£!^%£!%^% new Vaults, drive side stuck won’t bl00dy budge. Despite making sure I had sufficient anti seize when I put them on. Looks like I’ve ended up rounding (slightly) the darn allen key hole as well.

Off on a trip Friday, in the end couldn’t be bothered and left the pedal on with a lot of padding and cardboard wedge between the bag and pedal. Will tackle it when I get back.

Any suggestions on course of action.

check that you’re turning the tool the right way.

get a proper 3/8 drive hex socket on a longer bar and that it’s in the pedal properly.

put the other crank arm in a vice or similar to keep the cranks still whilst you lever on the socket.

[edit] actually, take the crank off the bike and put in vice would make more sense!

+1 for getting a proper socket, make sure you tap it right into the hole and get some leverage on it (remembering to turn the right way)

Are there flats for a pedal spanner on the axle next to the crank?

If there are, set the crank horizontal and facing forwards and fit the spanner so that it’s as close as possible to the BB centre, parallel to the crank, then press on it with your foot from above. This turns it towards the back of the bike, which will undo it.

If there’s only the rounded out hex hole in the axle end you’re goosed and might need to resort to butchery; a plumber’s wrench on the axle might shift it if there’s space for the jaws. Set the wrench alongside the crank as above and press down.

Pretty certain I was turning it the right way (anticlockwise)

Have ordered a proper (with some leverage) hex socket (though not sure if the hole will hold the socket)

@globalti – might try the monkey wrench thing if all else fails. ta.

If you are looking towards the allen key recess on the drive side, turning anti-clockwise would be the wrong way. As globalti says, pedals unscrew towards the back of the bike.

If you don’t have spanner flats and the hex hole is rounded then dismantling the pedal and getting a purchase on the axle will get it out. You’ll need a new axle afterwards in all likelihood.

You could remove the crank to transport and just take the tools to refit.

Plenty of padding will probably be ok.

If you want to be really sure of pedal direction then get a video up on your phone for direct comparison. I know when I’ve had stuck pedals and bolts before you begin to doubt yourself. Parktools has some good info on repair tips with diagrams and pictures.

If all else fails – swallow your pride and drop it off in a shop – sometimes this is the best way.

easy way to remember which way – have bike upright on ground, attach spanner so the sweep end is towards rear of bike. Lean over saddle from above and push the back end of spanner downwards to loosen. Has added benefit that you can put your weight on saddle with chest to give resistance to rear wheel moving

@tthew – 😳

I think I just realised why it’s stuck I had the bike flipped over! Oh fudge dagnammit.

jonba – thanks will bear in mind.

iainc – thanks for the tip.

Thanks for the help, much appreciated.

Did you try heating the end of the crank with a hot air gun or blowtorch? The aluminium crank heats quicker than the steel axle so expands first releasing the pedal.

Obviously don’t do this with Carbon cranks and remember you don’t need to heat it very much.

I had to do this a few times when sorting people’s bikes out as many of my friends are ham-fisted monkeys who shouldn’t be allowed near a tool!

Tom kp