1x chainring recommendations for 26er

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  • 1x chainring recommendations for 26er
  • Premier Icon chakaping
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    Personally I couldn’t manage bigger than 32t when I was 1×10 on 26in.

    Quite hilly riding here, might’ve managed a 34t for the shorter climbs back down south.

    Premier Icon Northwind
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    You can work out the ratios, but I’ve ended up on 32- I could make 34 work but i didn’t feel it was a very good tradeoff, I very rarely feel like I need a higher gear than 32-11

    Premier Icon bowglie
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    Ah, that’s good to know! (Ta). We’re in the Dark Peak, so not proper mountainous, but climbs are tough enough for me – whereabouts are you?

    whitestone
    Member

    Use Sheldon Brown’s gear calculator both for your existing setup, a 3×10 for the 26″ and a 1×10 for the 26″ then you’ll get a feel for where the range should lie. You could always swap out one of the cogs for an extender – might look a bit odd on a 26″ wheel though!

    Premier Icon nickc
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    I’m in Hebden and 32t on a 1×10 is enough for my legs

    Premier Icon bowglie
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    I’m currently running 30t chain rings on my 29ers (36t lowest on cassette), which is about the lowest my 53 year old legs can now manage off-road. I’ve picked up a nice 26er frame cheap and would like to build it up with 1×10, and I’m trying to get a similar feeling gear range as my 29er. My guesstimate is that a 34t chainring will give me a similar low gear on a 36 cassette(?)

    Does anyone have experience of this 29/26 1x set-up – if so, could you share your thoughts please.

    TIA

    Premier Icon chakaping
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    Rivington is my local riding.

    maxtorque
    Member

    I’m on 32t at the front, AND i have a dinner plate (42t) at the back!

    #skinnylegs

    Premier Icon Rubber_Buccaneer
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    I looked at the range of gears I had and which I used then went for a 32. I could probably get away with a 34 but decided to keep a nice easy gear for when I’m tired or lazy.

    Premier Icon bowglie
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    Thanks for all the feedback. It sounds like a 32t is the way to go – then if
    my knackered knee/back/shoulder and weedy legs find it too much I’ll bung one of those 40t cogs into the cassette.

    Premier Icon chickenman
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    You could do something radical like divide 29 by 26 and multiply it by 30!!!!!!!! 😯

    nikk
    Member

    On my old 26er, I ran 1×9 32 for a while, then went to 1×10 32. They both seemed fine, with the extra 36 tooth rear on the 10 speed cassette a bonus.

    On the 29er, I started with 32 tooth chainring, and found that a little hard work on long rides with challenging climbs. I switched down to a 28 tooth chainring, and that works fine, only complaint is I am in the 11 tooth small sprocket quite a lot, and tend to wear that side of the cassette out before the other cogs… but then running XT I can replace the 11, 13, and 15 cogs and all is well.

    Gear calc says that 32 chainring on a 26er is equivalent to a 29 tooth chainring on a 29er. For narrow wide you can’t get 29 tooth yet (:-) so 28 or 30 is the choice. I may try 30 at some point to see if I can shift a bit more into the middle of the cassette, but that 28-36 combo is just right for winchy stuff when tired (or unfit).

    Spinning out isn’t a concern if you are doing longer rides. If you do short sprinty type rides, go for bigger chainrings, but TBH if you are peddling a MTB at >20MPH for any length of time on the flat, give team Sky a phone the next TDF waits 🙂

    Premier Icon Suggsey
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    30t with 11-40t cassette for me but I am a bit unfit fat knacker but prefer to ride uphills than walk as it hurts my knees less. 😆

    richardthird
    Member

    I ride SS quite a lot, reasonably fit, on my Anthem 30T 11-36 suits me perfect.

    thegreatape
    Member

    See how some (all?) the 30t rings have the thread machined in, so you only need half your chainring bolt. Will a steel bolt into an aluminium chainring lead to misery, or will a bit of anti-seize compound sort it?

    Premier Icon Rubber_Buccaneer
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    They have the thread machined in on the 30t rings to fit a 104 bc because you need a spacer to stop the chain hitting the crank arms and this spacer is usually incorporated in the ring too. Anti seize would be a good idea.

    thegreatape
    Member

    I assumed that was why, cheers.

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