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  • a question about rigid forks for converting my mountain bike
  • jojo78
    Free Member

    I’m trying to convert a Gary Fisher MTB w front suss to touring/ commuting bike by adding rigid forks. I have a steering column of 250mm currently but it could be reduced to 220mm with an axel-crown height of 460-70mm. I can’t find anything suitable on ebay. I’d like to spend <£80. Any ideas?

    It prob won’t get lots of use – monthly day rides on canals etc and possibly once a year a 4-5 day cycle such as the CTC trail so on roads/ forrest paths hence why I don’t want to spend lots. Raleigh seem to do a 1 18″ rigid threaded fork that evans sell for only £27 that matches my specifications but will it be rubbish? Kinesis do a crosslight cx/3 but are these only for 700 tyres, not 26″? Surly seems to do a 1X1 but is the steerer too short? The surly troll forks also seem ok. Also looking at salsa cromoto on ebay. Help – am getting v confused!

    If I need to cut the steering column is it easy to do or should I take it to my local bike shop?

    Thanks for any replies!

    PeterPoddy
    Free Member

    You won’t find a fork with the same axle to crown measurement as your suspension fork. A 440mm axle to crown rigid will be perfect. I’ve bougt 2 sets, one was a used Genesis iO set off a mate for £20, the other some rather nicer, and rarer, Kona Project Two disc only forks for £55. Those came off eBay, lightly used.

    EDIT
    Unless its a 29er that is!

    SprocketJockey
    Free Member

    i’m running an Orange F8 fork on an old Gary Fisher Wahoo frame for road and touring use. Works really well – recommended.

    I didn’t need to cut the steerer, but it’s a pretty straightforward DIY job – measure twice, cut once though!

    http://www.allterraincycles.co.uk/.Orange-F8-Rigid-Fork_125995.htm

    Pics of the set up below:

    Can also recommend the Surly 1×1 fork though – have a 1×1 as one of my other bikes and it’s great.

    jojo78
    Free Member

    Thanks for the replies – really helpful – unfort both the suggestions I’d looked at but had to exclude due to having a v brake set up not disc brakes 🙁 Any decent v brake set ups?

    SprocketJockey
    Free Member

    I’d go for the 1×1 fork in that case. Or you could go for a mullet setup (cable disc on front).

    tk46hal
    Free Member

    Look at Exotic carbon forks. They come with V brake mounts as well as disc!
    I have a pair on a rigid 29er and I love them!

    jojo78
    Free Member

    Thanks again for replies! I think it’s between a surly troll or the 1x1s. I think I’m edging towards the trolls as they have pannier attachments, though they are slightly heavier. Any opinion on the trolls?

    mooman
    Free Member

    Exotic alu forks on my mtb.
    Even though they not the blingier carbon – they comfortable enough.

    MaryHinge
    Free Member

    I’ve got a set of Kona Project 2 forks for sale.

    They have canti bosses, which are the same as v bosses. Also mudguard/rack mounts.

    They are the 700c version from a Kona Jake CX bike, but I’ve just tried a 26″ wheel with a 2.2 tyre and it fits like a normal 26″ fork (likely they are exactly the same!).

    Immaculate virtually unused condition as I put disc forks on. Full length uncut steerer too. £35 posted if you are interested.

    Mods – I’ll put an ad in the right place 😉 (or that’ll be twice this week I’ll get a telling off!)

    Pics (edit: pic link not working well! Can email, mine in profile))

    twojumpers
    Full Member

    The 700c p2’s canti bosses will be too high for 26″ wheels and probably too short on the a/c (~400mm irc).

    DezB
    Free Member

    I put a wanted on the classifieds and got some for £5! (They are bit like the P8s)
    They’ve been on a 90’s Principia, a Carrera Kraken and now a Genesis IO.
    Never checked any crown heights and they do the job just fine. Although they did feel too short on the Kraken, so I abandoned that frame 🙂

    Cutting the steerer is easy enough with a decent hack saw and a workmate. Measure twice, cut once!

    nedrapier
    Full Member

    slight hijack rather than starting my own, but it might be pertinent to the OP or others reading.

    When you’re replacing a suss fork, do you go for the nearest you can to the A2C of the fork, or take a bit off to replicate the A2C of the sagged fork when you’re actually riding it?

    I’m replacing a Z2 Bomber – 432.5mm. There are a few 440mm around, which would be fine, but taking 1/4 (of 70mm travel)off for sag, and we get to 415mm, which makes 440 sound a bit long.

    I guess the answer is to try both, but I’d be interested to see if anyone’s gone shorter for this reason.

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