Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 49 total)
  • anyone running 1×9…………..??
  • ton
    Full Member

    if so do you use a front mech or something to stop the chain from dropping off when on the biggest rear sprocket.

    househusband
    Free Member

    Yes – just recently, and I’m interested in seeing what other folk do! Have bought a BBG bashguard from the US, and waiting for a Deda Dog Fang to arrive – other folk suggest an N-Gear Jump Stop.

    paule
    Free Member

    I run 1×9, with a home-made chainguide and a bashring. You can just about see the chaindevice on this photo:

    http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm129/paul_elliott/NS.jpg

    It’s an upside-down L shape if you look from the front. Attatched onto a lock bracket as it was the lightest I could find in the spares box.

    Been running it round the peaks and sheffield area for about 3 months now, and not dropped the chain once.

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    TandemJeremy
    Free Member

    Both me and Mrs TJ run 1×9 on our commuters – with unramped chainrings chains do not fall off. Shorten the chain right down so the tension is as high as possible.

    The chains also stays on hopping up and down kerbs and the like – but thats as rough as I have tried it.

    I see no point in running 1×9 if you need something to keep the cahin on – you might as well have a granny ring and a mech

    ton
    Full Member

    i have just taken a grinder to a front mech leaving just the back plate.
    then filled the gap with a little bit of tape rolled up so the plate is 1mm from the chain when it is in the big sprocket, seems ding dong.. 8)

    paule
    Free Member

    I see no point in running 1×9 if you need something to keep the cahin on – you might as well have a granny ring and a mech

    I’m running it as it makes the bike quieter, about a pound lighter, takes a load less cleaning/lubing and is 2 less things to go wrong.

    ton
    Full Member

    i’m running it cos i want to.
    just like you want to ride a tandem teej……….. 8)

    mamadirt
    Free Member

    Yep – I use a DMR hinged clamp, DMR, MRP or Blackspire roller (think I’ve tried them all over the years), cut down spacer from the middle of an old DCD (remember them?) and bolt (small enough to fit the hinged clamp and long enough to go through the roller) from ebay – can’t remember the size but I have loads of spares if anyone needs one. Does the job on all but the rootiest/rockiest d/hs though as the bolt is quite thin it does bend easily.

    Older pic of a filed down version on my Stinky but you get the idea . . .

    james
    Free Member

    Yes, with no front mech, bash ring, jumpstop, chain device or anything else

    Using a Thorn unramped (from SJS cycles) chainring, with the chain shortened (by the usual biggest rings + pair of links) and it hasn’t dropped the chain once. The chainring is fat enough that you can use triple chainring bolts/nuts and not have to bother with narrow ones or spacers

    davey_clayton
    Free Member

    Funny enough I just put gears on my hardtail today but there were no stops for a front mech. Will probably stick a chain device on. I think anything that gets used seriously off road will wang the chain about so much it’s bound to come off, and you can only shorten it so much.

    I tried running 1×9 on my heckler when I first built it up, the chain came off all the time, and 2 failed attempts at chainguides later I caved in and bought a triple. So much for simplicity. Annoyingly you lose the chain more when you’re descending because it will be wanging about more anyway, and because you’ll be on the smallest sprocket meaning it’s under less tension.

    racing_ralph
    Free Member

    paule – Member

    I see no point in running 1×9 if you need something to keep the cahin on – you might as well have a granny ring and a mech

    I’m running it as it makes the bike quieter, about a pound lighter, takes a load less cleaning/lubing and is 2 less things to go wrong.

    How does it make your bike 1lb lighter?

    Keva
    Free Member

    yep. N-Gear jump stop and bashguard works perfectly. Run it over loads of ruff stuff without problems.

    1×9 rocks.

    Kev

    paule
    Free Member

    No front shifter, so that’s about 100g. No inner ring, another 60g, no front mech, another 200g. Bike uses full length cables, so that’s another 50g. My device weighs about 50g. Actually saves about 350g so more like 3/4lb now I’ve added it up!

    racing_ralph
    Free Member

    crikey

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    only thing i found that worked was a propper chain device, preferably expensive.

    My DMR one would bend/jam at just the wrong moment on a climb (say you wanted to ratchet your pedals before hopping up a step) the thin steel plates just couldnt cope.

    The MRP which replaced it (system 3) although costing twice as much never dropped the chain once, never worked loose, the bolts didnt round off, the bearings didnt sieze.

    Tried the fakie front mech designs as well. They reduce the number of derreilments, but next time i go ingle ring i’ll getting one of the e-13 bashguard-less guides (LG-1?)

    Duane…
    Free Member

    1×9 with an e.13 LG1 chaindevice here.

    benjag
    Free Member

    I was using 1×9 with a front mech to keep the chain on, today was my first ride in 2 yrs with a granny ring and I was very glad of it grinding up rushup/mt famine and jacobs today!

    Garry_Lager
    Full Member

    I’d run 1×9 on all my bikes in an ideal world. Keeping the chain on, though, means it’s often less hassle just to go with the front derailleur and run a double up front. DMR make a rinky-dink chain holder-on-er that is cheap and cheerful. Will fit frames that don’t have a swing arm in the way.

    I have a 1×9 set-up on my gemini with an e13 chain device like Duane which is the perfect solution, but it’s expensive. Ran me nearly 100 quid for backplate and chain device IIRC.

    For a big bike like the gemini, it’s worth paying attention to the rear cluster when running 1×9. I have a small DH style one on at the moment, think it goes up to 28, and it’s tough work on the hills. It wouldn’t be a real problem on a XC bike but you notice it on the bigger bikes. I’ve just bought a 32 cassette that should sort that issue out.

    rs
    Free Member

    tried it with no device at first, fine for commuting but chain kept falling off proper mountain biking, have a gamut chain guide now and no problems so far.

    james
    Free Member

    “tried running 1×9 on my heckler when I first built it up, the chain came off all the time”

    Were you using a ‘normal’ chainring though? Ie from a double or triple chainset. They’re designed to derail the chain with ease to aid gear changing.

    An unramped chainring has much longer teeth and no side ramps for shifting and since swapping to one on my 1×9 setup it doesn’t fall off (unlike when I ran it with a ramped chainring)

    willej
    Full Member
    dr_adams
    Free Member

    I am also a little confused? I don’t see the advantage? I have a single speed and sometimes i do wish it had a few gears at the rear but that to me would defeat the point as my single speed is about as being as basic and cheap as poss, so i can take it to the shops and not need a massive lock, would think a decent cassette and rear mech would double the worth of my bike…

    Clink
    Full Member

    I ran Soul as 1×9 for a year. Got me up all the hills, coped better with mud, lighter. Less faff. I liked it.

    bonesetter
    Free Member

    I’ve ran 1×9 for the past few years with nothing and have NEVER dropped a chain

    As has been said run a short chain and a short rear mech and you should be fine

    Garry_Lager
    Full Member

    I am also a little confused? I don’t see the advantage? I have a single speed and sometimes i do wish it had a few gears at the rear but that to me would defeat the point as my single speed is about as being as basic and cheap as poss, so i can take it to the shops and not need a massive lock, would think a decent cassette and rear mech would double the worth of my bike…

    It’s just a recognition that 1×9 gives you all the ratios you need on a typical mountain bike ride in the UK, so why run a triple?

    Maybe it’s from riding SS for a long time, but I notice the redundancy of 27 gears, particularly at the lower end – the granny is worthless for the type of riding I do in the UK. Unlike SS, 1×9 doesn’t have the simplicity of operation, but if people are saying that all it takes is a short chain and an unramped chainring, then that’s pretty straightforward.

    ton
    Full Member

    the reason i have done it is
    i never use the big ring, i roll descents.
    i only ever use the granny when i am in the largest rear sprocket. i can walk as fast as using this.
    so it seemed common sense.
    i am too heavy and not strong enough to use a ss for most of the riding i do.

    simple solution 1×9……….. 8)

    TandemJeremy
    Free Member

    Garry_Lager – Member

    It’s just a recognition that 1×9 gives you all the ratios you need on a typical mountain bike ride in the UK, so why run a triple?

    Depends on where you live – the riding I do I need both a 22 granny ring and a 36 middle – that gives be the ability to do long steep climbs as well as being able to spin up to high 20s MPH

    james
    Free Member

    “I don’t see the advantage? I have a single speed”

    See it as an intermediate step (of possibly many) to SSing the bike. It stops you from being so lazy to drop into granny on climbs, and stops you from burning out in the big ring saving it for the middle ring climb. Once it becomes a too easy range of gears for the riding you ride the bike on you could get a smaller range casette, bigger chainring, or/before loosing everything and going SS.
    Thats my idea anyway. Whether I’ll ever get fit enought to be able to SS for my local riding is another matter, especially on gloopy winter muddy climbs
    The FS is staying 27spd for all round versatility though

    “run a short chain and a short rear mech and you should be fine”
    I’m running a long cage mech. With a chain shortened by the ‘proper’ method, it uses its most in-tension range of tension anyway. If anything because the cage is further forward and in more tension more of the time than a short cage one it would be better?
    I run it so when I sometimes put it back to 27 speed I don’t have to faff with the rear mech at all

    dr_adams
    Free Member

    thank you for the various responses i do feel honestly enlightened!

    davey_clayton
    Free Member

    “tried running 1×9 on my heckler when I first built it up, the chain came off all the time”

    “Were you using a ‘normal’ chainring though? Ie from a double or triple chainset. They’re designed to derail the chain with ease to aid gear changing.”

    No, using an E13 g-ring.

    james
    Free Member

    Fair enough

    carlphillips
    Free Member

    What rings would people recommend then for this set up..?

    paule
    Free Member

    Currently running a 33 up front, with 11-32 cassette at the back. When they wear out, I’ll probably widen the range a touch by going for an 11-34 and possibly a 32 chainring as they’re cheaper/easier to find.

    carlphillips
    Free Member

    is it ok to run a ss ring up front then or is it just a ring with no shifting ramps (where to buy then?)

    james
    Free Member

    “ss ring up front then or is it just a ring with no shifting ramps”

    Is it not the same thing? Make sure its not so wide a 9 spd chain won’t fit onto it (how wide is a SS specific chainring or chain?)

    9spd compatible, unramped chainrings. the 34T and 36T are cheaper than the 32T though

    SidKillerest
    Free Member

    Got a trailstar, Running 36t up front, 11-32 out back, with blackspire chain device & bash. Can get a bit noisy if its REALLY muddy, but without it the chain would be off in an instant on even mildly bumpy descents. Do occasionally miss the granny ring, but never really miss the big ring. Took it up the chase today, wondered why more people don’t use 1×9 round places like that.

    aw
    Free Member

    I think SS is the way to go, you soon get used to it and if the hill is too steep then get off and walk and if the down is too fast – coast 😉

    davidtaylforth
    Free Member

    I run 1×9 with a 32 tooth ring at the front and a 28/11 cassette & road mech at the back. I did run SS for a bit but hated it because some of the hills are big in the lake district and I also ride on the road quite a bit so SS was far too slow.

    I use an e13 srs and it does the job well, never dropped a chain. Before this I had a blackspire somethingorother and it was shit on a hardtail and dropped the chain all the time.

    I would definitely get a chain guide if you plan on riding quickly down rocky hills, otherwise your chain will fall off regularly.

    Ive never had a problem getting up any hills, its just harder work than a 27 speed bike.

    james
    Free Member

    “if the hill is too steep then get off and walk and if the down is too fast – coast”

    I’d really rather not
    For my liking, that would consitute too much of my bike riding
    When I try leaving my bike in a roughly SS gear to see what its like, I start to get bad knee and backpain

    Surely SS makes slow speed techy stuff a lot harder too?

    davidtaylforth
    Free Member

    Im not sure why xc chainsets still have the granny ring anyway. If your riding an xc bike you can usually power your way up any climb in the middle ring without a problem. I think the granny ring is for lazy people.

    So if you arent lazy then you dont need the granny ring, and if you dont ride on the road then you dont need the big ring, therefore 1×9 is all you need.

Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 49 total)

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