We’re looking at getting away in September for a couple of weeks in Bonnie Scotland. Just about to book a self-catering place in Tobermory for a week, were then thinking about going further North as have never been up that way.

Is Ullapool a decent shout for somewhere to base ourselves? It’ll be for nothing too hardcore; dog walking and sightseeing mainly, ideally with pubs etc nearby for occasional evening meals/pint.

Any ideas, either for places to stay or things to do, welcome.

I think it’s stunning a bit further north – Assynt area. Some absolutely stunning walks around there.

Yep. Nice wee village. Has the essentials; Tesco, Ferry Boat Inn, chippy. Decent access to paths and tracks. Seals in the harbour. Roads both north and south give good access to much of the best of the NC500.

And be prepared for the latter to impact your ability to travel. Just don’t be in a rush to go anywhere.

Village gets suddenly busy twice a day as the ferry comes and goes.

Great place to base yourself. Coigach & Assynt areas are some of the nicest places I’ve ever been to in good weather.

This place for good quality food

https://www.seafoodshack.co.uk/

It’s the Frigate I’m missing most. I used to love popping in there waiting for my taxi customers to arrive off the ferry.

OP –  for someplace to stay, you really need to decide whether or not you want to be within walking distance of the village for a pub etc. There are lots of more secluded spots but you would be required to drive more. Peronally, I always favoured Gairloch and/or Lochinver, but none of these are bad options.

If you are at all interested in geology you’ll have a field day as the area is part of a Geopark with many sites of interest.

There are some posh log cabins at Ardmair Point with stunning views over to the Summer Isles at sunset

Ullapool is a cracking place can be very busy in September so I’d be quick to book if you can.

Cheers all.

you really need to decide whether or not you want to be within walking distance of the village for a pub etc.

Yeah, we probably do.

you really need to decide whether or not you want to be within walking distance of the village for a pub etc.

Yeah, we probably do.

Will the local tesco deliver wine by the crate to a campervan in a layby? Asking for a friend

There are some nice beaches if you head west to Gruinard and Mellon Udrigle

Will the local tesco deliver wine by the crate to a campervan in a layby? Asking for a friend

If he does, will he bring a fish supper for two as well?

I bet the local taxi driver will do a shop and deliver…

Will the local tesco deliver wine by the crate to a campervan in a layby? Asking for a friend

Good luck finding a layby

Ullapool is a good place as a base as others have said, but a bit further up the road is totally stunning – another vote for Assynt here.

can be very busy in September so I’d be quick to book if you can.

2nd this. Some places were talking about being booked up 2 years in advance before the pandemic so your choices might be limited.

so your choices might be limited

Hmm, initial search suggests so. Limited and expensive – £650 for a week in a glamping pod, yoiks

Hmm, initial search suggests so. Limited and expensive – £650 for a week in a glamping pod, yoiks

Lochinver is worth a look too, a bit more going on there than some of the other wee places.

I’ll have a look, ta.

Friday to Friday booking seems to the norm, is it me or is that a bit of a PITA?

We go across to Ullapool fairly regularly if not just to grab lunch at the Seafood Shack, but it does get very busy. It’s one of those places that’s OK to stop off, but more as part of a longer trip rather than a destination lME. The Inverpolly road past Stac Pollaidh to Lochinver is one of the nicest drives in Scotland in the right weather and the beach at Achnahaird has a great backdrop. The Corrieshalloch Gorge is nearby and worth a trip, as is the drive around to Applecross via Torridon and grab some food at the Walled Garden or wade your way through NC500 trippers at the slightly over-rated Applecross Inn.

Don’t discount Tobermory (just waiting for our house to be finished!) it is an island so has a different vibe, slightly slower pace, but it will still be busy in September. Some great remote beaches down at the bottom end and a great place for wildlife trips. Ben More is an great hillwalk with great views.

Sorry for the slight thread hijack but whilst all the locals are assembled… What’s Cape Wrath like? Having never been further than Loch Lomond I’ve always had a bit of a boyish wonder about the place. Probably cos it’s so remote etc. Or is it all off limits anyway due to the MOD firing range?

To get to Cape Wrath, there’s a passenger ferry to get across when the MOD aren’t using the ranges. You’ll have to go to Durness – a beautiful location spoilt by a shitty campsite with crappy cold toilets and showers. There’s a really weird place at Balnakeil where they have converted some hideous concrete ex-MOD buildings into craft shops and cafes including the most over-rated and over-priced hot chocolate. Smoo Cave nearby is worth a visit when its quiet. There’s not much redeeming to the east, particularly the pile of tartan tours tat that is John O’Grots unless you’re heading to Orkney – turn around and go back down the west coast.

Other than the lighthouse and the sense of being “on the edge”, Cape Wrath isn’t all that much. Sandwood Bay is just south of there and is a lovely walk or ride in. Going overland from there to the lighthouse can’t really be recommended though. The area is occasionally out of bounds for military purposes but that’s clearly marked and advertised well in advance.

Balnakeil has some interesting retailers and there are great beaches there too. Some of the best fatbiking in the country. The wee beach at Durness campsite is also a cracker – it’s usually well sheltered and has great swimming.

Well, in the end we’ve ended up booking a place in Golspie. There was bugger all accommodation left on the West coast for the dates we wanted, especially as we need somewhere that’ll take a dog.

Anyway, I’m sure it’ll serve fine as a base for day trips out, and I’ve never done the East coast at all.

That will be fine. We were between Golspie and Lairg last year. It was a great spot, lots to do, good access to all sorts of riding, hills and beaches.

Head up to the beach at Crakaig. There are some substantial remains of the old WW2 Chain Home radar station and the south bit of the beach is allocated to nudists.

RSPB reserve at Forsinard is worth a stop if you’re going to/from the north coast.

If the wind is southerly then you’ll find good beaches at Melvich and Strathy.

Whaligoe steps, Dunnet Head (with a gin distillery) and Duncansby stacks are all worth a visit.

Well, in the end we’ve ended up booking a place in Golspie.

Funnily enough I was going to suggest that neck of the woods as an alternative but thought it might be too different from what you wanted.

It is different but it has a real charm and you can get west easily enough. The only thing I will say is that all the pubs in Golspie are a bit shit in my experience.

Maiden Pap and/or Morven is a great walk, proper wee mountains.

Strath Brora, Glen Loth and Strath of Kildonan are all beautiful on bike or as a drive.

The only thing I will say is that all the pubs in Golspie are a bit shit in my experience.

Really? Bugger.

If staying in golspie, the wildcat trails are definately worth a blast. Nip down to loch fleet to watch the seals going catching fish when the tide is coming in. If you’re prepared to go off piste, there are some fantastic routes all over the place and don’t forgot the world famous ‘stones’ shop in golspie, great place to get your amethyst crystals.

The issue we have up here now is that of limited facilities especially on the NC500 route. It’s a shame hat the highland council don’t put more.money into infrastructure as many locals, esp those on the nc route, now hate tourists… especially when they dump chemical toilets on the roadside. BTW, they don’t discriminate, I got into a heated discussion with a resident of scourie last year when doing a wee bike pack.around the coast about wildcamping and I live here.

Really? Bugger.

It’s possible I just caught it on a bad night but I had a wander round and didn’t like the look of any of them. Combo of poor beer selection and/or being rammed with properly pissed up locals. This was last July when they reopened so maybe everyone was making up for lost time.

It’s a shame hat the highland council don’t put more.money into infrastructure

HC doesn’t have a pot to piss in so it’s hard to see that changing any time soon.

Combo of poor beer selection and/or being rammed with properly pissed up locals.

Basically every Scottish pub then?

No

If you’re staying in Golspie it’s worth a trip up around the Kyles of Sutherland area . There’s trails there and a visit to Croick church for insight to the clearances is poignant.
https://www.croickchurch.com/clearances.htm

Basically every Scottish pub then?

Yawn.

There’s trails there and a visit to Croick church for insight to the clearances is poignant

I have been entirely naked in Croick church.

Yawn.

What?

I’m scottish, i love the place. I’ve worked in a few and drank in maaaaaaaaaany.

The pubs in Scotland are generally poor for beer choice and often have a people getting pissed vibe.

Or i just don’t like pubs…

The pubs in Scotland are generally poor for beer choice and often have a people getting pissed vibe.

Your initial comment sounded like a cheap shot because obviously not every pub in Scotland is like that. The beer choice is often poor though although things are improving.

I have been entirely naked in Croick church.

The thought of that is enough to send me running to a pub in Golspie or even The Invershin

Good choice on Golspie,generally better and drier weather, you won’t have the midge issue or the throngs of tourists and still easy distance to ‘rugged’.

Could never understand the attraction of Ullapool, couple of ok pubs but the hotel with chippie next door are classic tourist RIP-offs and are truly awful and should be avoided
even though they get the odd celeb client and despite the fact that I stood next to Tilda Swinton in the chippie!