Anyone installed the OneupComponents 42t ring?
I’ll start out by saying I’ve fitted, and indexed probably over 50 cassettes, so… I *shouldn’t* be a moron.
I’ve got my 42t OneUpComponents cassette ring, a new Shimano 11-36 cassette, and a new SRAM 10sp chain.
It’s a PITA.
I can’t get it set up without when shifting into the 42t ring that shifting back down will actually move the chain off the ring. It’s as if there’s not enough spring tension in the mech to pull it off the ring.
I’ve tried the with a different chain, and now just re-indexed without the ring installed (plus the spacers). And it’s shifting fine, so cassette+chain = OK.
I’m thinking its down to the B-screw needing to be out so far that the chain loses tension, and can’t drop down a gear.
Anyone installed theirs OK?
I’ve got a SRAM X9 Type 2 rear mech, Works Component thick thin 32t, and Shimano XT 11-36, removed 17t and spacer, then put two spacers at the back of the cassette – as mine is a MY13.
Cheers, I’m going insane.
RicksPosted 4 years agoKarl33toMember
Be careful with winding out the b-limit on a Sram mech, you’ll find that it only rests against the thin edge of a metal plate and if you ride it hard enough it will eventually work it’s way past the plate and bend the screw.Posted 4 years ago
Totalled two mech’s this way last year, nothing to do with a 42t though I’m afraid.
The Pinkbike install is on a Shimano mech, which has a pretty short B screw, so it needs winding all the way in – or actually in some cases turning around.
I’ve had some success now, it definitely is b-limit sensitive, too high and the spring hasn’t enough force to bring the chain back down, too low and the chain binds.
I’ve got a happy’ish medium, when I can shift up, and then back down by shifting twice. That’s pretty poor, but I’m going to keep playing.
What would help I think, is a couple of extra links on the chain. However, with a 11t ring at the back, it will be rubbing against the mech and the chain will be too slack.
Be interested to see how others with SRAM mechs have done. Maybe I need an EBB 😉 (actually I reckon that would help!)Posted 4 years agoBearBackMember
you’ll need to run the B-tension screw almost all the way in for Shimano and for some SRAM derailleurs, you may need to remove the plastic thread-locker washer below the screw so you can run the screw in another few millimeters
that was to what I was referring.
I’ve see issues where the ‘worn’ sram mech will come close to being in a line rather than having any kind of angle.. the spring tension isn’t enough to bring the knuckle out of this straight line position.
Does that make sense with what you are seeing?
‘worn’ being the issue as the pivot has play/binding
solution we had to get that biek indexing was to set the limit to remove teh largest sprocket to prevent the mech getting itself into a straight line.
Posted 4 years ago
I’m referringteh teh pivot where his thumb is.. and teh spring being unable to overcoem moving that pivot up and forwardsrobarnoldMember
I had the same issues with a General Lee adaptor last year. It drove me so insane in the end I sold it on here and now put up with a regular 11-36 cassette and just pedal harder.
The thing that I worked out in the end is that unfortunately regular 10 speed mechs just aren’t meant to cater for a 42t gear. The original design of the mech is such that when the b-tension is so far in that it clears the 42t cog, it is picking up so ‘late’ on the cog that the chain struggles to catch on the next gear up. If you decrease the b-tension the top jockey wheel just catches the biggest cog and the whole thing is at risk of tying itself in a knot.
The SRAM 11 speed mechs move in a different manner to older mechs which thrusts the top jockey wheel forward at the top end of the cassette, this allows it to clear the cog and pick up the next gear.
Unfortunately 10 speed mechs aren’t made for the job. I’ll not be messing about with a botched set up again but waiting until the 11 speed wide range cassettes and mechs become more affordablePosted 4 years ago
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