Hi Mosey,
I have a brand new, unused, set of Fox Vanilla RL 140mm forks – these ones:

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/components/forks-suspension/product/review-fox-racing-shox-32-vanilla-140-rl-10-37494/

If you’re still after some QR forks?

I’m not sure of the steerer length because I’m sat in work, but I can check later if you’re interested. They defo should be long enough though.

Bargain at £300 posted!

Cheers,
James

Hi Minty I’m opting for a U-turn fork but thanks very much for the offer.

MBR magazine will tell you that you absolutely have to have a 15 or 20 mm through axle as otherwise your front wheel will fall out and you’ll die. A bit like when they said v-brakes were unsafe when one bike in a test still had them or that square taper cranks will round the tapers and fall off.

I’m just building a new Cove Stiffee frame and I’m using some QR Fox Float 130 forks from a few years ago and I’m sure they’ll be up to the job, I remember the factory GT riders riding the world 4-cross on Rockshox Judy 100s with QR’s and they never had issues.

I noticed the difference in stiffness going from 32mm QR forks to 36mm 20mm forks, but I think alot of that is down to the larger stanctions and the stiffness of the frame (I’d gone from an old Intense Tracer to a 6″ travel Rocky Mountain Slayer). I’m quite happy with the QR forks for my hardtail, the 15 or 20 mm forks just look a bit tricker, but I’m not sure the performance benefit outways the cost.

I got a pair of TALAS 140mm 15mm after having ridden 9mm QR for years. I did notice the difference, was stiffer, smoother etc. I also noticed the difference this year when I got a new bike with 100mm 9mm QR DT Swiss which apart from on droppy stuff were even more controlled than the now 3yr old TALAS 15mm.

I’d put 15mm in the “nice to have” box rather than “must”, are a bunch of other upgrades I’d make to a bike before I started worrying about the shape of my front dropouts.

Gachet – your on the money mate – if mags think qrs and v brakes are unsafe they wantto be getting a new mechanic tbh …. Consumer manipulation at its best !

I only went 20mm on my dh bike because at the time 150mm++ forks only came in 20mm

My DX v brake on the back of my Kona is more powerful than my hydraulic discs on the other bike.

Like others have highlighted, just ride, it all works.

Was everyone crashing all the time without disc brakes and bolt through forks? I think not. Well, I was, but then I still do. 🙂

I really don’t understand how people can comment they’ve noticed no increase in stiffness when changing to bolt through forks from QR. The 20mm revelations I’m using now are loads stiffer than the sets of QR revelations I used to own. I’m convinced one of the only reasons people started riding with 6″ travel forks was because the (20mm) fox 36s and the like felt so amazing. I used to have 36’s on a hartail. They’ve since been shelved, there really is no need for 160mm of travel on a hartail when 140mm can be (almost) as good.

I would agree that it’s not worth waiting though. Buy some second hand forks and sell them without making a loss in a few months time when you can afford to change your hub.

Mosey: I also have a Dialled PA with QR Revelations. I’ve got Hope hubs so put in a 9mm thru (superstar) and it’s great 😀

When I got my new wheels a while ago I got Hope hubs because I knew they can be converted between QR and 20mm, which was great when I decided to change from forks with QR to forks with 20mm. I’d recommend getting the QR fork now so you can get out and ride ASAP and then look at getting hubs that can be converted when/if you upgrade your wheels.

You could always swap lowers later if you want to try 15 or 20 mm from 9mm.

everything people say about QR being OK is true, I’ve got QR and they have been fine. If I was buying a new set through I would definitely go for some sort of bolt through. Qs dont work lose very often, but they do occasionally. Why risk it ?

and I am sure my 20mm forks are stiffer, I cant say by how much though as I’ve not got QR and 20mm versions of the same fork to compare

and I’m not just saying that so I can sell Mosey my wheel!

I read

well, on a 120-140mm steel hardtail frame, you would like the strength of a bigger axle, as it enhances the ride, after i went to 20mm from QR, i can tell you it makes a big difference. on bumpy stuff and turns it remains more controlled, feels stiffer and is more stable.

and thought ‘this guy sounds like he writes for a magazine’…but then I read

i remember having the wheel flex until it rubbed on my forks with quick release.

and realised you were just full wind and pi$$.
😉

Qs dont work loose very often, but they do occasionally. Why risk it ?

I’ve snapped more frames than I’ve had QRs come loose, and I’m not even exaggerating.

I’d echo the sentiment about broken frames, its not an uncommon thread on most MTB forums but I have yet to read about a snapped QR or even of one coming loose.

I’ve never snapped one, I have had them become strangely loose and wobbly a couple of times though. Not reassuring

and I know you are going to say this is user error but anyway it doesn’t happen with the Maxle on my other forks!

I have also snapped more frames than QRs 🙁

I had a front disc come loose on a ride but that was down to me not tightening the rotor bolts correctly. Made me feel slightly sick when I noticed, didn’t have any tools with me either so rear brake only and a fair few ‘moments’ until I got back to the car!
You live and learn.

Well I bought some amazingly priced Sektors in QR as the travel and price was spot on.

Il get a front pro 2 at some point and upgrade the forks in a few years.

Oh and could someone keep an eye on my posts as if I don’t post again I may have died! 😉

should be a good fork. my pikes were ace until I forgot to service or clean them for 3 years.

Does this relate to rear qr skewers also?, it seems that Orange 5 owners are always spaffing on about how the rear of their bikes are x times stiffer with the must have Maxle upgrade.

Does this relate to rear qr skewers also?

Not so much; one of the alleged advantages of bolt-through front axles of whatever size is that it’s theoretically possible for disc brakes to eject your front wheel from QR dropouts under heavy braking. If you’re interested in the technical arguments, they are here. Not sure how much credence I give that lot; however, I’d always use a decent internal cam QR on the front (ie. Shimano) as they have a higher clamping force.

Andy

it seems that Orange 5 owners are always spaffing on about whatever piece of “evolution” the marketing men have sold them this week

FTFY