i’m hoping as it’s a new chain, mech & cassette it will bed in a bit over the next couple of rides & the shifting will improve.

For comparison its noticably more noisy & sluggish to shift than my 1×10 setup on my bike (XX 11-36, KMC X10SL, Saint mech.

Having a go on it was quite nice, it was like having an extra couple of gears over my setup. I can see the benefit after a long day in the saddle, but i’m fit enough to compensate for not having it now.

I can’t see the Shimano one for sale anywhere yet but pinkbike says it’s out now?
Thanks for the info.
My issue is still the price. £104 from bike-discount. It’s twice the cost of a rear mech for…well..half a rear mech. And it will wear out. The Shimano one looks to be a different colour rather than that minging green as well. ;o) Aka a silvery colour?

I think there is a market for someone to make just a 40 tooth that can slot in the back behind the existing cassettes and do away with a ring of your choice further down the range. In fact, there is such a product out there someone has made. I cannot find it now but there was a sprocket you could buy on ebay that was around 40 tooth that was designed to be ran in this way. The trouble was that it was very heavy and not very “machined out” to save weight. It was just some guy knocking them out on a cnc mill I think.

If the General Lee was cheaper I would consider it. I’d run it with a 34 or 36.

Have been running it with a 34t front rind and it’s a pretty good range, but I do tend to grind rather than spin.
Hob Nob mentioned shifting with Shimano & I had exactly the same issue, could never get it spot on and had to run it slightly slow climbing the cassette so that it would drop back down correctly. I have swapped over to Sram X9 now and it works perfectly. Not sure why, but it does.

I can’t see the Shimano one for sale anywhere yet but pinkbike says it’s out now?

Think it was the end of June/start of July it was available, so literally days.

My issue is still the price. £104 from bike-discount. It’s twice the cost of a rear mech for…well..half a rear mech. And it will wear out. The Shimano one looks to be a different colour rather than that minging green as well. ;o) Aka a silvery colour?

Price is subjective of course, but comparing it against an XX1 system it’s a lot cheaper. It also makes more sense for us as there is a lot of parts cross compatibility between our bikes, and because of the new stupid XX1 freehub drivers it would mean 2 whole new systems, whereas this runs off a normal freehub.

I run an XX cassette on my bike anyway, so this is poverty spec by comparison 😉 It should easily last 12 months though. Even the soft cheese alloy 36T ring on my XX cassette lasted well.

The colour is more grey than green in real life – doesn’t match the normal silver of a cassette, but it doesn’t look bad at all.

I think there is a market for someone to make just a 40 tooth that can slot in the back behind the existing cassettes and do away with a ring of your choice further down the range. In fact, there is such a product out there someone has made. I cannot find it now but there was a sprocket you could buy on ebay that was around 40 tooth that was designed to be ran in this way. The trouble was that it was very heavy and not very “machined out” to save weight. It was just some guy knocking them out on a cnc mill I think.

If the General Lee was cheaper I would consider it. I’d run it with a 34 or 36.

You’ve answered your own question there. The Leonardi cassette has had quite a lot of machine work to make it a sensible weight, that machining time costs money.

Hob Nob mentioned shifting with Shimano & I had exactly the same issue, could never get it spot on and had to run it slightly slow climbing the cassette so that it would drop back down correctly. I have swapped over to Sram X9 now and it works perfectly. Not sure why, but it does

Glad it’s not just me! I think what it does is emphasises the system ‘dwell’ that you read about on the Park Tools website for setting up rear mechs. I’ve done similar, so it’s slightly lazy on the upshift to ensure it drops down the block nicely (the issue was 4th-5th gear, swapping from the modified to the SRAM bit – all the others were fine).

This kind of sums it up here:

Modern indexing shift levers use dwell, which is a hesitation between movements in the lever. These hesitations are timed to match the movements of the derailleur and the spacing in the rear sprockets. The design of some derailleur and shift lever brands requires more of a push (or twist) of the lever to complete the shift. The amount of extra push or twist is not consistent between manufacturers and each rider must learn the particular attributes of his or her system.

Which is what I do when I shift anyway, my wife however…

Put it this way, I can’t wait for proper Di2 on an MTB. She presses the button & expects instant, perfect shifting every time, regardless of conditions, incline, full load etc.

coursemyhorse – Member

In fact, there is such a product out there someone has made. I cannot find it now but there was a sprocket you could buy on ebay that was around 40 tooth that was designed to be ran in this way. The trouble was that it was very heavy and not very “machined out” to save weight. It was just some guy knocking them out on a cnc mill I think.

been looking for this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/mtbtools/m.html?item=261176417496&pt=US_Cassettes_Freewheels_Cogs&hash=item3ccf53dcd8&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

according to this
http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12918465&p=18281075

175g for the 38 tooth , 230g for the 41t!

has anyone used this?

for 35 quid delivered Im tempted

emailed the distributors about that trickstuff cassette

At the moment there is no pricing available although we expect to have this within the next week.

There have been 100 produced so far and they will start to ship in the next 3-4 weeks. I would expect it to be around £80-£90.

Regards

Balfa UK

for 35 quid delivered Im tempted

But what do you get rid of? You either get rid of your 11 (and have to buy a new 13 to work with the lockring), and then end up with a narrower range, or you have a stupid jump near the bottom.

I’m out.

stupid jump for me!

been thinking about this, not keen on loosing the 11t

the 38t wont be that much difference from 36 which means if going for 41t would only be used as a bail out gear

whats the deal with shimanos 2014 gearing (snowball in hell of an XT 10sp 11-40t which is what I want 😥 )

emailed the distributors about that trickstuff cassette

Interesting, good shout. Sounds better than the General Lee as a bodge option.

whats the deal with shimanos 2014 gearing

XTR due a refresh for 2015, 1×11 Di2 I reckon, using an XD body as that’s gained momentum.

I’ve run one if the ss 38t eBay sprockets & it works ok. I have run it with a 4t gap between the 11 & 15 sprockets which is a bit much tbh. So I’ve sourced a 16t sprocket from sjs so that the ratios are now 11/13/16/19/21 which is better but not perfect.

this is the most ridiculous thread ever.

2 gears at the front – one for going fast one for when u are knackered/lazy.

a front mech is no faff at all to set up/run.

who wants a cassette bigger than their disks? looks stupid. same as 9 and 10 speed but you cant stand in the way of progress i suppose. i want a custom 6 speed casette. maybe i`ll mess about in the shed later…

van halen

its for racing gravity enduros, been dropping the chain on my current 2x setup and appreciate just the one lever for gear changes for those sharp climbs in the middle of a run !

also like to run my dropper lever only on the left hand side

thick thin chainrings and clutch mech means can loose the weight of a guide but at the moment its just the gear range holding me back- well that or my fitness

(xx1 or even xo1 is just waaaay to pricy for me)

oh and doesnt look quite so silly on bigger wheels

Anyone tried adapting a Shimano Capreo hub and going for smaller rings at the other end of the cassette?

Could the freehub just be transferred to a Shimano MTB hub?

I’ve been running 1x set ups for a while now and to be honest, I’m gradually moving back to 2x set ups. I just find the range too restrictive despite the well documented benefits – you just can’t get a low enough gear with 1x IMO. fitting a smaller chainring obviously helps, but then it all gets a bit spinny at the top end. The 40t cassette adaptors help, but as other posters have noted you’re actually still losing a fair bit of bottom end.

I found this, bit too pricey for an experiment though..
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-Capreo-Dise-Hubs-32H-Silver-/141043269591

Anyone tried adapting a Shimano Capreo hub and going for smaller rings at the other end of the cassette?

http://canfieldbrothers.com/components/9-tooth-rear-hub

Looks **** stupid. If you arent fit enough to pedal a 36 then you arent going to win anyway!

Come on either shimano or sram 11-40t 10 speed cassette (that’s all we are asking for?)

jonny rocky mountain – Member
Come on either shimano or sram 11-40t 10 speed cassette (that’s all we are asking for?)

Or you could buy Shimano’s new 1×11 XTR Groupset.

Another pic of the TrickStuff 11-40 Cassette

That looks good, could definitely be tempted by that.

hmmmm wonder if theyll do a deal on a cassette and chainring

I love my 3×9 setup.

Considering I use both the lowest and highest gears on regular occasions, anything else is a compromise. Tried 2×9 in the past and it felt lacking. Maybe 2×10 would almost be there, but I feel no real need tbh.

I can’t see 3x dying out any time soon – there are people who do use all the gears and even more who think they need them.

But there are also a growing number who’ve tried 1x (often via 2x) and are very happy with the simplicity of it and don’t find any downside (for what they actually ride) who want a range that gives them the gearing they want.

I’ve found an 11-36 fine for what I ride but I can see that if I did longer, very hilly rides, an 11-40 or even 10-40 would be useful to get the benefits of 1x with no downside for that kind of riding. Why wouldn’t I want it?

Without getting into the whys and wherefores of running 1xn, I chose to go with the General Lee 28-40t Shimano adapter with a 34t Hope ring with built in bash guard. Running it with an SLX long cage clutch mech I had seen it on someones bike during a week in the Alps with Trail Addiction this summer. Was it you and your wife hob nob?

General Lee 40T – Cassette Adaptor (Shimano)

As the guy says on the video here it is a compromise and the mech is working out of its range so xtr type, smooth as velvet shifting is never gonna be the case. However, with a bit of patience you can get better than acceptable shifting. Along with most that have this set up I’ve found that shifting one way or the other is slighty smoother and so mine is adjusted such that shifting up the block is crisp and sharp. Coming down it slightly hesitant but still well within the acceptable range. From my experience, I found chain length the most important factor in chain retention. After my 1st, not hugely successful attempt, I followed this guys advice re chain length

I’m tempted to agree with his comment re there’s only 1 correct chain length!

All that said, how’s it riding?

Had it on for a few weeks now and I’ve ridden the usual north Wales spots. ‘degla, Marin, Coedy, Penmach. Before anyone jumps in, I appreciate not the gnarliest but hey these are just my experiences. I’m not running any chain guide and with the chain length set I’ve yet to drop the chain and with the built in bash guard the chainring looks less naked! With 34t at the front I’ve yet to find anything I cant climb that I could before. Any climbs I cant make are where I just run out of talent!! I know I can drop down to 32t or even 30t with a raceface narrow wide ring but I tend to think if there are easier gears available, I’ll use them but not necessarily because I need too but just because they’re there!

There’s not much about it I dont like so far. The simplicity is great and I love the improved look of the bars. It is noticably quieter as well. I honestly haven’t noticed any big jumps between the gears and still find most of my shifting I’m going up or down more than one gear. It might look slightly better at the back with the medium cage mech and as or when it needs replacing I’ll probably try that option. There is a weight saving but as a 6’5″ 15.5st rider on an Orange Alpine it was never going to be of much significance! All in all I’m really pleased with it and if I wasn’t my old setup would’ve gone straight back on with the General Lee adapter appearing on eBay!! Only time will tell re wear but with dont forget the XX1 cassette goes for £329 rrp.

As I said earlier, these are just my experiences and take from them what you will.

I’ve been running my General Lee 28-42 adapter for about three weeks with a 32t Wolftooth thick/thin ring, the rest of a new XT cassette and a XT GS (medium) cage mech.

The chain retention is perfect and the gear range all I’ll ever need. I am, however, slightly disappointed with the shifting on and off the adapter. Going from gear 4 (biggest cog on the original cassette) on to gear 3 (smallest on General Lee) the chain simply won’t shift with just one click of the rear shifter (M980 if anyone is interested to know). I find that I have to overshift up to at least to to gear 2 or even gear 1 then drop back down if I want to actually pedal in gear 3. It’s a bit of a shame and my only gripe. I’m an absolute stickler for crisp shifting and meticulous set up so it gets on my nerves and only time will tell whether I can tolerate it or whethe i cut my losses with the set up.

Tried everything; filing the teeth down on the General Lee to assist with chain pick up, making a thinner spacer to run between General Lee and cassette but nothing seems to really help. B-tenision and cable tension are optimised to make the shifting across the rest of the gears as slick as I would expect. The Trickstuff cassette looks interesting.

Any thoughts anyone?

Any thoughts anyone?

I’ve been through the same thing with mine. After trying swapping parts around to try it with SRAM mech and shifter, long cage rather than medium cage Shimano rear mech, new cables and a different cassette, I’m convinced that it’s simply due to the B-tension setting required to keep the jockey wheel off the big sprocket, the mech is too far from the sprockets in the middle of the block.
I reached this conclusion when I tried swapping in the standard top three sprockets instead of the General Lee ones without adjusting anything else. The shifting was still less than ideal. Adjusting the B-tension to suit the 36t sprocket fixed it straight away. I’ve got mine working acceptably but you need to finesse that particular shift by pushing the lever past the click until it climbs up. I think the only thing that might fix it would be DIYing a version of the XX1 fix and offsetting the top jockey wheel back behind the pivot so that the rotation of the tensioner arm caused it to track the cassette better. I may give it a go.