- 6" and under 6lbs. What frames are out there?
Nomad C comes in at 6.25lb the Blur LTc is 6lb and feels more like 160mm.
Mine is built up with mid level kit 2x & Hope/mavic wheels/brakes KS Lev, 780mm bars & 160mm forks so not the lightest build goes from 28-31 depending on build. Reckon I could get it down to 26 with the right stuff and not compromise too much.
What sort of light weight kit that will last 10 mins comes on the Stumpy etc?Posted 4 years ago
If you ride at any sort of pace, something ~25 lbs and racing stuff like the Mega is not going to last you long term. You’re going to be wrecking stuff left, right & centre.
I’ve raced Enduro all year on a bike similar to what you want, but built up around 27 lbs & it’s wrecked after a season & a few weeks in the Alps.
I won’t be building something as light for the next one. I want something I haven’t had to nurse through the last few months.Posted 4 years ago
Nomad-c and sb66c look like great frames but are comparatively heavy unfortunately
Thought Blur LTc was on the steep side but will check out the geometry
I get where you’re coming from Hob Nob but I do much more riding for fun than racing and am only 165lbs so shouldn’t be as hard on kit as you’ve found hopefully
b r I’m 6ft so normally need a frame only 1 size larger than the mediums they typically quote weights for so shouldn’t be too far outPosted 4 years agoone_happy_hippyMember
My large Nomad C is about 26lbs with 34’s Easton Haven ally wheels. Haven carbon bars, reverb and XO groupset and Easton Flatboys which are the worlds heaviest pedal. I ride DH on it and haven’t broken anything yet and I’m not one to pick my lines particularly well…Posted 4 years ago
Just curious, what’s broken/worn out on it this year?
My list so far this year is:
2 sets of frame bearings
1 rear hub
2 sets of hub bearings
2 rear rims (1 crash/1split)
1 front rim
~20 replacement spokes (popping them out)
1 front caliper
1 replacement lever
1 rear shock
2 sets of pedals (bent axles & smashed pedal bodies)
1 chain guide
2 front chainrings
1 set of handlebars
1 set of cranks
A few tyres!
That’s from racing the UKGE series, the Euro rounds of the EWS, the Mega, Mountain of Hell & 2 Maxi Avalanches. I’ve got 2 races left this year.
My large Nomad C is about 26lbs with 34’s Easton Haven ally wheels. Haven carbon bars, reverb and XO groupset and Easton Flatboys which are the worlds heaviest pedal. I ride DH on it and haven’t broken anything yet and I’m not one to pick my lines particularly well…
When you say about 26, do you really mean about 28? 😉
My bike has the same frame weight & is a higher/lighter spec, yet is heavier. Unless of course you’re running 500g floppy XC tyres…Posted 4 years ago
I’m looking to build a light weight all day bike for the Alps and am trying to come up with a shortlist of frames to look for as a base for the build. I live in Geneva and there are a lot of epic Alpine descents nearby, but the best ones require equally epic climbs so I’m focussed on building something a lot lighter than my current 35lb+ big bike. Ultimately I’d like to build something close to 25lbs overall that I can cycle to Zermatt and back on, but also I’ve done the Mega for the last couple of years so I’d plan to use it for that kind of thing too so it can’t be too XC focussed
Here’s what I’m looking for:
Frame weight with shock closer to 5lbs than 6lbs. Definitely not over 6
26″ wheels only
67 degree HA or lower, or tapered headtube for an angleset
Preferably ISCG tabs and a bolt through rear axle
No reputation for cracking easily
So far the only frames I’ve found that fit the bill are the carbon versions of the Stumpjumper Evo, Lapierre Spicy, and Trek Remedy. What else should I be putting on the list?Posted 4 years ago
Not much was actual crash damage to be fair. Rear rim, brake master cylinder & bars mostly.
All the other stuff I would class as W&T. Stuff like cranks, pedals & mechs I guess I was unlucky with, I clipped a rock hard enough to bend a pedal, yet it also bent the crank arm in one case for example.Posted 4 years ago
Sounds like for the OP 2 sets of wheels would be a good idea if you want to get the weight down occasionally but still have a robust bike.
Yup, that’s why it has to be 26″ as I already have various wheels/tyres/forks I can use
fivespot I’d be interested if it was the carbon one as that’s only 4.5lbs(!) according to devinci.com (not clear if that’s with shock or not though) and looks like a nice frame even if it is ‘only’ 145mm
Likewise JP Pivot Mach 5.7 carbon is a good shoutPosted 4 years agodavidtaylforthMember
Hob Nob always seems to know his stuff, I’d take his advice.
Also, at that weight, I wouldn’t get an alloy frame either, I don’t reckon it’d last very long. Carbon all the way! Or a Cotic Rocket.
And bare in mind, uphill performance isn’t just about the weight. A couple of pounds here or there isn’t going to make much difference.
Dunno what you’re on at the moment, but it’s geometry and setup probably aren’t helping its uphill abilities. Also, are you running Dual Ply supertackies? these always felt truly awful anywhere other than downhill IMO.Posted 4 years ago
This is my first build that has seen the scales on a few occasions I can strip back to 28lb, adding bigger tyres, dropper, chain guide, bash and heavier pedals takes me to 31 but it still feels light.
A good pedal platform/suspension system is worth at least 1 lb
Have a well build solid platform bike and work around it with spares/swap out bits to get to the extremes.Posted 4 years ago
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