Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 40 total)
  • 12 spd – wtf
  • brokenbanjo
    Full Member

    I’ve beeen away a few years and have just dusted off my 26” Norco Sight. It’s got 1×10, 32f to 34r and i’ve Never struggled up anything on it. In fact I got up more with that than the 2×10 setup. So why do modern bikes have such stupid gearing? A 50t cog looks grim and negates, for me, the primary benefit of the ‘one by’ setup. Am I just being a grouch or is it a valid observation?

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    Never struggled up anything on it. In fact I got up more with that than the 2×10 setup

    Swoons…..

    A 50t cog looks grim and negates, for me, the primary benefit of the ‘one by’ setup.

    What is that then?

    astormatt
    Free Member

    You are just being a grouch…

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    Oh and welcome back after your break, been anywhere nice?

    brokenbanjo
    Full Member

    For me it made pedalling up hill easier, the lower gears,just lead to a lack of traction or legs just spinning furiously for little gain. 32f to 34r has always been fine for me, more torque, meaning got up things.

    Couple years Illness followed by lack of confidence.

    Northwind
    Full Member

    You’ve got it geared pretty low, that’s why. 1×12 can add gears on either end, my lowest is more or less the same as yours but my highest is usefully higher.

    shortcut
    Full Member

    I have 32 front to 50 rear and use the 50 quite often without slipping out of spinning furiously. And sometimes I still have to walk.

    A lot lot depends on where you ride and for how long.

    nealglover
    Free Member

    Am I just being a grouch

    Well, you are moaning about something that you don’t own, and that you don’t need to use.

    So, yes, probably.

    (they do look a bit odd, but I don’t have 1×12, so I don’t care really)

    Stiggy
    Full Member

    Bigger wheels make a difference to gearing too.

    TrailriderJim
    Free Member

    I’ve beeen away a few years

    Fully rehabilitated and back on the straight and narrow, I hope?

    angeldust
    Free Member

    Yep, being a grouch.  Why would you care about gearing on other bikes?  Upset that everything about your bike is now obsolete? :-).

    molgrips
    Free Member

    So why do modern bikes have such stupid gearing?

    It’s cheaper for manufacturers to spec.  And probably saves a few quid in assembly costs too.

    steve_b77
    Free Member

    I’ve been away a few years and have just dusted off my 26” Norco Sight.

    Found any cracks yet?

    So why do modern bikes have such stupid gearing?

    Well they don’t do they, they have a similar if not greater range than your old 2×10 set-up and I doubt they are stupid in any way, shape or form.

    A 50t cog looks grim and negates, for me, the primary benefit of the ‘one by’ setup. Am I just being a grouch or is it a valid observation?

    How does it look grim? It may look slightly out of proportion with dinky wheels, but hardly grim is it?

    molgrips
    Free Member

    How often did you use the top gear on your 2×10?

    lawman91
    Full Member

    Progress. By the sounds of it, around the time you stopped riding I was running 34×36 1×10 on my Ibis, which I then bodged to 34×40 and then went 34-42 when 11-speed XT came out. My Whyte T130 came with X01 Eagle 1×12. When I first saw the rumors of it online I thought it was a joke. I mean, 50t seriously? I was even tempted to rip it straight off the Whyte and stick with what I knew. Boy was I glad I didn’t! I don’t like to use the term “game-changer”, but it really is ace! I can still run a 34t chainring and have more gearing for speed and lower gearing for climbing. In fact the one time I’ve run a double in the last 7 years was for a C2C challenge and with Eagle I have more range in a lighter, simpler package.

    Besides, I honestly think 11-speed kit from Shimano and Sram is genuinely shit. The Sram stuff just feels cheap and nasty (even the “expensive” stuff) and 11-speed Shimano just feels like it was rushed, XT in particular. Having been a Shimano fan for years, I wouldn’t put anything but Eagle on my bikes these days, despite thinking very much like the OP to start with. You don’t have to run it, and yes, to start with it looks a bit goofy, but try and get used to seeing it and you’ll wonder why you ever doubted it.

    wobbliscott
    Free Member

    Simplicity of use, simplicity of maintenance, parts count reduction, weight reduction, reduction of maintenance and causes for trail breakdowns, no front mech to clog with mud. Aesthetics is as always down to the individual, but a secondary thing, but to my eye there is nowt uglier than the front mech on any bike.

    If you don’t value any of those benefits then fine, stick with your 2x or 3x setup, it’s all good, whatever works for you – nobody’s judging you. No need to feel compelled to change over, unless of course you’re buying a new frame that doesn’t have the ability to run 2x or 3x….but then the benefit of not compromising the frame or suspension geometry to accommodate a front mech will be far more beneficial.

    I prefer the simplicity of a 1x set up so much i’d move over on my road bike too.

    molgrips
    Free Member

    When I first saw the rumors of it online I thought it was a joke. I mean, 50t seriously?

    I had this discussion with a mate who’s specced a new bike with a 50t cassette.  He’s a singlespeeder and a great climber anyway, so I asked him why on earth he went for it.  He gave me an example of trails where he lives (Scotland) that were so steep even he was maxed out on the nose of the saddle to get up them.

    I know of one trail very local to me that is pretty difficult even on 3×9.  I can’t remember having cleared it, but even with one dab I get quite high up on Strava so I don’t think many do.  I’d not expect to clear it in 32/46 unless I was in pretty top form (for me).

    Another advantage to 1x is far more space in the BB area and hence less mud gathering.

    IvanMTB
    Free Member

    Never struggled up anything on it.

    Obviously you must be either Climbing God – what are you doing in such a low level place like STW? – or you are not riding steep enough stuff.

    My current lowest gear on 2×9 set up is giving me 0.61 ration with 22T granny and 36T cassette. With 32T chanring and 50T cassette ratio will go marginally up into 0.64.

    Fully usable for me around Peaks and Lakes. Not struggling on traction or playing hamster wheel either…

    What suits you better I would say. If you are happy with your set-up there is no need for WTF’ing if other people are perfectly OK with 12speed..

    Cheers!

    I.

    plus-one
    Full Member
    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    It does seem daft when you step back and think about what that means dynamically for the bike, anyone who’s ridden a singlespeed will know what a difference it makes to the back end of a hardtail not having a cassette and mech there, it positively skips up bumpy climbs. An 11-50 NX cassette weighs 615g (and the derailleur 320g), throw in a few extra links of chain and you’ve added some loose change short of 1kg of unsprung weight to the rear axle!

    It’s not as heavy as a rohloff, or even an alfine, but then add a gates belt drive to an 11s alfine and the weight differential is now in the order of 100g (alfine is 1550g, approx weight of NX cassette and mech, and a Hope rear hub is 1300g and gates claim to be 100g lighter than a chain).

    Now back when everything was 2×10 no one would seriously consider an alfine for a trail bike, they were far to heavy and reserved only for tourers, shoppers, and bearded evangelists who couldn’t afford a rohloff..

    molgrips
    Free Member

    The thing that would concern me is how close the bottom of that derailleur gets to the rocks and sticks on the ground.  Surely they have a longer cage than in the old days and the size of the cassette means that must end up much closer to the ground…?

    Nobeerinthefridge
    Free Member

    STW shocker! OP hasn’t actually tried what he’s moaning about!

    Whatever next? TJ claiming the biking in the lakes is shite, despite never having actually rode there?……

    brassneck
    Full Member

    Put 12 speed on my new build. The weight difference or where it is, is nothing you notice after about 5 minutes riding.

    However you do notice how nice a 32/50 is when you’re tired out and there’s a horrible steep grassy climb ahead. Could probably go 34 up front and get a bit more top end but happier to keep a bail out for now.

    It doesn’t feel any lower than my previous 2×10 really, never compared the gear inches (think that was 24×36) but it deos feel a whole lot simpler and quieter.

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    Now back when everything was 2×10 no one would seriously consider an alfine for a trail bike, they were far to heavy and reserved only for tourers, shoppers, and bearded evangelists who couldn’t afford a rohloff..

    True, but you have picked the heaviest end of components there for comparison so worst case until Shimano release XT12 😉

    Now I can have a bit that doesn’t need to be designed around a front mech and the freedom that allows people. I can have the GX option for 448g on the cassette which gets me 168g back on your figure there….

    andyl
    Free Member

    <div class=”bbp-reply-author”>molgrips
    <div class=”bbp-author-role”>
    <div class=””>Subscriber</div>
    </div>
    </div>
    <div class=”bbp-reply-content”>

    The thing that would concern me is how close the bottom of that derailleur gets to the rocks and sticks on the ground.  Surely they have a longer cage than in the old days and the size of the cassette means that must end up much closer to the ground…?

    </div>

    That concerns me too. RDs used to have longer cages due to the larger tooth capacity needed of a 3×9 or 3×10 set up but that was dictated by the requirements of being able to pull the chain back enough to take up the slack in the granny ring so the cage was nice and articulated backwards and tucked out of the way (ish).

    Now as you say we have these dinner plate sprockets which mean the cage ends up in positions that was probably not even expected back when they were originally designed. Anyone who goes into some very rocky terrain or overgrown foliage in the lowest gears is really risking ripping it off.

    philjunior
    Free Member

    For me it made pedalling up hill easier, the lower gears,just lead to a lack of traction or legs just spinning furiously for little gain.

    1) Choose the right gear out of the ones you have.

    2) Try it on steeper, longer climbs.

    I’m still on 2×10 on one bike as it gets taken out up long steep stuff, sure there are plenty of places where at that incline you’ll spin out, but there are plenty where you won’t, too.

    You’re being a grouch. (50T does look stupid until you get used to it though)

    wobbliscott
    Free Member

    I don’t think cage length is an issue. Most people are riding larger wheeled bikes anyway and if you’ve got your chain length correct then the cage angles forward in first gear and not straight down, and when it is angled forward you’re further down the cassette so the clearance is fine. Long cage mechs on 26″ wheeled bikes were bloomin’ close to the ground and it wasn’t a problem back then.

    fotorat
    Free Member

    I am happy with 7 speed 11-28 and ZEE  mech

    molgrips
    Free Member

    Ok but some people talk about rear mechs as if they are a consumable. I’ve never ripped one off, but then I use 9sp.  Is everyone an oaf, or is it really more of an issue with 11sp?

    Re gearing, I am using 1×9 on a 29er with a 30T ring.  On some fast road descents I run out of gear, but I stopped caring about beating 45mph on those when I was a teenager.  Speed on technical fun descents is what I now enjoy and 30t up front is plenty for those.  I can be in the two smallest sprockets on the roads to and from the trail, and as soon as I get over the anxiety that I’ve ‘nearly run out of gears’ it’s not an issue.

    So I’m still not convinced of the need for 50T, I’d rather get my low gears by reducing my chainring size.

    Nobeerinthefridge
    Free Member

    Ok but some people talk about rear mechs as if they are a consumable. I’ve never ripped one off, but then I use 9sp. Is everyone an oaf, or is it really more of an issue with 11sp?

    More of an issue with what type of riding you do, rather than being an oaf. You seem to like longer duller xc type riding, almost gravel type stuff. Some folk like tight, steep heathery, or rocky stuff, course it’s gonna be different.

    molgrips
    Free Member

    I like it all.  Done plenty of steep and tight and rocky.

    andyl
    Free Member

    and don’t forget to switch to an oval ring so you can use a 32T but it feels like a 30T on the climbs but has the speed of a 34T on the downs 😉

    sbob
    Free Member

    Just got my first 1x bike having come from a triple.
    The chain line is cringe worthy and I run out of gears. Not entirely convinced.

    andyl
    Free Member

    haha, yeah it doesnt exactly feel like progress at times.

    I have stuck with 3×10 on my Solaris as it’s my mile munching bike. Play LT 26″ bike has 1×11, as does the 650b FS. Almost went 1×12 Eagle GX but couldnt face losing dual action up shift of shimano and I don’t really need the 10-50 range. Have stuck with 11-50 sunrace.

    daern
    Free Member

    The thing that would concern me is how close the bottom of that derailleur gets to the rocks and sticks on the ground.  Surely they have a longer cage than in the old days and the size of the cassette means that must end up much closer to the ground…?

    This is a 1×12 Eagle conversion (i.e. 10-50 cassette) that I did on an XS framed 26″ bike:

    It doesn’t look too low to my eyes, and certainly much less so than the rear mech on an Islabike Beinn 20, which collect grass like you wouldn’t believe!

    The rider reports no problems and, in fact, is completely overjoyed with it. She particularly loves the fact that her gears are now so much simpler – so much so that she reports getting the right gear for the right terrain more often than she used to with the 2×10 that this setup replaced.

    (In her particular case, the decision was made based on her having arthritis in her left hand which was making front-mech shifting increasingly difficult, but she says that she would have gone 1×12 regardless having now ridden it for a few weeks)

    shortbread_fanylion
    Free Member

    brokenbanjo – wait till you hear about these e-bike things. Some chubbers ride them and have a 50t cassette on the back!

    martinhutch
    Full Member

    The mech on my 1×11 (11-46) is folded right back out of the way on the smaller sprockets. On the biggest it is pulled forward at 45 degrees as in the picture above. It is a medium cage as opposed to the long cage I needed to run on my old triple. I don’t see how it is any more vulnerable, probably quite a bit less than a long cage mech on a 26 wheel.

    molgrips
    Free Member

    The mech on my 1×11 (11-46) is folded right back out of the way on the smaller sprockets.

    Possibly even further back than if you were middle of the block and big ring on a 3×9 setup, then.  Interesting, this is good news.  I have been considering going to 1×11 on the big bike, which is still 26 so this makes me feel better.

    Northwind
    Full Member

    <div class=”bbp-reply-author”>molgrips
    <div class=”bbp-author-role”>
    <div class=””>Subscriber</div>
    </div>
    </div>

    <div class=”bbp-reply-content”>

    I had this discussion with a mate who’s specced a new bike with a 50t cassette.  He’s a singlespeeder and a great climber anyway, so I asked him why on earth he went for it.  He gave me an example of trails where he lives (Scotland) that were so steep even he was maxed out on the nose of the saddle to get up them.

    The second year of the Dudes of Hazard enduro at kinlochleven more or less coincided with the first splurge of mainstream 1x drivetrains, and the horrible road up into the mamores was basically covered in dead people for whom 1×10 with a 36 was definitely their ideal gear right up til that moment. Basically everyone thinks their setup is great for everything but it just means everything they’ve tried so far, there’s pretty much always something worse coming up.

    </div>

    stevomcd
    Free Member

    We were chatting towards the end of this summer season about how we seem to have far fewer mechanicals to deal with on the trail these days, compared to when we started out 10 years or so ago. The biggest difference is probably brakes. 10 years ago, probably as many as half the people who came out to ride with us would have brake issues, generally related to over-heating, either directly through boiling the brakes completely and losing braking half-way down a trail, or indirectly through getting them too hot repeatedly and needing constant bleeds, damaging seals, etc. Now boiled brakes are pretty much a thing of the past, thanks to both better brakes and most people also using bigger rotors.

    The other big difference we reckon is down to 1x drive-trains. We almost never have to deal with major chain / rear-mech issues any more. The biggest reason for that is the vastly superior chain-retention. Back in the day, when riding fast on rough, Alpine terrain, you pretty-much just accepted that your chain would be off half the time. You would do a couple of pedal strokes coming into every corner to lift the chain back on before you had to accelerate out. Because the chain was off so much, you were very likely to crank the power on at some point while the chain was derailed and end up embedding it in the spokes or wrapping it round the rear mech. Sure, you could go 2x and use a duallie chain device, but they were pretty shit. 1x, with narrow-wide rings and the ability to run a top chain-guide has lead to near-perfect chain retention and massively fewer mechanicals as a result.

Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 40 total)

The topic ‘12 spd – wtf’ is closed to new replies.