I think you get a massive sprue with about 4 different swingarms and 7 different shocks on it

thepodge yes thats exactly what we are saying. Both ends if it’s a post 2016 83mm BB GeoMetron. Front end for pre-2016 versions.

Northwind,perhaps a slight exaggeration.

The upside is if you pay your £200 refundable demo cost you can try any or all the combo’s before you buy.
Different travel – shock change
Different/combined wheel size – fork change.
Chainstay length is now adjustable by 5mm with a chip.

TBH it’s all a huge advantage ime- sure, it’s confusing for punters but this isn’t the sort of bike you expect to just read a bikeradar review then google for the best online price, so having to work through choice shouldn’t really be a downside. But being able to evolve such an expensive bike, that’s really something. It’s like what we do with bushings, anglesets etc (and yeah shock length and wheels and going up and down sizes), but done properly, with resources. All very cool.

Chainline

Have you played around with running the 155mm travel with a 350mm BB height running 29 back and front.

thanks

BlakeC. Hehe. That was actually my next job having done it with the 170mm and been so happy with it.
Although on different terrain and after a bit more time on 29 version.
i was going to test the 155mm setup like that this weekend and to check setup and config.

I’d like to try it 170/170 too but as CP pointed out I’d need to use the non ebike fork, I can run the 40 as a 170mm 29 in the summer as no mudguard isn’t so bad, it’s fine with a MM. More clearance still with a Minion. Wonder if a Shorty has plenty of clearance…hmmm.
I miss the 40 and I’ve got adjustable clamps so can do the 29 with different offset tests…mwahahahaja
One thing at a time. I’ll test 155mm with 350mm BB height.

Shakedown ride pics.

[/url]IMG_1100 by Phil, on Flickr[/img]

[/url]IMG_1112 by Phil, on Flickr[/img]

Watch out for the pebbles 😛

yeah and the super loose surface over hard on the corners on lower cliff…an interesting first ride shakedown on a bike you want to be driving the front on for a young girl….

https://postimg.org/image/8aacac4ov/

What link do i use from postimage.org?

Right-click the image and “Copy Image Address”

New set of stans flows on the way.
Cheers

Did you swap out the chainstay/swingarm for some reason?

Going back to the 29/650 in the same frame thing if we don’t mind.

One of the reasons I like (or thought I liked) 29ers is the larger bb drop and the stability / confidence this brings. Wouldn’t you lose this with a Geometron otherwise the bb would be too low with 650 wheels?

The chainstay was changed to a 450mm to give a bit more clearance and slightly longer wheel base.
The BB is at 347mm and I like it, it handles amazingly well for what I like. You do need to be slightly more forceful with it, but Im 6’2 and 94kg so I feels more in proportion for me, if that’s true or not I don’t know.

thepodge

There is no need for additional stability with a GeoMetron! It’s back to that sum of the parts thing.

When swopping between 29 full or 29/27.5 or the hybrid I am adjusting the BB to suit using the shock chip or offset bushes or a combo of both to get what I’m after. this creates some adjustments to the HA and SA but entirely within desired limits on a GeoMetron due to the already very steep SA.

I had previously found when lowing the BB/big BB drop on the 29’s it created too much side to side stability in my early designs unless superlight Carbon wheels were used and even then I found you could go too low.
I didn’t need that much stability with a GeoMetron for other reasons (HA, WB) and it just hindered (for my style) rapid cornering in back to back bermed corners for example the like you find at BPW and such. I found I needed to use more hips to get it turned. LEss of an issue for a bigger or more forceful bloke e.g. A Steve Jones.

Chris initially tried it with the higher BB and crashed so decided it wasn’t for him, but he has since tried it on a few other tracks and liked it.

I was running 340mm with the 29 wheels and 335-338mm with the 27.5 and 27.5/29

The hybrid is different again with a different axis for turning on and a different turn radius front vs rear.

I put the 29 up to 350mm (I suggested to CP this would be preferable with the 29) which creates a -20mm drop rather than the -30mm (or the -17mm of the 27.5 don’t know what you’d say about the hybrid but it feels really nice!)and I find it transforms the feel/steering of the bike. This is achieved through either using the 216mm shcok in the 222 position OR the 222 shock in 222 but with two offset bushes.
I think I’ve posted the angles here before, all using a 160mm 29er E-bike fork and a Stans Bravo with a MM or Shorty and a Bravo/Morso rear combo.

When I run hybrid (Still my preferred set up, just steers and carves so great and lighter un spung on the rear) I run it in the correct shock position for whichever shock and with one offset bush to give the 340mm BB height.

I’m not using the 27.5 front at the moment as rather liking the 29 steering at these HA’s and offsets. It seems a sweet combination of between HA/trail/flop.

I can’t say its a definite ‘advantage’ it’s just really nice.

Have I overcomplicated it?

I like that Paul J. Looks clean. I like the raw CS with black frame.

That chainline was what paul shep had kicking about at mojo, but I do agree I’d be keen for a full raw swing arm and black front triangle.

It’s a bit of a test platform for a future custom from mojo for myself.

Chainline, it wouldn’t be possible to lower the BB but not slacken the SA any more? I had wondered lowering the forks to 170 or 160 then an angle set along with high flip chip?

Chainline – with the coil G13 conversion what happens to the handling? I assume the BB is higher which will clearly have an effect but is it noticeable?

Chainline, thanks for that. When I moved to 29 I also went significantly slacker and longer so I’m maybe over was giving too much bias towards the bb drop.

I’ve not tried it Gotama. I think the BB should be maintained. When we have discussed the mod the proposal was to use the space created by the chip in low (which would normally drop the bb and slacken the SA/HA) to add the additional stroke given the same length shock.

Mojo are at Ard Rock over the weekend with it and I may pop up for a day with the NSL as I’ve the only built up one..

For me, this mod with a -2 angleset would bring the G13 in that spec to a slightly lighter (only very slightly shorter travel) version of the G16 in short travel mode with a fork bush maintenance friendly but still super slack HA. Sounds good to me.

I need to get a shock in…

Interesting. I’ve only ever run mine in low, might pop it into high at some point and see how it rides.

It just feels a touch taller and a teeny touch longer. as mentioned, with the angleset it will be ‘corrected’.

New set of stans flows on the way.

I was thinking that Crest might be on borrowed time…

I would be very tempted by the 170mm 29er, the G13 is quicker for me on a lot of stuff but nowhere near as forgiving as the original 27.5 Geometron.

Chris rode with a Crest front for ages without problems. A boost one should be stronger.

Shandy, I found similar for my old body on rougher stuff. obviosuly 155mm std GeoMetron also more. Maybe trying the 148mm rear G13 and 150mm up front would get you to the right place.

Anyone get to ArdRock and demo a GeoMetron or the G13 LT?

With Eurobike at the end of the month I wonder if Nicolai are due to bring out any more models or is it all about the new eboxx and xc frame?

I’d still love a 27.5 G13 (or even 120mm rear) prob with 140mm forks up front and 2.6 tyres. Nice short travel flickable bike with the stability the long wheel base provides.

It would be ace but don’t fancy the custom upcharge cost to get one

A few people have said they’d like short travel Geometrons but Chainline has said they can make the big bikes feel like short ones. Chris Porter also tells a story of giving an early Geometron to an xc racer and lying about the travel, he thought it had 40mm less front and rear and was raving about how good it was.

I still think I’d go for the Saturn with Geometron inspired geometry tweaks.

You have to be careful of disaggregating suspension curves and travel.

Thing to do is try a GeoMetron with 155/160mm setup but after a request to CP for a bike that rides like a 130m/140mm bike.

Short stroking a rear shock and a front fork is well within Chris’s capabilities and the Geometry remains correct.

You could then back to back against a ful travel bike configured to feel in a way you like, which I think is much more what you’d prefer rather than being as crude as X or Y travel.

My G13 is now rocking a -2 degree angleset.

Next addition to the bike will be the LT conversion. I do regret not ordering a G16 given how I am using the bike though.

I think there might be a misconception that people want a 180/170/160mm travel bike irrespective of if it can be set up to feel like a 120-130mm travel bike.

Being over 6 foot I’d quite like a nice long reach but I actually would quite like a 120mm rear travel bike (140mm front ideally). I’d like the edges to be taken of rough ground so you still have to pick lines, that’s fun, rather than 170mm which obliterates objects in its path.

Rik, have you looked at the Bird Aeris 120? The XL has a 500mm seat tube and 517mm reach.

Another option would be to see if you can put a longer eye to eye shock on the G13 to raise the BB so it can be used with 27.5 wheels, or get a 200×50 custom shock for a G16 and use it with a shorter travel but 29 fork to maintain the A2C.

Anyone get to ArdRock and demo a GeoMetron or the G13 LT?

What rear travel is the G13 LT ?

148mm. Which is very close to a G16 155mm 😉

Was out on the G16 and the hacked G13 at the weekend in Hebden. Angles on a -2 G13 are the same as 29er G15 within 0.5deg HA, except BB is lower in low.

Rick, sounds to me like a G13 set up progressive and with 140mm front (pretty much as mine is, max spacers in rear and 140mm 36) and with -2 would be right up your street.

Help required, I would like a 29 geometron but not a standard g13, what are my other options here. A g16 with 29 wheels (bb height,angles)? I am 6ft 6′ and 17 stone. What would be recommended

Cheers

Bigmagoo. I am similar height to you and ordered a mojo g16 XXL to run 29 wheels. Bb height and angles will need to weight until it arrives and is built. But I am expecting something similar to what chainline has already posted

Blakec , happy days! I would love to hear how it works out for you . I
realise that there is talk else where on this forum about the mojo g16
and 29 wheels ,but not on a xl/xxl as far as I know (will read through again). What sort of time for a xl/xxl frame from mojo.

Bigmagoo Mojo usually have stock, but I’ll check. angles will be exactly the same as I have posted per each config if you use my recommended BB height but that’s within your gift you might prefer it higher or lower.

You can read across from my Longest to the XL and XXL

If you do want one then a test with Mojo at BPW or similar is a no brainer as the cost just gets taken off the frame and you get exactly the setup you want off the bat.

At your height I’d say you should try both XL and XXL to see which you prefer as before really I think your riding style makes a difference. The natural suggestion would be the XXL.

I think I’d probably recommend the e-bike 36 fork for someone of your size too for the added stiffness.

Bacially you’re looking at a 62 deg HA,~ 76.5 SA and ~350mm bb height (depending on tyres) for the 155mm version and similar for the 170mm with 2 offset bushes but slightly slacker HA and SA.

Right….

I’ve sold my DH bike and my every day hardtail is in bits. I need a bike and I’m looking at the Geometron again. I want something for slogging around the Peak all day and occasional uplift days. Plus I want something I can take to Whistler next year without kicking myself for selling the DH bike.

I’m an ex downhiller who loves it fast and rough but I’m trying to embrace pedalling. I’ve recently moved to Sheffield and just started exploring the Peak District. This is why I think I might be better off on something lighter and more sprightly. But then I’d feel like I needed another bike for when I want to get ‘gnarly’ etc.

I don’t want to mess around with angle headsets and offset bushings and stuff. I want all those decisions made for me! Is anyone riding a ‘normal’ off the shelf G16 without any extra mods?

Can anyone tell me why I shouldn’t buy one? I haven’t read a bad word about them and I’m getting suspicious. I want to know what the downsides are. Why should I not just buy the new Enduro 29?

Anyone know who the Sheffield Geometron rider is? I’ve seen it on the move at high speed and couldn’t grab him for a closer look!