Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 125 total)
  • 1×10 or 1×9 Is there anybody else that does not need dinner plate cassettes?
  • GEDA
    Free Member

    I just do not get this 40 teeth at the back thing and 30 teeth at the front? I never viewed myself as a mutant but it seems that I am as I can get up steep hills with no fuss running an 11X36 cassette and 36t front ring. On the steep stuff if you are in too low a gear you spin out as to get over roots and rocks you need a quick burst of power, slow and spinny just does not work. I do not sit down to climb though and am out of the saddle.

    Just interested if it was only me as find the excitement over that 40 teeth heath Robinson contraption and 10/11 ring cassettes a bit strange.

    ndthornton
    Free Member

    How long are your “steep” hills
    dinner plate size cassette is the only conceivable way 1×10 would work where I ride.

    either you are a mutant or your hills aren’t that……hilly

    clubber
    Free Member

    Can you list out the complete spec of your bikes so that we can pick fault with your choices irrespective of whether it works for you?

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    rob-jackson
    Free Member

    I ride in the peaks and climb most things with an 11-36 and 34t up front, its not unduly hard just requires effort thats all and a modicum of fitness

    alpin
    Free Member

    be interested to see how the OP fairs on long 2-3 hour alpine climbs with average gradient at 15%…..

    chain left!

    5thElefant
    Free Member

    The fact that 3×9 (or 3×8) exist suggests most people are less fit, ride further or live somewhere hillier.

    boxfish
    Free Member

    The steepest parts of the Snowdon Llanberis path were somewhat challenging on 32t front x 36t rear earlier this year. I’m not saying that a 42t sprocket would have made all the difference, but it would have helped!

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    ooo swoons and nearly faints…..

    if only we could all post how awesome we are.

    I ran 1×9 36 -12-34 on a 34lb bike I could ride most things but it took a heap more power and if you came unstuck you were finished on proper hills. It was also a right pain on big long hills (mountains I think they are called) along with rough technical climbs.
    Just because you can doesn’t mean you should.

    ahwiles
    Free Member

    what size wheels have you got?

    1:1 on a 26er is a fairly small gear.

    (but still, it’s a bit bigger than i’d choose for something like porter clough, which due to the loose surface often asks for a bit of seated climbing – to get more grip)

    flyingmonkeycorps
    Full Member

    I’m currently getting on quite nicely with a 30 front / 36 rear, riding in the Peak. I suspect I’ll probably embiggen the front ring when it wears out, but after many years of being used to grannyspinning I decided to err on the side of caution.

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    I can get up steep hills with no fuss running an 11X36 cassette and 36t front ring.

    I ride in the peaks and climb most things with an 11-36 and 34t up front, its not unduly hard just requires effort thats all and a modicum of fitness

    Frankly I’m embarrased to be on the same forum as you, I used to ride the Peak on a 38t single ring and 11-34 cassette (with one of those horrible metal DMR chain devices that continualy jammed) as that’s all that was available before it became fashionable, the chainring off a DH bike and an XC cassete.

    I would however like one of these ‘dinnerplate’ cassetts as after 10 years of riding arround on that and similar setups, one of my knees is utterly FUBAR’d. And that is why they’re a good idea.

    [tongue in cheek]
    They also help fatties with too much money justify to themselves that they ride ‘enduro’ not XC and therefore it’s the marketings fault that they climb slowly, not glandular/big bones/their own fault/lazyness.[/tongue in cheek]

    ndthornton
    Free Member

    Also……

    although grinding your teeth, stood up, tacking your way up a long steep climb might win you man points – its not necessarily the quickest and definitely not the most efficient way to the top of a long climb.

    the tortoise and the hare effect tends to come into play after half a mile or so as I spin leisurely past the early runaways 🙂

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    the tortoise and the hare effect tends to come into play after half a mile or so as I spin leisurely past the early runaways

    On the (regular) occasions I’ve looked at a hill and gotten off and walked from the bottom I’ve overtaken even those who set off in the granny gear halfway once they’ve collpse in a sweaty mess.

    And God said, “The mweak shall inherit the earth”

    cakefacesmallblock
    Full Member

    Well. I did deliberate about going 2×9 and ditching the 44, until I needed to connect two nice offroad bits with 3 miles on tarmac, so kept it. Locally we have really varied terrain, including steep stuff.
    I’m delighted some can climb the seemingly impossible with 36 / 32, I really am.
    Meantime I’ll stay with 44,32,22 and 11 to 34, thanks and if I cant climb with that well I’ll give up get off and push.
    That is until available component choice dictates otherwise.

    robgclarkson
    Free Member

    well done OP you’re much more of a man than me…

    i have a 42 rear cog on both a 1×11 and 1×10 system because:

    1, i love the look/feel/simplicity of 1x system
    2, i do not have the fitness to manage anything less (yes, i’m a bit porky, i only get time to ride maybe once/twice a month)

    why does it bother people so much, what other people do?!? i’ve seen the same arguments for/against:

    full sus
    29ers
    650b
    fully rigid
    single speed
    disk brakes

    just let people get on with it, why/how does it even affect you?

    Northwind
    Full Member

    I’ve never found a section too steep to get up with 11-36/32, or rather, I have found loads but I’d not get up them with a granny ring either.

    But that’s just short bursts which are easy to work with. It’s the long, draggy, ever so slightly too steep climbs that kill me. Like, the drag up past mamore lodge being a perfect example. It’s not that pleasant with a granny frankly!

    If you’re able to get up that sort of thing without too much bother, good for you

    cynic-al
    Free Member

    A lot of AWESOME going on here!

    iffoverload
    Free Member

    reckon i could jog up ben nevis but will probably walk.. 🙄

    chip
    Free Member

    If some one wants to run single up front and 10-42 on the back that’s there prerogative.
    I am not fit enough to go 1x or not affluent enough to go 10-42 depends which way I want to look at it.

    But no bothered , I run double and bash and have no issue with my granny.
    Not to say if I ever got fit enough to lose it I wouldn’t.

    glasgowdan
    Free Member

    The guys who use double/triples and/or 40-42t largest cogs are always so defensive of their setup on this forum. Examples of 2hr alpine ascents are irrelevant as I suspect the total STW climbing done by all members doesn’t consist even 0.1% of this type of riding. They always declare how slow and steady wins the race, comments above like standing out of the saddle is inneficient are made up (ask Contador).

    The guys who use single rings and normal cassettes are quite happy in being able to ride everything a little faster and becoming stronger for it.

    There’s no debate when it comes to personal choices like this really. Nobody is wrong/right. It’s a bit like saying someone’s not using the most efficient type of saddle or shape of bars. It’s personal.

    I never struggle on climbs due to using a 1×10 (36 cog) drivechain, so why would I add the extra weight, shifter, cables, cost (delete as applicable) of such items?

    flyingmonkeycorps
    Full Member

    Northwind – Member
    I’ve never found a section too steep to get up with 11-36/32, or rather, I have found loads but I’d not get up them with a granny ring either.

    But that’s just short bursts which are easy to work with. It’s the long, draggy, ever so slightly too steep climbs that kill me. Like, the drag up past mamore lodge being a perfect example. It’s not that pleasant with a granny frankly!

    If you’re able to get up that sort of thing without too much bother, good for you

    Yeah – I think for weekends away and biggerer mountains I’ll probably whack a granny on there as well. I like that the single ring MAKES me man up and crank though. Grr!

    grum
    Free Member

    There’s no debate when it comes to personal choices like this really. Nobody is wrong/right. It’s a bit like saying someone’s not using the most efficient type of saddle or shape of bars. It’s personal.

    I agree, but let’s be clear here, you are INCREDIBLY AWESOME aren’t you?

    ndthornton
    Free Member

    standing out of the saddle is inneficient are made up (ask Contador).

    I don’t think he has suspension and when he stands up its not for lack of gears – his cadence hasn’t fallen to virtually zero

    Nobody is wrong/right

    I am right 😉

    munrobiker
    Free Member

    It depends where you ride. I’m in the Peak District and have not found anything that would flummox my 32T ring with 11-36 cassette. Round here the dinner plate cassettes would be an advantage in that, if teamed with a bigger ring rather than a 30T, you retain the lowest gear but get a higher gear at the other end.

    If I moved back to the Highlands, though, and was riding mountains all the time like I did, I would definitely consider a dinner plate cassette. Grinding up some of those slopes for 3000ft over 4 miles is hard work and if there’s an alternative I’d consider it.

    I’m not a front mech fan- losing it has cut 1lb from my bike. Saving that much weight that easily is expensive work so a wide range cassette would suit me in that situation.

    mcnultycop
    Full Member

    I run a 30t and 11-36 on the FS and a 32t and 11-36 on the HT. I still “need” an easier gear for long draggy horrible climbs, but can actually get by with what I have now (and much, much prefer the simplicity of 1x).

    When 38 or 40t cassettes (that work with Zee mechs) are affordable I will get one. Now if I know I have a horrible long, long draggy climb on the route I’ll just bolt a granny on (with no mech) and manually swap the chain over. The problem for me is that if I have a granny and a mech I’ll use them too often and never end up getting anywhere, just frantically spinning my legs and achieving less than walking pace. This is due to my fitness levels, admittedly, but if I’m going slower than walking I might as well walk.

    Scapegoat
    Full Member

    What about those of us that are just our for a nice hour or so to enjoy ourselves? I like my 22 36 bottom gear on my “more money than ability” bike. 8)

    kimbers
    Full Member

    geda and rob jackson which one of you is this?

    oliverracing
    Full Member

    It’s personal.

    Can’t agree more – I use a 26-36 double to a 11-36 cassette setup on my XC race bike – mainly because it’s what I like and it means I can generally sit and plod past people grinding up hills with single rings! – But then again on my cyclocross bike I have a 39t chainring to a 11-32 cassette – I never feel short of gears, and ride the same stuff as the XC bike! (minus the drops 😉 )

    I feel either setup is good – both have their merits and downfalls- but they are all fun to ride!

    davosaurusrex
    Full Member

    I’m still running 3×10, I can see all the arguments for and against re: climbing – I have a bad back that doesn’t like being bent forwards too much so being forced to stand and climb more might actually be beneficial to me in more ways than just increasing strength and fitness. What puts me off is the loss of the big ring. Around here (South Downs) there are plenty of descents which whilst not technical are pretty fast at 40mph odd with some pedalling. Going 42-11 to 32-11 seems a hell of a drop for this type of terrain, is it?

    tpbiker
    Free Member

    There are plenty of climbs that I would struggle with 32/36 for any period of time, and I don’t consider myself slow in the grand scheme of things.

    Sooner someone comes up with an affordable single ring option with min 40 tooth cassette then I’ll be converting.

    tpbiker
    Free Member

    There are plenty of climbs that I would struggle with 32/36 for any period of time, and I don’t consider myself slow in the grand scheme of things.

    Sooner someone comes up with an affordable single ring option with min 40 tooth cassette then I’ll be converting.

    GEDA
    Free Member

    I am not saying I am awesome. There are some really really short very steep climbs around me and sitting down spinning does not work for me. I am not very good at it and as I said before spinning sitting on the saddle is not that great for technical climbs as it is hard to move you weight around for the techy bits.

    I always get this wrong though. I am running 11X34 at the back. Proper steep for me is the switch backs up from Honister pass after the quarry. I think I have got up to the second one but that may be wishful thinking. Can’t see how you could do those sitting down unless you bike has different geo than mine as the front end would keep on trying to do a wheelie.

    mrblobby
    Free Member

    I call…

    BoardinBob
    Full Member

    Off the top of my head, my setup is

    36lbs full susser, 1×9, 32T front, 12-36 cassette

    sub-30lbs hard tail, 1×9, 30T N/W front, 11-34 cassette

    Given the differences in weight between the bike, they both feel roughly the same when grinding up climbs in the lowest possible gear combo

    roverpig
    Full Member

    Following some comments on a skills course that I should try to climb in a higher gear to improve traction I’ve been making a conscious effort to stay in the 32T ring for longer and I’ve observed a few things.

    You need more muscle to turn a bigger gear, but don’t need to generate any more power. Power depends on the speed of the bike not the cadence. So, climbing with a higher gear seems hard at first, but once you’ve built up the required muscles it doesn’t actually take any more effort to climb at the same speed with a lower cadence.

    I’ve had a sore lower back for the past few months. Only sore enough to keep me off the bike on a few occasions, but permanently sore. The only thing that I can think that I’ve changed is this switch to lower cadence climbing (although it could just be a coincidence).

    Climbs that last more than a few minutes are still a lot more pleasant in my 24T granny, but maybe I just need more practice.

    I love my granny ring and I aint planning on changing any time soon. If I ever go 1 x 11, I will make sure it has the lowest gearing possible available – you don’t have to use it, but if it aint there, you don’t have the option

    bigjim
    Full Member

    *swoon*

    Northwind
    Full Member

    GEDA – Member

    I am not saying I am awesome. There are some really really short very steep climbs around me and sitting down spinning does not work for me. I am not very good at it and as I said before spinning sitting on the saddle is not that great for technical climbs as it is hard to move you weight around for the techy bits.

    Oh yeah, I mean, that’s exactly where a low gear’s often least useful, you need the short sharp power. Low gears are for reducing effort.

    GEDA
    Free Member

    But you have to spin like crazy or you are going so slow that you have no forward momentum?

    weeksy
    Full Member

    GEDA – Member

    But you have to spin like crazy or you are going so slow that you have no forward momentum?

    Yup, that’s a proper hill.

Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 125 total)

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