Any Dirty reiver veterans out there?
Do not use a road bike!
I cannot emphasise that enough – it is absolutely not a road biking course and your bike will die.
HT would be OK – probably a bit slower than a CX/gravel bike but certainly last time I did it there were plenty of people on HT. You can get away with some fairly slick tyres – some sort of low-resistance file tread would be fine.Posted 1 year agojohnnystormMember
1st time I did it on a rigid Ti 29er with 2.4″ X Kings and 2nd time on an Arkose with 40c Nanos. I was 20 mins faster on the 29er albeit was training more at that time. The route is varied enough that at any point a hardtail, cx bike, road bike or full susser would be the best option!
Pop some 2″ race kings on the Vagabond and you’ll have a happy medium.Posted 1 year ago
Im going to try and enter the dirty reiver for next year. Thinking my most suitable bike is my genesis vagabond. Thing is i built it with alfine 8 so concerned it may be a bit heavy. The other option is to rebuild it with slx 1×11 otherwise the n+1 negotiations will start…..and probably fail as got a rourkie on order at the mo and promised that would be the last bike 😕
Also have a hardtail and road bike but not sure they would be suitable. Any advice woyld be much appreciated.Posted 1 year agojonbaMember
I know a few fast guys who did it on CX bikes the first time. This year they were on their race hardtails. My knowledge of Kielder suggests this is wise. Gravel is loose term and some of the tracks theat I know well on Kielder contain are rough.
I wouldn’t rebuild your bike if you go down that route. Realistically how much lighter will it be?Posted 1 year ago
I’m definitely not a contender for the podium 😯 will just be happy to make it round within the cutoff to be honest.
Thanks for the tips, think Ill change the tyres on the vagabond and get some miles in. Was just a bit concerned about the alfine as I’ve heard there’s a fair bit of climbing.Posted 1 year ago
There is only one point in the entire route where i was at the point of having no gears left.
Its just as you re enter Engerland and its about 10 meters long and you could totally get up it with momentum if the couple infront don’t stop and start chatting about how hard it is…
Instead I just slid backwards still clipped in trying to stop myself going over the back 😀
I definitely wouldn’t pick a mountainbike but i’m an idiot and quite enjoyed the one descent where some bounce or thick tyres might be nice. If its what I had though i’d be happy taking it.Posted 1 year agojonnyboiMember
Done it twice on a CX with 40c tubeless tyres, better gearing and flares drops.
There’s 3500m of climbing so having the right gears and saving weight is important, there are places where it’s rough enough to benefit a HT but they are outweighed by the rest of the course.Posted 1 year agoBenHouldsworthMember
Ridden it in 40c Nanos and 1.95 Renegades, both on a hardtail, and was faster on Renegades by 2 hours.
The places I wished I had drop bars were the long exposed fireroads where there was a definite aero advantage but over 10-12 hours I’d ride the bike you’re most comfortable on.
I’m riding a rigid SS next year for what it’s worth.Posted 1 year ago
Great info and advice! I have middle of the road gearing range the alfine 8 (36t chainring with 16t sprocket on the back) so my main concern is how harsh the gradients are. I could always swap for the alivio groupset off my high latitude if need be or sell some bits and put slx 1×11 on it.Posted 1 year agocr3anmachin3Member
replying to an oldish post here but @moorsey72 how did you get on? I’m riding an Arkose Alfine 8 40T chainring and 19T sprocket and thinking about doing this event next year. Only issue I think I have is my wheels are not tubeless ready. So rather than facing an expensive wheelbuild I may just fill the tubes with stans and pack couple of tubes.Posted 5 days ago
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