- This topic has 40 replies, 22 voices, and was last updated 13 years ago by rootes1.
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2 x 1 gear set up
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alcookerFree MemberPosted 13 years ago
I’ve tried a web search on the following but nothing much comes up. There’s probably a good reason for that, but before shooting me down have a think on it.
i currently have single speed on my bike, I’m not over keen on having a cassette and derailleur, even short cage. This is partially because of the fiddle but also because of noise and I have to admit-looks. Last time in Afan I really needed a lower gear to climb than the 70.4″ (32 front x12 rear) I was running.
Have been seriously considering Hammerschmidt but it’s pretty pricey and a bit weighty, also considering a road mech and cassette but my road bike’s Dura ace short cage still looks too much for me to be honest. So I wonder if anyone’s tried using say 34 and 22 teeth front rings with single cog on rear with maybe a Surly Singulator to take up the slack?
I just tried it out on my road bike 52/39 and shifting is not too bad but i was suprised how much chain slack the rear mech had to take so not sure if the above would work.Any thoughts
ScienceofficerFree MemberPosted 13 years agoA singulator won’t give you the range. I’ve thought about this but decided not to bother in the end.
A Rohloff tensioner or one of these: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=16663. Might sort you out with enough.
alcookerFree MemberPosted 13 years agoNever seen one of those before, pretty cool Swiss engineering. Interesting site, but they’re still a rather pricey option.
RickosFree MemberPosted 13 years agoDon’t go Hammerschmidt. See here for very good reasons why.
http://www.bikerumor.com/2010/09/09/review-truvativ-hammerschmidt-a/Search for dinglespeed on here for some ideas.
eg – http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/2-chainrings-on-a-singlespeedhttp://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/dingle-all-the-way
http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/odd-singlespeed-question
BezFull MemberPosted 13 years agoNah, dinglespeeds are just two singlespeeds: you get off and take the wheel out to change ratios. The OP is, I think, asking about a shiftable two-speed setup.
I’ve not done it myself but I’ve been sorely tempted to do it on my cross bike using one of the Shimano Alfine tensioners, which will give enough tensioning to cover two rings up front. My main concern would be whether the tension’s sufficient to keep the chain on the rear sprocket on rough terrain in the lower gear (which, seeing as I’d be using the lower one off-road and the higher on, would be where it’d see action). But I guess you could always mount some retention discs (perhaps just a pair of larger sprockets) either side on the cassette to keep it stuck.
alcookerFree MemberPosted 13 years agoQuite an eye opener, never heard of Dinglespeed. Thanks all for the links, like the look of the NC-17 tensioner and they do say it’s good for dual speed. Okay it looks like a derailleur, but my 456 will need a tensioner of some type anyway.
I can see the benefits of dinglespeed, but I don’t think I’d want to hold fellow riders up by changing sprockets at the top/bottom of trails, they have to wait long enough as it is. So shiftable on the fly 2 speed is what I’d like.
takisawa2Full MemberPosted 13 years agoMy slidey Inbred used to run 36/32 front – 16/12 rear, as it was doubling as a commuter. Worked fine. Have a spare set of slick wheels now, running 12t but still 36/32 up front.
I’ve day-dreamed about some kind of mechanism using a RockShox Poploc remote as a shifter.
lovewookieFull MemberPosted 13 years agoYou could always try retro-direct gearing? If you have a cassette rear wheel you mount two sprockets on it, use an extra long chain and find a way of looping it.
Basically pedal backward for the high gear, forward for the lower gear (pedalling backwards whilst exerting/climbing feels odd)
allmountain76Free MemberPosted 13 years agoThe yess tensioners take up a lot of slack as they are the only ones (IIRC) designed for up to 5″ full suss frames. I used one on my Alfine / Heckler set up and it certainly had a lot of range adjustment.
http://labs.yesspro.com/products/etr-d
This is the one i used and it can run from 90 degrees to the arm to in line with it. The spring tension is adjustable as is the arm angle.
Might be worth speaking to them.
andrewhFree MemberPosted 13 years agoIs that pic a Schlumph?
If not, may I suggest Schlumph. Are they any lighter than a Hammerschmidt?allmountain76Free MemberPosted 13 years agoThe Alfine tensioner didnt pull enough chain to work on my Heckler’s chain growth so i doubt it would pull enough to compensate for a 2 ring set up. Thats why i got the YESS, its specifically designed for chain growth not just keeping a set tension, most tensioners are just what they say on the tin, tensioners in the static sense.
yesiamtomFree MemberPosted 13 years ago70 gear inches? 32 x 12? Are you serious? You msut be joking surely???? In fact part of me thinks you are talkign about road cycling and im getting the wrong end of the stick.
If what you say is true you need to rethink your gearing. Start at 54 inches for general riding (32×16) and then when you go somewhere hilly gear up at the back (32×17) and places like afan gear up again (32×18). I ran the last combo mentoined at it made climbing possible at all the southern welsh trail centres.
People need to stop being scared of spinning fast.
rootes1Full MemberPosted 13 years agoHiya allmountain76
re alfine tensioner… sorry i should have said
i meant the old one they did
not the new one like this
cheers
SijimFree MemberPosted 13 years agoHave been seriously considering Hammerschmidt but it’s pretty pricey and a bit weighty, also considering a road mech and cassette but my road bike’s Dura ace short cage still looks too much for me to be honest.
Do you really spend that much time riding around looking at the back end of your bike?
Stop trying to apply a solution to a problem that doesn’t existing and go 1×8/9/10.
ScienceofficerFree MemberPosted 13 years agoActually, I’ve just remembered, technically I do have a Dinglespeed.
I have a 22T granny on my regular 32:16. Its my cheater gear, and there for long days when my legs are close to cramping.
So, A Rohloff DH (short) tensioner can cover the difference of 10 Teeth at least.
allmountain76Free MemberPosted 13 years agoSi – but the old one looks just like a mech and apparently thats a bad thing. 😆
rootes1Full MemberPosted 13 years agoSi – but the old one looks just like a mech and apparently thats a bad thing.
good point 😆
Si
epicsteveFree MemberPosted 13 years agoI’ve got one of those Alfine tensioners sitting unused in a box somewhere, so might slap it on my Inbred and give it a go.
RestlessNativeFree MemberPosted 13 years agoThat sturmey archer hub looks cool, I have several silly bike idea floating about my head now!
alcookerFree MemberPosted 13 years agoAll great stuff, glad the idea has been looked into before and I didn’t get totally rubbished.
I’ll just explain the reasons for my madness. Never been a rider who manages to get out much, had a Commy Meta 4x with a 3×9 set up. Did a weekend at Afan, loved it but couldn’t do with all the noise from the chain slack and all the shifters/derailleurs. Sold the Commy due to little use. Got an invite on a Boys one at Afan a couple of years later, only MTB left in my possession was my commuter Inbred running S.S. 36×12, my Bro had a 32 ring so he chucked it on to give me a fighting chance. I got my 70.4 gear inches from Sheldon Brown’s calculator, but I may have misunderstood.
I can’t remember which trail it was there but at one point we came out on a fire road next to some wind turbines, it was a long ride (about midday until 5ish) that involved a bit of pushing for me. Felt like I was going to die when we got back to camp, but it was superb, superb , superb on S.S., nothing rattling, except my arms, only noise was a lovely solid thudding.Now bought a 456 summer season which unfortunately has sliding dropouts so unless I’m v lucky with chain length, will need a tensioner anyway which start to look like derailleurs which i didn’t want. Like the look of the NC-17, it will fit in nicely with my stealthy build, but it really looks like a stripped down derailleur so a sane man would probably ask the question – why don’t you just have a 7/8 or 9 speed cassette, 11-23 so it keeps a low profile, short cage mech, short chain and one ring up front?
Yesiamtom- my Bro said the same thing about the gearing as you yesterday ‘ you just had too high a gear, stick with single speed’
Have to say I’m not particularly fit, but the week after that Afan ride I felt like I could’ve done Mike Tyson in his prime.
Got some thinking and experimenting to do!Oh and if anyone knows if a Saint mech is massively heavier than a meduim cage SLX or an short X9 can you let me know, because (shallowly) I quite like the look of the Saint.
Ta
Alluked2Free MemberPosted 13 years ago36×12
As others have said – you just had a completely crazy gear ratio for Afan (or anywhere with a hill).
Before you go spending money on complicated solutions, just try the simple one. Get a 16t sprocket for flattish places, and an 18t for Afan (£3 from your local bike store) and you’re done.
I’ve ridden around Afan on 32×18 and I think there’s only one or two places I couldn’t get up. Lots of others have as well.
alcookerFree MemberPosted 13 years agoGood plan, I’ll grab some more sprockets.
Slight mistake on the 36x 12, it was 32×12,richccFree MemberPosted 13 years agoI was pondering this too. Run a 44-17 on roadrat commuter. Would be nice to have an ‘overdrive’ to get a wriggle on on the flat and keep up with pedals down hill. Was actually pondering a 700c wheel built with a proper 3 speed Sturmney Archer
rootes1Full MemberPosted 13 years agoRichcc take look at the two speed sturmy hub. Neat, and no need for a shifted and cable
tandaylorFree MemberPosted 13 years agoThis post made me smile. My brother keeps telling me to fit a rear mech – but I fool myself in to thinking I can create ultimate SS versatility to a single bike designed for offraod and on road duties.
Once I tried to manage a chain with 2 powerlinks. Run a long chain for ‘commute mode’ on the big ring, and remove a section for offroad use on the middle ring. Powerlinks are a b*stard to undo. I later learnt they are apparently “designed” not to be undone. I only swapped the chain twice.
I’m currently running 1×9 (and commuting on a different bike).
Sturmey Archer S2 sounds great. Though I’d worry about inadverently down shifting offroad. Sounds good for the commute.
ScienceofficerFree MemberPosted 13 years agoPowerlinks are a b*stard to undo. I later learnt they are apparently “designed” not to be undone.
I’m not sure either of those statements are entirely true.
If they are, I must tell my fingers. They’ve been undoing SRAM power links once a week for the last 5 years.
rootes1Full MemberPosted 13 years agoPowerlinks are a b*stard to undo. I later learnt they are apparently “designed” not to be undone.
I’m not sure either of those statements are entirely true.If they are, I must tell my fingers. They’ve been undoing SRAM power links once a week for the last 5 years.
RE SRAM some are designed to be undone (9speed gold ones) and some are single use (8 and 10speed)
BezFull MemberPosted 13 years agoAll of my 8, 9 and 10sp ones (which is about 8 bikes’ worth, and the tandem has about half a dozen of them) seem to be of the same design and are perfectly happy being undone. I’ve never come across one which isn’t.
oxym0r0nFull MemberPosted 13 years agoI’m waiting for this:
Could be quite a good 3 speed solution, although looks like bolt through only at the moment 🙁
rootes1Full MemberPosted 13 years agoAll of my 8, 9 and 10sp ones (which is about 8 bikes’ worth, and the tandem has about half a dozen of them) seem to be of the same design and are perfectly happy being undone. I’ve never come across one which isn’t.
http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/sram/dealers/TM_RoadMTB_MY09_E.pdf
10speed powerlock are one time use only and requires removal with chain tool..
but if you are reusing them then that is one in the eye to SRAM!;-)
either way the Wippermann Connex system is easier and the the chains last longer than the SRAM ones
alcookerFree MemberPosted 13 years agoRe chain tensioners. I’ve only ever used a Surly singulator, but is there something I could use to the same effect on the front? Maybe a NC 17 stinger? I have a ISCG 05 mount on my bottom bracket. Will just be tensioning 32 front t 16 or 18 at the rear so shouldn’t need much slack taking up.
TandemJeremyFree MemberPosted 13 years agoeccentric bottom bracket -t ehre are a couple of designs taht can be used in a conventional frame
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