Skipping that is…

Everything is new, everything except the rear mech I suppose but that seems fine.

Brand new cassette, chainring, chain, cable inner and outer.

Had problems with it not indexing initially so changed the cable inner/outer. I still have loads of issues with it sort of CRACK-CRACKING into place under load. Riding along it seems like it’s seated and running fine, then CRACK…

My mech isn’t new but seems straight. Any ideas anyone what to try?

Doing me nut in a bit now. 😕

Worn jockey wheels, bent rear mech or bent rear hanger, assuming everything else is completely fine.

I’ve had problems trying a road chain on a mountain bike – narrow wides really don’t like them. Are all your parts definitely for an MTB?

Yeah, defo all mtb.
I’ll have a look at the jockey wheels but can’t really see how they can make such a difference.

I’ve never had to replace jockey wheels in my life. Usually end up smashing mechs off with rocks or branches first… 😳

Stiff links?

As others said above. Stiff link,especially if using chain pin over a quick link. Maybe new chain is too long and lastly check jockey wheels or hanger.

You sure it’s not the freehub slipping?

Full suspension? Cable outer the correct length?

Stiff links?

This. Had the same issue on my wifes brand new MTB. Easy fix

Back pedal slowly and check for the rear mech bouncing on any stiff links.

Won’t be the jockey wheels. Could be a bent mech, but unlikely. Freehub is possible. Chain most likely.

So when the freehub slips, are you saying slipping on the actual splines or the pawls?
It just generally seems to run ‘lumpy’. Not what you’d expect from a brand new drivetrain…

On the pawls.
Ride the bike and get someone to ride behind you and watch the chain to see if it skips on the cassette.
Also look at the front ring while riding and see if it’s skipping there.
If it’s neither of these two it’ll be the freehub.
What hub is it?

It’s a Nukeproof generator. I changed the pawls I’d say about ten months ago…

A lot of damage can happen in ten months.

Yeah I suppose. I’ll check it all out thanks folks.

Yeah I suppose. I’ll check it all out thanks folks.

Brand new chain, brand new rear mech, brand new chainring, brand new cassette, brand new freehub, freehub pawls look ok to me.
Car park ride about I find that now and again putting power down, the drivetrain will sort of clunk or slip or crack, as if something is not engaging and then suddenly does.

As I say, the pawls look fine to me and the freehub itself is brand new.

When I rotate the cassette back one click and then turn it forward, there is sometimes an almost imperceptible click as if perhaps the pawls are not fully locked into the splines but as I say, almost not there..

Officially doing me nut(and wallet) in… 👿

I think you would be totally justified if you decide to buy a new bike.

Hope that helps. 🙂

eddiebaby – Member
I think you would be totally justified if you decide to buy a new bike.

Hope that helps.

Just spent the last half hour looking at new 160mm bikes as it happens… 😆

spacer missing from behind your cassette ?

Is the chain routed through the rear mech correctly?

Is there a stiff link?

If full sus, let all the air out of the rear shock and sit on the bike then make sure the cables are long enough.

If not then try a mate’s wheel.

Chain installed right? Some Shimano chains are one-sided and directional, 10 speed mostly I think. There should be stamped text and logos on the side facing out from the bike, if the outer links are flat and have no markings on then the chain’s on the wrong way round.

Is it actually slipping still or just making a noise?

Sounds like you have replaced all the obvious suspects but have you investigated your BB, could be that the bearings in here are worn/going which can often making a ‘cracking’ noise under load but be fine when just spinning.

Might be worth taking it off and spin it by hand to see if there is any bearing roughness.

unovolo – Member
Is it actually slipping still or just making a noise?

Does feel and sound like a slip. I’ve taken out the pawls and they seem ok to me but I think I’ll try replacing them too seeing as I’ve got a new freehub. The reviews of the pawls on crc suggest they’re made of cheese too.

If that doesn’t sort it, I’ll have to buy a brand new carbon enduroist bike…
😀

Grit inside the freehub I reckon. Strip it down, clean the bits and reassemble.

Chain threaded through the rear mech correctly, the right side of the small metal plate between the two jockey wheels …. and another vote for a mates back wheel to test your free hub against

Yeah chain is threaded right. I tried my spare dh wheel in there (who’s got a mate with the same wheel standard these days?!!) and it seems ok.
I had tried it previously but that was before I’d renewed the mech.

It’s always hard to replicate what happens on the trail but all things given, I think it’s only the pawls that can be guilty now. Little gets… 👿

Are you 100% sure it’s not a stiff link? Infinitely more likely than worn 10-month old pawls.

Sounds like it could be a cracked hub that is expanding when pressure is applied thus allowing the pawls to slip.

Either that or just worn saw teeth in the hub that the pawls push against.