Amazon Firestick power issue in van

So ive got a Amazon firestick in the van connected to my Alpine Halo 9in display

The firestick gets its power from a 12v to 5v convertor which has a max current of 3 amps with a max output of 15w and is connected to a piggyback fuse on a switched live in the fusebox

The firestick needs 1 amp to run (Van’s aftermarket USB ports put out 0.5 amps, hence using the convertor)

The firestick boots up and says loading then just reboots, ive double checked the firestick is ok by plugging it into a powerbank in the van and it works fine so it seems the issue is its not getting enough power from the van’s system

What’s this “converter” exactly?

Sounds like your 12V to 5V converter is faulty.

How stable is the vans feed?
I know my caravan 12v power supply wasn’t stable enough for the 4G wifi dongle thing i had. Added a regulator and all was good.

It worked fine on the 240v sockets, but didn’t want to block one of them permanently (as the van only has 3).

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-Charger-PowerDrive-Adapter-iPhone-Black/dp/B07PGT7LSR

?

This is the convertor https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09KN9N724?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Not looking for cig lighter plugs etc.. needs to be hidden and out of the way

A lot of those streaming sticks will draw huge amounts of current for the graphics hardware. Everything will be fine until the graphics gets turned on. If you can’t deliver enough power for that, they will brown out – only needs to be briefly – and crash/reboot.

Big capacitors to mitigate this cost $$$.

Look at all the threads about power supplies for a raspberry pi – they have similar problems (but it’s derived from a mobile chipset, so power draw is at the lower end).

I’m not a hardware engineer, but I have spent a reasonable amount of my time on this planet debugging boards that reboot due to shaky power supplies.

You’re insured for fire, yes?

More seriously,

That converter looks nasty and it’s hardly filled with reviews.

I’d also question what you’ve connected it to, is this ‘piggyback’ capable of providing the power you need in addition to what it’s already powering?  Are you ahead of or behind the fuse?  Is there an inline fuse for the converter?

This is the convertor https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09KN9N724?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Brave. And I say this only partially in jest.

I know any component can fail etc, but there is no situation where I would be wiring cheap electrical tat from amazon into a vehicle I care about.

Have a look to see what your local auto electrician can do/supply.

max current of 3 amps

Now, I’m no expert in electrickery but would be wondering if that is a max the adapter can handle based on the potential input.. and your input is perhaps not that? i.e. you are still trying to pull more current than can actually be provided and overloading the socket.

I would get Cougar’s suggested USB charger and plug it into a female socket. Something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/Magiin-Cigarette-Extension-Portable-Compressor/dp/B0787TXTSY/ref=sr_1_3?th=1

Use an in line USB power meter and check the draw. I find them really useful

you need one of these

also work on low power tvs – basically have a small battery inside to cope when the stick is drawing a bit more power.

or just whack a female ciggy socket in behind your screen, and put a half decent charger in there.

Was about to suggest a very similar thing to what @5lab suggested..

If the fire stick can’t draw enough additional power from the USB connector from the telly.. (a lot don’t as they are mostly designed for data transfer rather than powering a device)

It needs ‘mains power’ or one of these additional battery pack things that basically act like a trickle charger from a a low power USB port on the telly.

Doesn’t explain why your power converter cable isn’t working… But that’s a different subject, almost.

I’ve got a 12v TV in my van which is connected to the leisure battery (which has solar charging).

I dont have any issues with the firestick being powered via the TV USB port so not sure if that is an alternative option?

The convertor is connected to the fusebox via a 5a piggyback fuse, its using a slot that already contains a 5a fuse (cant remember what the other 5a fuse is powering but i remember it was something that isnt used often)

The convertor was bought from here and they have sold 100’s according to ebay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172980727576?_skw=dc+dc+converter+5v&itmmeta=01JA7P9NEF65FR8K9RNGQZ01X5&hash=item2846746f18:g:bdsAAOSwmBhaCMX2&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8Mxmj%2BiGvOveHXEBClPb29jBHuqMM9BeZaOTjd5MkmkL3zrtCiDtxJiZNn3mvEjgbWh3vGv7KlsACAw%2Bgrbcd173qHz%2FP%2B0EOGPxQ3FxnkD%2B07HtNpF0%2FMv2m2V%2Ftd1REdnJY9wyKg0%2BrLUZH8djcAk45xvlxzbAl1ELQxgv9kMScHSGAaenre5IkyQh2ay5ogL0Ul9EX68AemQUmP4HLXvpjD0U%2BbHVhFQzekSUDbkPDYcvLJMnVEZMvKwH0Q8UYPrc0SceWMYMmWcYXyyMns400YvdpL2ZR1%2FWvGq3Tr1h5ZEAjj12YWQXj7ElvFtt%2BA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6rXpvbRZA&var=471745492476

This is not for a TV, its connected to an Alpine Halo 9in display headunit, the van has basic van electrics, no inverters or 240 hook up etc….

cant remember what the other 5a fuse is powering

Well, I’m filled with confidence.

The convertor was bought from here and they have sold 100’s according to ebay

Well, I’m filled with confidence.

Stop buying random cheap Far Eastern shite off ebay and go see an auto-electrician.

 its connected to an Alpine Halo 9in display headunit

This should go without saying I know but, please tell me you’re not watching telly whilst you’re driving.  Even if you aren’t, that configuration is likely illegal if it’s able to be visible to a driver whilst in motion.