2013 ideally, but 2012 will do.

Tempted by the AM or SX, but unsure of sizing.

I’m pretty much dead on 6ft. Commencal site says large is for 5.10 to 6.2. However, a mate who is 6.4 has ridden the 2013s, and says the medium was fun for him, although maybe a little short for XC, so for someone my height it would be a good size.

I’ve not got the opportunity to test ride one (unless someone in Edinburgh has one..), I rode a large 2012 ages ago but can’t remember how it was.

Don’t want to buy a medium and find it cramped for longer XC rides, but likewise don’t want to buy a large and feel too stretched out on jumpy stuff.

FWIW, I’ve always ridden fairly small/chuckable bikes, but that doesn’t mean they’re best for me I guess…

I’m ‘just’ over 6ft. I have a couple of riding buddies with them, one on a M & the other an L.

The M felt really small. I couldn’t ride it. I have no idea how your mate at 6’4″ rode one, he must have looked like an ape on a BMX.

The large felt good for me size wise.

Looking on the Commencal site, the 2012 & 2013 bikes are identical numbers.

Thanks for the info. Pardon ignorance, but where did you find the 2012 numbers on their site?

I believe Unklehomer has one, dunno if he’s managed to get it built up though… He’s a giant though, if that helps!

Numbers here: http://www.commencal-store.co.uk/PBSCProduct.asp?ItmID=10252647

Yeah, seen 2013 numbers, but not the 2012 ones on their site?

There’s this;
http://www.sicklines.com/2011/07/01/2012-commencal-meta-am/

But it doesn’t have the wheelbase.

I’m 5’7″ and the medium is spot on for me, you Def need a large.

OK, sounds like a large it is, thanks. Another thing that was on my mind was that, according to the above link, on the 2013 the seattube is 10mm taller, and the effective toptube is 12mm longer, but guess that’s not too much.

Sorry I sent the wrong link, but if you go into the sale section they have some 2012 frames there with the geometry numbers (thought they were the same with a cursory glance over them?)

2012 AM frames look much nicer!

Ah yeah, the numbers do match up. Guessing the Sicklines numbers are wrong then.

What do you prefer about the 2012, just the colour (as I’m guessing that;s the only difference..)?

Yes, the paint/graphics 🙂

One of the bikes I mentioned is the 2013 one, the graphics just look a bit of a mess comapared to the 2012 bike. My mate is annoyed as he thinks the same!!

Ah fair enough. I quite like the 2013, it’s very loud, but just means you have to do more skids and wheelies to get away with it 😛

Your local dealer might be able to sort you out a discount. 😉

Cheers, ended up ordering a large, at a very good price 🙂

Definitely did the righ thing Duane, medium would be too small, at 5’10” it’s better than my old meta5 but if I was any bigger definitely be a large
It’s a great bike btw, far better in my opinion than the old meta,has made my hardtail redundant it climbs so well

Excellent, thanks.

Do you have any problems with the cables rattling inside the tubes? If so, how did you deal with it?

Yeah, they rattle like a pig inside. It’s easy to stop though. Some people have done some long & convoluted thing of putting a soft rubber hose over the cable outers to deaden the sounds etc.

I just did what I had done with my Summum. When the cables are in, pull them tight from the HT end, keep them at a tension & ziptie tight as you can round the cable at the point where it goes into the frame.

No noise at all. The bike is probably the quietest I have ever ridden.

Glad you got sorted in the end. Did you end up going for 2012 or 2013?

^ what hobnob says
Reverb cable still rattles a bit but not as bad as used to

ST, 2013.

Do the zipties not just slip up the cable? Or do you mean realllyyy tight?

I was thinking of putting them pretty tight, but two at each end, for more friction, but would be interested to hear other peoples’s experiences.

Found the act of actually routing them a horrific PITA, hope I never have to change my brakes… though I learned some lessons so should be easier nect time…

Do them really tight, double loop & pliers, they won’t move.

Sorry for stupidity, what do you mean by double loop?

Oh and while I have some Meta owners around 😛 Is this the right type of BB?

I was just rushing from your other thread to warn you about this, yes it is, if you have a hacksaw, otherwise you need a dura ace one which is just cups no sleeve. You don’t need the sleeve as the BB shell is machined from one piece and has no holes, well two holes, for the BB but no other ones into the downtube etc. I went the hack saw route, works fine, no hack sawed edge come into contact with the crank spindle, is totally safe and fine. Iain1775 went down the dura route. Commie themselves provide the one you pictured with the frameset which unmodded, does not fit. (wouldn’t be a proper commencal if there wasn’t something stupid about it). CRC themselves, who import them and are where I bought mine, don’t seem to understand the complexity of it. But its all fine, so long as you know, hope that helps…

The reason I was coming to warn you is if not with shimano I don’t know if there are BBs that will fit.

Right OK, thanks for the info. So the sleeve is connected to one of the cups (so not like HT2 bearings where it is a friction fit into both cups)? Whereas the Dura ace is like standard HT2?

errrr, no, I’ve explained it badly, no sleeve at all, hacksaw is to remove part of the cups, because top of the shell protrudes into the cavity. Dura ones don’t have a sleeve at all, so don’t have that bit of plastic getting in the way.

Go here and zoom on the bb shell you’ll see the bit I mean, its solid and goes right the way across. Man from importer on the CommencalOwnersClub (useful site) swears its makes it loads stronger, seems plausable.

awesome bike though, just had a short ride on mine (not properly finished), hitting stainburn next week, can not wait.

EDIT: dura ace road is what I mean sorry, these will go in unmodded.

Righto, awesome, will get the Dura Ace ones ordered, save the hassle, cheers mate.

Can anyone confirm that the frame onlys come with a 142×12 axle? And is it a QR type?

I can’t confirm that at all. I bought the full frameset and still had to by a maxle seperate. I don’t fully understand rear axles so not sure, I bought a RS maxle, it worked. 😀

Frame is 142x12mm axle, not QR, you can’t use a normal QR wheel in it, you need a 12mm bolt through (also known as syntace x12) if you want a maxle cheapest place is bike discount.de (also for the durace bottom bracket)
I don’t think the maxle comes with frame (it didn’t in 2012)
Unclehomer is part correct I did get a Duraace but only because chain reaction paid for it, it’s still sat in shed unused, I just cut the cups of the same sort of BB you have pictured as UH explains (no hassle 30 seconds with hacksaw it only soft plastic)
Working fine 6 months later
You need to cut where the diameter reduces to leave to separate cups about 2cm deep that will look same as one in UH’s second link
Will become obvious when you hold the bb against the frame

Sorry, by QR, I meant a Maxle type deal, rather than a bolt up/through, not a standard 135mm QR skewer.

Jumping in on this thread to firstly say Thanks for all the info above as having just broken my meta 5 (just outside of warranty!) I’ve bought an AM frame and just looking at building it up with as many parts as possible from the 5.5 .
Quick question (probably first of many!) any one know the sizes for the bushes for the rear shock? 😕

They’re bigger than the Meta 5.5, pivot diameter has increased to M10x22 now.

You’ll also need the following;-
New press fit BB, (as mentioned above),
Hope tapered steerer adapter to convert your Std forks to tapered headtube,
New rear hub or adaptors to convert to 142×12,
New Fr mech, direct mount
New tapered headset

Cheers 100mphplus – Had most of the other parts ordered, was just the bearings I struggled on. Now ordered from TFT so should be built up soon 🙂