I have a 26″ Orange Five that has a 3x drive train, I have fitted wider bars and a dropper post and the next update is a 1x drivetrain.
It currently has 22-32-42 chainrings and an 9 speed 11-32 cassette.
I have been given a ten speed shifter and clutch rear mech and was thinking of either a 32/34/36 wide narrow chain ring with an 10 speed 11-46 cassette.
Can anyone recommend this as a set up, I live in South Lakes so would like a similar gear spread but realise there will be compromises?
Thanks

I have a 30t with an 11-46 10 speed and it is great. I don’t find that I need the harder gears unless I’m on the road, and the easier gears are very much welcome.

If you look at how many times the rear wheel turns for each turn of the cranks, at the moment you have 3.8 to 0.69

With the 32 chainring you’ll have 2.9 to 0.70, so the lowest gear will be near identical but the highest gear a lot lower. Basically it’ll be like losing your big ring in terms of range. Or with a bigger chain ring like a 36 it’ll be like losing half your granny and half your big ring.

The only way to get BIG range with 1x is with a 10-50+ cassette. But most people don’t need as much range as they think on MTB.

Moving to 1 x 10 from 3 x9 you are going to have to compromise at one end of the gear range.

Assuming you want a similar lowest gear, your lowest gear at the moment is 22/32 or .688
in a 1 x set up 32/46 would give you .695. a bit higher but you probably wouldn’t notice.

You would be sacrificing a lot of top end though as your highest gear would be 32/11 rather than 42/11

Over the last three years I went from a 3x setup to 1x of various flavours (32/11-42, 34/11-46) but the next will be 32/11-46. While I do miss the higher gears, that for me (on 26″ wheels like you, OP), is the sweet spot that’ll mean I’m not spending too much time on the cassette’s big aluminium cog, thus prolonging the life of the whole drivetrain. Big day rides, lots of climbing.

Based on what you are fitting on the rear, I’d say a 32 Oval NW up front would be a good match.

As said, there is a compromise one way or another (loose high gears and climbing ability or loose low gears and flat out speed). Only you will know what sort of riding you do and how each of the compromises will benefit/effect your rides. Then go for the size that suits your route/riding best

http://www.gear-calculator.com/ is great to visualise and compare various ratios.

When I went from 3×9 on my 26er with identical ratios to 32×11-42 I was happy to loose the top few gears from the big ring as I basically never used them.

As above, you can try out the ratios with your current setup- it’s just kind of hard to stick to it.

If you go too small it can be a wee bit annoying, if you go too big it can be pretty horrible, so that’s a nobrainer imo, fit the smallest ring you think might be correct. But nobody can tell you what that is because it’s your riding and your legs… The other thing is, if you go 30 or 32t and it’s too small, you’ll be able to sell those easily as long as they’re reasonably new, but way less people want a 36T

Check that your rear mech is a newer type design to cope with the 46 tooth sprocket. Older versions – especially Shimano – don’t have the range capability. You can use an extender, but then the chain wrap is limited, especially at 46 teeth.

Alternatively, find an 11 or 12 speed mech to use with the 10 speed shifter.

On my hardtail I’ve got a 30t chainring and a 10-42 cassette. On the lighter bike with no suspension at the rear that’s usually fine even for biggish days.

In my 4lb heavier full suss with chunkier tyres and a hint of suspension bob (not that bad on this bike to be fair) im running a 32t chainring and 10-51 cassette. On longer rides around 40km with big hills that 51t is a real god send.

In your case I’d probably go 30t and 11-46 if that 10 speed rear mech can reach a 46t cog. If it can’t then 30t and 11-46. But then I’d prioritise the lower climbing gear – on my mtb I rarely spin out a 32/10 or even a 30/10.

I made that plunge a bit back and to be completely honest, I’ve not really noticed a great difference, in that all gears are good for whatever terrain, I dont feel like im missing gears is what I mean.
Im using 2×10 and the only niggle is odd, in that int he big ring its easier in cog gear 4 than it is in 5, and you’d think 5 would be easier to pedal, but oddly it isnt.

1x i think i’d struggle with, though that said I use to run a lightweight commuter int he 90’s that was 1×7 and got on fine with that. Mind you, id legs and more health back then.

Cheers, I’ll give it a go, probably won’t be able to test it climbing until lockdown eases as nothing too steep locally!
I have a mate who insists on climbing up Iron Keld…………that’ll be the litmus test.

Work out the lowest gear you’ll need for climbing and buy the relevant cassette and chainring for that. Your high gear might be a slight compromise but shouldn’t be a big one as you can learn to spin faster or freewheel as you’re already going fast enough!

Top gear on my surly is 32×11.
I can spin that to 20mph, imo that’s plenty, ymmv.
That’s on 29” wheels though.
I’d say, on an mtb climbing gears are probably more important than top end gears.
I can climb fairly steep stuff on 32×32, but only for short bursts.
I’m 52, fat and unfit, but quite strong in short bursts.