Which means I lock that in place? Why? I can then fit a standard stem?
I get the stiffness discussions but can normal humans/riders really notice a difference between 31.8 and 35s?
I could also remove the knock block headset aspect completely if there is no way they can hit eachother of course.
So if I understand correctly you want to try 31.8 bars but the Trek stem fits 35 bars so you want to use a non-knock block stem?
I have 31.8 bars in the Trek stem with spacers I got from ebay but I can’t find a link to the exact component ATM.
I have read on the internet that you can dremel the knobs off the Trek spacers and use a standard stem or make recesses in a standard stem to knock block it (not for the faint hearted).
I’ve used one of Trek ‘knock-block to normal’ adapters on my bike so that I could use my old stems. The adapter is effectively a locking 10mm spacer that means the knock block system still works, but you can stick non Trek stems on. Oh, and I’ve used some 31.8 carbon bars on my heavy Trek ebike and they didn’t feel like noodles (even with my fat old ar** handing off them!)…er, I do think they were a bit more comfortable though – but that might be down to the slightly different shape.
I think I might have an unused adapter in my garage, so if you’re interested I can have a look and let you know if I find it.
Just been in the garage and put my hand straight on it – I also found that knockblock lock spacer;) I think I bought it for a Fuel EX I used to own, and never got round to fitting it. It’s still in its unopened packet marked £17.49. I’m open to a reasonable offer, so if you’re interested just PM me. If you’ve found an alternative solution, no worries, I’ll stick it on Fleabay.
Why does the spacer need to be a locking type then guys ? I must be missing something here but i can’t really think of a reason it would need to be so.
Why does the spacer need to be a locking type then guys ? I must be missing something here but i can’t really think of a reason it would need to be so.
this was news to me so I just went and looked at a trek video. The headset cap, spacers, and stem all lock together. Theory being the stem has the strongest connection to the fork steerer.
I thought the whole idea of the knock block was to get around the issue of your crown fowling the downtube.
They went with a straight downtube and as such you can no-longer 360 the bars, so they had to do something to stop that happening. Didn’t think it had anything to do with stiffness (edit – of the steering, the straight downtube is all about stiffness) or connection between bars & fork. Only the bottom spacer that’s doing the blocking needs to be there, the rest is probably just there to help stop people putting the stem on at a jaunty angle or maybe the marketeers decided to have a bit of fun.