Evening folks, bought a 4k car from the garage at the end of my road in November. First long run in it after 2 weeks of ownership, it went to limp mode, took it back and they sorted it.
Also had a friend do a scan and it threw up DPF issues. Had it back for a few weeks and it was running lumpy, they took it back and “sorted” it.
3000miles later and it’s back in limp, wife dropped it into them and they’ve sorted it today. I’ve taken it for a quick run, 2 miles, and it won’t rev properly.
I stopped via the garage as they were locking up. And I explained the frustration, mentioning “at this point I’m close to asking for the money back”. That appeared to get their back up, stating they’ve been more than reasonable, which they have in fairness. But I’m without a vehicle quite often and it’s been constant since I’ve bought it.
Silly me has no paperwork of any of the remedial work carried out.

WWSTW do?

Unfortunately your way past the 30day? Return point. I’d probably (if you can afford it), ask them for an exchange rather than try to fight out a full refund.

Hmm, you’ve done 3k+ miles in a 4K car? I think you’re reliant on good will here.

I think that at that level of travel you are going to struggle to prove it was preexisting on what’s a pretty cheap motor.

What is the car?

I had some similar experience with a 4k car last year. Ended up with me being advised by a trusted mechanic to get rid.

I went in to the supplying dealer and had a bit of a go at him, which got me a small bit of cash off them. He did say he’d prefer to put me in a new car, but his stock was all small hatchbacks.

So I traded it in elsewhere. Basically lost quite a bit of money on it, but so did the supplying dealer.

The trade-in was then sold on by the dealer I’d gone to. With a fresh MOT. And trust me when I say there is no way they’d done a proper MOT on it! I’m going to watch next year’s mot with interest.

So, speak with the supplier and see what you can chop it in for. If they’ve been good to press, chances are they’ll be decent again.

Volvo v50 1.6 diesel. Im pretty certain of what the fault is and it due to resetting counters. But I’m told that’s all been done. There is also history of questionable work done by them in the past that I’ve let slide.
So that’s why this one has got me frustrated.

I’d be trying to shift it on again personally. Haven’t got time to deal with that shit even if I made a bit of a loss.

Sounds like the DPF is knackered which will cost half the value of the car at this point to replace.

The easiest solution might just be to sell it. Sounds like they’ve been fairly reasonable. £4k doesn’t buy you a lot these days and some problems are to be expected, it’s the risk of buying secondhand. You’d do well to get your money back.

That 1.6 engine is shit – it’s the same crap PSA group engine that’s in loads of stuff especially if it’s already had a turbo and not been flushed properly. It’s not a bulletproof million mile proper Volvo engine.

Get rid. Buy a simple old school petrol engine.

Get rid. Buy a simple old school petrol engine

I’m now wanging round in a Honda Jazz. I learned my lesson about vauxhalls.😂

@rustynissanprairie is that the same lump that you find in similarly aged Fiestas? Prone to oil starvation?

My sister in law has a 1.6 that seemingly has knackered cam followers or camshaft from improper lubrication and is appropriately noisy.

Yep.
That era V50 is a Ford Focus with a Peugeot Citroën diesel engine, that was strangled by euro 5/6 emissions regulations so it throws a wobbly constantly
New DPF from autodoc may be the answer in the short term

So update. After a feverish few hours this morning I’ve secured an old 2005 petrol 1800 focus this morning, leaving me with time to think carefully about what to do with the Volvo.

Option 1, continue letting the garage have a look at it and be very petty abou the whole thing knowing I have the time and effort and spite to sort it.

Option 2, have all faults cleared and get it back into the dealer network as a part X.

Option 3, an old college and friend runs a diesel specialist tuning place, and “recommends a full delete, and friendly MOT tester”…..which he is

Option 4, drive it into the forecourt in a fireball, and loads of frozen sausages, bombers and pee for shoes.

On a serious note, thanks for reminding me the garage have been reasonable enough, and it’s pays your money’s takes your chances with this sort of stuff.

I don’t know how old your Volvo is but early versions of that engine suffered from turbo failure due to a blocked oilway gauze which in turn was caused by injector issues and failed regens.

It’s a roundabout way of saying – go with option 2 and sell it to WBAC.
Option1 – the garage is going to do the bare minimum as you’ve well eaten into their profits at this point.
Option3 doesn’t guarantee reliability coupled with Greta calling round and throat punching you.

have all faults cleared and get it back into the dealer network as a part X

Where they will just clear the codes and pass it on to some other poor sod. That’s probably how you ended up with it in the first place.

There’s no 30 day return period IIRC. You are entitled to a refund if you can prove it was not fit for purpose when you bought it. But 3k miles in? Tricky. I was however told that claims of this nature are heavily weight in favour of the consumer so might be worth a look.

It’s not a bulletproof million mile proper Volvo engine.

Isn’t it nearly 25 years since they last bolted one of them together (destined for UK shores)that wasn’t found in something you need your CatC to drive?

The wifes C30 has the PSA 1.6d. As said its not the best engine we’ve had the sort the EGR/DPF in the time we’ve had it -Option 3 (waiting for Greta to turn up)

In its defence though its been otherwise spot on in the 5 years we’ve had it, £30 ved and 50mpg.

That’s mad. Yours is £30 tax, sorry VED, mines free. Same bloody engine.

And to Rusty, the garage have actually thrown a new turbo on it, it seems in all the work they’ve done. So baring that in account they’ve done enough to not resort to option 4, it was just the way he got very defensive and not very nice, but I do see it from his side. He’s spent plenty and it’s clearly costing him now.

But the injector one is a point I do need to look at, as there is clear carbon deposits around injector 1 and 2.

Essentially I’ve bought a pup, and as an agricultural tech I really should know better.

Now I’m at a mop up and salvage point.

the garage have actually thrown a new turbo on it, it

That’s a run a mile red flag when it comes to a psa 1.6

Oh don’t I know it. What I really should have done was ask for the money back after it went back originally at 32 days. Rather than allow this carry on to go on.

Option 2, have all faults cleared and get it back into the dealer network as a part X.

Cut your loss and get a Jap Petrol like Honda or Toyota. They are not fancy but they keep going.

Option 3, an old college and friend runs a diesel specialist tuning place, and “recommends a full delete, and friendly MOT tester”…..which he is

Only if your friend is confident he can fix the problem.

Personally, I would go with Option 2 to have peace of mind.

I too have a V50 but it’s the 2 litre diesel. It used to sporadically go into limp mode without any pattern at all. After a bit of searching I unplugged the CEM in the pass side footwell and sprayed contact cleaner in the plugs and CEM pins. Plugged an unplugged a couple of times and it’s run fine for nearly 2k miles now.
I do have VIDA diagnosis though and narrowing down the fault code to the signal from the throttle pedal was what led me to find the CEM plug thing.

Worth a shot for £5 worth of electrical contact cleaner:)

And to Rusty, the garage have actually thrown a new turbo on it,

carbon deposits around injector 1 and 2

Deffo option2

Isn’t it nearly 25 years since they last bolted one of them together (destined for UK shores)that wasn’t found in something you need your CatC to drive?

I know neither are red blocks but our 2.4NA and D5 are getting there at 200k and 215k miles respectively and both still doing their jobs well.

And ive run 2x D5s to over 250,000 and fitted zero hardware to them.
Neither used any oil or water. One had a cambelt at the 180k point, no water pump swap.
I cant recall using my AA membership on either car in the last 5 years. I pulled the drive shaft knuckle when doing a lower arm swap and had to ride to work
Both euro3 so no swirl flaps or dpf