Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 45 total)
  • Anti-seize for threaded BBs?
  • Kramer
    Free Member

    As the title, should I use anti-seize or normal grease for the threads of a BB?

    Wally
    Full Member

    nothing<normal grease<Copper Slip(anti-seize) IMO

    scotroutes
    Full Member

    What frame material? I’ll use grease unless it’s a Titanium frame, in which case it’s CopperSlip

    Kramer
    Free Member

    Aluminium

    Kramer
    Free Member

    I thought anti-seize, but as my last BB has seized in 7 months (Race Face Cinch, yeah I know…) I’m being doubly cautious.

    finbar
    Free Member

    Bit of both won’t do any harm.

    1
    coconut
    Free Member

    Very healthy application on normal grease will be fine. Put the grease in the threads inside the frame.

    honourablegeorge
    Full Member

    Have always used anti seize, as it’s usually an alu cup in a steel frame for me

    1
    takisawa2
    Full Member

    PBC/D is a thick grease we put in our nuclear assemblies. They come apart without any issues after 20 years so I figure my bike should be ok.

    dc1988
    Full Member

    I’ve always used copperslip and never had any issues

    1
    mick_r
    Full Member

    Grease is better than nothing.

    Shimano anti-seize is good.

    https://www.freewheel.co.uk/shimano-workshop-anti-seize-455-gram-tub-wsas1b0455?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwx-CyBhAqEiwAeOcTdcP5KSnMPzwYzNS_fbrchpwC1H_ehjjfwoPblsuPbHbZf3f0VEztBRoCQ-0QAvD_BwE

    Ideally not copper based if aluminium and steel are together as there can be galvanic issues.

    johnnystorm
    Full Member

    Surprised about the copaslip and galvanic corrosion as when I built up my Ti bike I used finishline anti seize (suitable for everything apparently) and it looks exactly like copaslip!

    https://www.finishlineusa.com/products/specialty-products/anti-seize-assembly-lubricant

    Fwiw, it’s always worked perfectly fine for me.

    1
    chrisdw
    Free Member

    Ive always used the Juice Lubes AAS Juice.

    https://juicelubes.com/aas-juice-aluminium-anti-seize-paste-aas-g1.html

    Ive taken BB’s out years later and its still got a nice layer of silver paste in there.

    RustyNissanPrairie
    Full Member

    Ceramic anti seize grease for me on BB’s and anything car tinkering related.

    1
    bikerevivesheffield
    Full Member

    Ptfe tape then Grease

    1
    jkomo
    Full Member

    Whichever one I haven’t lost in the garage.

    jeffl
    Full Member

    I’ve always used standard grease, from the big tub that is really old.

    Never had a BB seized.

    I do have coppaslip but for some reason never used it, not sure why. Shimano BB cups come with some sort of grey thread lock on from memory.

    nedrapier
    Full Member

    There’s always Marley’s Blue Slip n Slide. It’s not called that but now I’ve got it in my head I can’t get past it.

    Give me a minute…

    Kramer
    Free Member

    @bikerevivesheffield why the PTFE tape?

    1
    nedrapier
    Full Member

    Morgan Blue Aqua Paste.

    Super sticky, great barrier against water ingress. Made for stuff that doesn’t move: BB shells, headset cups, dropper post outers.  Not bearings, or slip n slides!

    nedrapier
    Full Member

    Shimano BB cups come with some sort of grey thread lock on from memory.

    Or flouro yellow. I’d trust Shimano’s goop scientists. I did just that last Thursday, actually, despite having the aqua paste on the shelf.

    bikerevivesheffield
    Full Member

    @kramer

    Seals threads from water ingress

    damascus
    Free Member

    No idea if I’m right but I tend to use copper slip if it has threads like threaded bb and bolts on bottle cages and mudgaurds and pannier racks etc and if no threads I use grease like headsets, seatposts etc.  If it’s carbon, then the special carbon grease stuff.

    So far it’s worked fine but I’m sure someone will tell me I’m wrong 😂

    Ptfe tape then Grease

    If the bottom bracket is the correct size and round then you shouldn’t need Ptfe tape and you shouldn’t be able to fit it if it’s the correct size. But I guess perfect bb sizes are rare so people have come up with solutions. If it’s not round then Ptfe could make it worse where it touches/doesn’t touch.

    However, if it’s oversized I can see the benefits of Ptfe tape but ive found my bearings go from the outside, not from the inside.  My frame has a drain hole for any water that gets in.

    But I haven’t tried it so I can’t really comment but it’s an interesting idea.

    misteralz
    Free Member

    Metallurgy or something. Sacrificial protection as well. Maybe. Reactance? It’s late and I’m tired. But yes, there’s a good reason for not using coppaslip on aluminium threads, or between dissimilar metals, or maybe both, and you’re supposed to use Molyslip instead. In reality it’s probably not going to matter too much, especially if we’re talking about GXP or Dub since they require bi-monthly changes anyway.

    susepic
    Full Member

    Lithium grease on the threads in the frame and then one turn of PTFE tape on the BB threads and in they go. And they (DUB!) come out again without fuss and still mostly clean even after a filthy winter. Only changed the DUB after 3700km and regreased only twice in that time

    Kramer
    Free Member

    I’m wondering if the anti-seize contributed to the short life span of my old bottom bracket?

    scotroutes
    Full Member

    I can’t see how any anti-sieze would get into the bearings, but then I don’t know how much you applied. Did you use a trowel?

    neilnevill
    Free Member

    always used copperslip on all my frames from steel to Au, Ti and Carbon. Never had one seize yet.  there is always a first time I guess.  I’d happily use a good old thick grease if no copperslip were to hand.

    1
    robertajobb
    Full Member

    PBC/D is a thick grease we put in our nuclear assemblies. They come apart without any issues after 20 years so I figure my bike should be ok

    Glow-in-the-dark, self-illuminating BBs.  I’m IN.

    andrewh
    Free Member

    I’ve always used standard grease, from the big tub that is really old.

    That’s the same stuff I use for everything. Castrol Multi-purpose, it’s been great for BBs.

    wordnumb
    Free Member

    There’s always going to be some sort of leverage involved once a BB has been used a couple of months. The specific grease is largely irrelevant.

    Northwind
    Full Member

    Yep, agree that it probably doesn’t matter. I guess the exception is if you throw the bike in a shed and bring it back out in 20 years and have to change the BB- the worst bike job I ever did was extracting an ancient shimano square taper from an old steel frame, it was pretty much welded in. And you never plan ahead for that of course.

    Mine all just get a little wipe of whatever grease comes to hand, probably some white waterproof stuff.

    1
    bigblackshed
    Full Member

    Anti seize paste. Copaslip if you want a brand name. It does what it says, grease is for lubrication.

    These are all aluminium BB cups in steel frames, except one, aluminium to aluminium. All came out with no bother at either on regular service or the one poor beater after forgetting about it for 13 years.

    Neb
    Full Member

    I’ve started using PTFE tape and grease which seems to work. I understood it prevents creaking and creates a better interface between cup and frame

    1
    timba
    Free Member

    I’m wondering if the anti-seize contributed to the short life span of my old bottom bracket?

    I can’t think how. If you apply it to the BB cup threads then it tends to squidge out as you screw the cup in. Wipe the excess away before you fit the cranks

    You can probably pack a bit more conventional grease into a new bearing before fitting. Sealed bearings tend to be underpacked because it suits faster machinery more than it does slow cadence cyclists

    The copper grease/aluminium frame thing is a theoretical problem that doesn’t happen IME. All that you need to do, practically, is isolate the two metals (frame and BB cup) so that water, especially salty water, is kept out of the gap and can’t conduct a galvanic reaction. Solid copper is a good conductor, copper suspended in grease much less so

    frogstomp
    Full Member

    Grease good, anti-seize better.

    I understood it prevents creaking

    Or causes it. If your frame and BB threads are within tolerance chances are the tape will just bunch up (especially as the BB threads are likely a much finer pitch than the plumbing threads the tape is intended for).

    Ah, and right on cue:

    Kramer
    Free Member

    Glow-in-the-dark, self-illuminating BBs.  I’m IN.

    Nice and warm too.

    Neb
    Full Member

    I understood it prevents creaking

    Or causes it. If your frame and BB threads are within tolerance chances are the tape will just bunch up (especially as the BB threads are likely a much finer pitch than the plumbing threads the tape is intended for).

    That’s an interesting take on it, I’ve not had any issues since I started using it, but that’s not to say it’s the perfect solution.

    mrauer
    Full Member

    Park Tool ASC-1 Anti-Seize is the best in my experience. Very durable, nice and thick paste, aluminium powder / grease mix, stays there for years and parts come off easily. Basically water- and soap-proof. I have used it at work and home for over 10 years, and nothing installed with it has stuck. Better than Shimano anti-seize.

    It will stain your clothes though and hardly comes off in the wash, either.

    https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/anti-seize-compound-asc-1

    Normally I would put anti-seize on any and all threads that do not need thread-lock compound, and are not next to a bearing, causing risk of bearing grease contamination. So any other threaded fastener gets it instead of regular grease.

Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 45 total)

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