2009 mavic crossmax SLR hub loose issue

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  • 2009 mavic crossmax SLR hub loose issue
  • khani

    It might be the freehub bushing is worn..
    If its not that I have no idea, sorry..

    It’s a brand new free hub straight from wrapper. And the body I’d slides onto that the pawls sit in apparently don’t wear out. Could it be the bearings perhaps. Don’t see it as they are silly smooth and show no signs of wear.

    Help required please! I have just replaced my free hub body on my crossmax SLR with the correct spec and part number body as stated by the mavic technical dept. unfortunately when I installed it with the washer in place and using mineral oil I still have a small amount of lateral play in the body! The springs are clean and lifting and closing properly, the rubber gromit thingy has been taken out and cleaned (tried this in both ways, upside down and slanty bit up). I have the mavic tool with the pins to hold non drive side while I tighten 5mm bolt on drive side but it still wobbles by about .3 mm if I tighten too much the axle becomes too tight. What am I doing wrong?


    On the pair I had, the nylon bush on the free hub body had worn the hub body. So replacing the freehub body with a standard sized bush didn’t reduce the float. You can get oversized bushes that make up the difference. I think I found mine on eBay.


    apparently don’t wear out

    They really do. But I can see why someone would tell you that if they were trying to sell you a standard hub body, not over size.

    Hubdoctor is your friend. Dump the crappy nylon bush and get a bearing in there.


    That sounds is definitely wrong

    you should have a 10mm allen key in the NDS and a 5mm allen key in the DS?
    M40580 freehub body (not M40592)?
    washer between bearing and freehub body?

    if you’re tightening the DS with a 5mm allen key, with the NDS restrained with the bearing tension adjustment tool (half moon with pegs that will break off if you over tension) then thats wrong – you don’t need to use that tool till its back in the frame ready to set bearing tension – you need to start now by backing the tension off that by about 2-3 turns

    there should be a little plug held in the NDS side of the axle by an o-ring, pop that off and you should get a 10mm allen key in,

    contrarotate NDS 10mm allen against the 5mm allen key on DS to tighten the axle.

    reinsert NDS dropout contact plug

    now put it in the frame and spin the wheel, wind in bearing tension till you see slowing of the wheel, then back off 1/2 turn.

    Job jobbed!

    Ninfan thanks for tips there. Yes it’s the m40580 and so far I have only been using the funny half moon tool. It appears then that I had to use a 10mm key instead. I wrongly assumed did I that they were one and the same item rendering the 10mm pointless. I don’t have a 10mm key but will get one in the morning and try as your suggesting. Thanks a lot and I’ll respond with the results in the morning.


    Ninfan I just tried as you suggested and I still of the same bit of wobble. I have just read of a oversized bushing adding for the hub body which I have ordered as it seems that it has worked on others with the same symptom. Thanks for the help.

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