I have a 2018 escarpe which is identical in a lot of ways, on the size chart you’re right between S and M – they are long bikes, my XL is 495 reach which isn’t far off the longest bikes out there, at 6ft 3 I could have gone for the L as I’m also right between sizes.

Basically, both will fit you, I’d probably go for the M in your situation, 150 Vs 125mm dropper and although it’s long for the size it shouldn’t feel massive. They have short 45mm stems too. Mine doesn’t feel overly long when riding it, just when trying to move it around manually!

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2434kRY]IMG_20180503_171254[/url] by Paul Sims, on Flickr

I’m 5’11” (33″ inseam) and ride a 2018 SMALL E-Sommet (practically the same geometry as the Sommet) I’m running a 150mm brand-x on mine. Originally I was going to run a 170mm OneUpComponents dropper but they aren’t as short as OneUp state (OneUp’s measurements don’t take the actuator into account) and annoyingly on the Esommet the seat tubes are only reamed 165-175mm deep (depending on size) I think to stop Noddys dropping their post too deep into the seat tube and fouling/damaging the shock. If this is the same with the standard sommet you may well run into problems running a 150mm reverb low enough. You’ll have no problems running any 410mm or longer post high enough though.

FWIW a 150mm Brand-X is right around the same length as a 125mm reverb. The B-X is listed as 458mm but that measurement includes the dropper mechanism under the post. meaning seatpost clamp to base is actually only around 420mm.

A 150mm reverb is 440mm but that doesn’t include the connectamajig. (may or may not be a problem due to the shock position)

The Carbon/Lyrik sommet is an absolute bargain if that’s the bike you’re looking at. <EDIT> it *was* £2400 a week ago. now back at £2999 :'(

Sizing: I don’t like long bikes, they are slightly more stable at high speeds but as with 29ers. For me. They suck all the fun out of riding. A small 2018 sommet is actually longer than a 2017 Medium was. I’ve ridden Medium/small frames since 1993 and I’m pretty compitent at it. The one bonus from the industry pushing long frames is I now get to ride bikes with shorter less ugly seat tube lengths. Win Win. Just glad I’m not short myself as there are very few options anymore for a shorter rider who doesn’t like long bikes.

The only slight negatives are

the quality of the paint job seems poor as it wears through quite easily.

The cables were a bit of a birds nest & untidy.  Both of these will be fixed with a respray / powder coat and trimming of the hoses etc.

The High Roller on the front isn’t a good option for me. It just doesn’t seem fit for winter riding in Scotland

I fitted 2.8 tyres too without any clearance issues & an offset bushing to drop the BB back down a touch & slacken it out to 64.5 at the head tube

Yeah the pain does chip a little easily but some protection film/3m scotch tape will sort that, no need for a respray… You get paint touch up pots with the bike.

Cables – that’s the same for every bike? I’ve seen bikes with far worse nests of cables than the Sommet/escarpe, pretty easy job to get them clean and silent:

[url=https://flic.kr/p/Jng5uC]IMG_20180424_194656[/url] by Paul Sims, on Flickr

Tyre choice is personal but unless you get lucky I’d expect to change at least one on a new bike to something more of your liking.

Seat tube angle plays absolutely no part in reach whatsoever.

Reach is the horizontal distance from the centre of BB to centre of upper headtube. ie. pedalling axis to steering axis. And this is the important measurement for stood up riding. (horizontal distance from feet to hands). The reason lots of bikes are coming with steeper seat angles is to put rider weight more central while sat down climbing. Good luck if you’re trying to “chuck about” any bike while sat down. On any vaguely interesting flat or downhill terrain where you might be “throwing2 the bike about you should be stood up rather than seated and the saddle should only be there to control the bike with your inner thigh.

From what you’re saying it sounds like you’ve made the wrong choice a few times now. I’d definitley get a long test ride before making a similar mistake again.

Yeah. You’ve confused me completely. I have no idea what you’re on about with the Bird (but let’s not go there again, eh?). I think you’re simply using the word “reach” to describe something that is not the measurement “reach” but saddle to steerer distance. Steeper seat angles obviously shorten this distance and when sat down put you more above the BB than behind it.

A long reach bike really isn’t what you want if like me you’re a rear wheel biased rider who like to manual everything and pop off every compression and that’s one of the main reasons I have the small when a lot of riders my height would be on the large. I know I’d be slightly faster some places (flat out rough straights mainly) on a large bike but I also know I wouldn’t find a longer bike as much fun to ride. Chainstay length comes into this as well. longer being more stable and shorter being easier to manual/more poppy

Yeah. I think the 15″ would definitely suit you far better. Whereabouts are you?

Simon, the size small Vitus is very similar geo numbers to my small Airdrop Edit. Marsden based if you want to sling a leg over it.

I get on well with it. I had a sommet before it, and was happy with that too. I only changed as I wanted a shorter seat tube to allow me to run a longer dropper, and was interested in a different shock which wouldn’t fit the sommet. I’m 5’6″ and proportionally have slightly longer body / shorter legs. I’ll message you my details if you want to try it.