- anyone tried the new muckynutz rear guard ?
Just got one of the rear guards yesterday and fitted it. Bit of a jigsaw puzzle working out how to fold it, but it went on fine and seems secure. I haven’t ridden with it yet so I can’t say for sure how robust it will be in everyday use or how well it will keep off the muck, but it looks like the coverage is as good as the Topeak Defender M2 that was on before (and at 50g it’s 150g lighter than the Defender for any weight weenies out there). Held on by a velcro strap so it only takes a few seconds to fit or remove.Posted 4 years agocrashtestmonkeyMember
in response to tinas and iainc; the bender fender (saddle rail mounted) is sensitive to saddle and post design and set up. Mine works fine (WTB Silverado and a GD, quite a bit of set back) but the other half has a Selle Italia where the rails join the saddle via a plastic spar, this pushes the fender down to an angle of about 45 degrees making it useless.
Mine also works better on my FS than on my HT, the difference in saddle set-back alters how much of the “nose” of the fender is bent down which changes how rigid the fender is. It flaps around far more on the FS.Posted 4 years ago
supercarp – I have a reverb, hence thinking about it. I need to squeeze it into a small section of the post, between the clamp and the dropper bit, so it needs to have a narrow unobtrusive ‘neck’, firstly to fit round the post, and secondly, to not foul the barb and hose when it comes down. Might give it a punt, cheersPosted 4 years ago
Supercarp, yes, I can get it on the seatstay bridge at a push (Soul). I can also get a crud catcher on the post without any rubbers and the reverb clears it so that will be the winter solution, however that’s a few minutes with allen key, whereas the muckynutz appeals as just seconds with Velcro. I tried the but fender tonight and found it surprisingly effective..Posted 4 years agomangatankMember
All mudguards are hideous and make your bike look ridiculous and make you look like a mincing fop.
So with that out of the way, I think that -SKS do the best guards because of their patented quick release system:
It takes a second to put the rear guard on and crucially, a second to take the fugly thing off again. Even better, they generally work very well at stopping mud too. Here’s one defacing my bike. Annoyingly it works perfectly, so I’m forced to continue using it.
No other mudgaurd maker has a QR system like this. It’s brilliant.Posted 4 years agocorsairMember
I have a reverb stealth so no hose to worry about, and it’s raised a little above the seat clamp so the strap for the guard fits in above the clamp perfectly. It would probably be possible to strap it around the wider part of the reverb where the post comes out if you put some tape on the indented bit to flatten it out, but I haven’t tried it. The angle of the guard is adjustable by moving the clamping screw into different holes so you can tailor it to clear the wheel however high it ends up being mounted.
You need a 3rd dan black belt in origami.
That’s my problem. Only got as far as the pink belt then had to retire as a result of a particularly nasty paper cut incident.
I know, I know, one little mishap and I folded like a cheap suit. 😯Posted 4 years ago
If we’re going to go into mudguard fetishes, then here’re some of mine:
Crud-guard on the rear, cut-down THE fender on the front
Modified SKS Chromoplastic stays to fit around the disc calliper on my road bike
‘Zocchi Acerbis fender. Sadly long gone. Neatest front guard there is.
THE front fender, Mk1 Race-guard attached to pannier rack.
Personally, I think the neatest rear guard is the seatpost-monuted Mk1 Race Guard. The Original Crud-guards with the stays are a good shape, and the stays make them rigid, but they do occasionally catch on things.
But the best ‘guards I’ve seen by far are Epicyclo’s fatbike. I’m sure he won’t mind me linking:Posted 4 years ago
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