Are you loosening the correct stop (limit) screw? Not accidentally wound the wrong one out?

It’s nothing to do with top or bottom limits the mech simply can’t reach 11tth gear as the gap between the gear cable arm and the hole the gear cable comes out of closes to almost nothing before it gets there.

Here’s some pics

In “Top”

In 2nd

This is in 2nd – I can’t get 1st because the gap closes up and the leverage just isn’t there to move the mech any further.

I’m pretty sure the only options I have are to either shave the hanger or find someone to make me a new direct mount link with a 3.5mm offset to fix the issue. I don’t suppose anyone makes one already do they?

What’s the frame? Is it possible that the “mech hanger” is simply out of alignment and is too far from the centreline of the bike?

scotroutes – Member
What’s the frame? Is it possible that the “mech hanger” is simply out of alignment and is too far from the centreline of the bike?

I’m pretty sure that’s exactly the problem (the hanger is 8mm wide out from the 142mm face rather than the 135mm face where , by rights, it ought to be) but speaking to the builder it’s the same design of dropout he’s been using since he started and he’s only had a few have this issue so I’m wondering if it’s specific to my transmission choice/vintage and trying to figure out what the lowest impact way of fixing it is. He has now fixed it for ongoing production and I like him so I’m not going to name him to save any embarrassment.

THIS Video
[video]https://youtu.be/OGfCEylmxpw[/video]

of an alternative Goat link type thing being fitted to an SLX equiped bike suggests that there’s a narrower link piece and washer that if compatible would solve the problem by simply switching the washer to the other side. Does anyone have a dead DM Mech with one of these I could buy and try?

AH! Just had a brain wave – I’ve got an old Zee mech I bought to resurrect my DH bike that I haven’t got around to that looks to have the right bits – I’ll cannibalise that and see if I can sort this with that.

Embarrassing him or not he sold you a frame “some people have had issues with” so it’s a known problem but he happily took your money anyway? I’d not be pleased about that even if i did “like him”

Looks like bscrew to me in this pics although the one that would make that obvious is too dark to say for certain. Also I’d say your cable outer is too short which will cause other shifting issues. 142 and 136 terminate at the same width so that’s not an issue. The difference is purely in where they measure to. Many bikes can swap the dropouts and the internal dimension is the same either way on the frame.

Can you not get the builder to face the gear hanger down to size?
Also I think there are some pics of your bike on his site but could be wrong…
If it is built by who I think he seemed a nice guy when I met him I’m sure he could sort that out easy enough.

He has now fixed it for ongoing production and I like him so I’m not going to name him to save any embarrassment.

How long ago did you discover that the frame was out of spec? Just thinking that it woyld have been handy to mention that before the collective “brains of STW started trying to figure out what was wrong 🙂

I’d be asking the frame maker to fix it for me rather than bodging up something that might come back to haunt me later.

Here’s a shot of my tallboy (M9000 cassette and mech):

Note how your fixed drop-out sets the mech further out from the outer edge of the cassette. I suspect that this exceeds the available tolerance for

This isn’t bang up to date (it’s mostly 10 speed, but I think the tolerances are the same for 11 speed):
http://pictoview.shimanoweb.com/ebook/cycle/en/us/oem/Frame%20Requirements/pdf/Frame%20Requirements%2027-96.pdf
Page 27 discusses the thickness of the dropout – i.e. the distance from the end of the hub axle (excluding any recess) and the mech mounting face which should be no more than 8mm. I’ve measured mine and it’s around 7.5mm:

[img]https://i.imgur.com/QokKAZK.png[/img]

I’d be interested in what your matching measurements are…

If your dropout is too far out, how about trying something like this?
RoadLink

The question was originally because I was the first to have this problem, I guess there have been some others since. The odd thing is that some others running exactly the same setup as me don’t have the problem which is why I was wondering if it was something specific to my vintage of mech.

Sorry if that wasn’t clear.

which is why I was wondering if it was something specific to my vintage of mech

Given that it’s obviously a Starling from the design…

Of the two people I know who ordered frames from them, one turned up looking like a banana & the other was welded so pissed and badly it didn’t need to be anywhere near a jig to confirm, i’m going on a tolerance issue with the frame.

Given that it’s obviously a Starling from the design…

Just to give a counter-point, I’ve not had any issues with mine with the gearing etc. Although I’m running a SRAM mech on a hope 10-44, whether the shape of the mech means it get a bit more clearance I don’t know.

(sorry just saw you spoke to the builder so ignore my last message)

daern – Member
Here’s a shot of my tallboy (M9000 cassette and mech):

Thanks Daern that’s very helpful. I’ll see if my Zee based bodge works later. Here’s hoping Shimano keep the same standards for that link piece across all mech types.

Just a thought….

Can you remove the direct mount link and attach the bolt nearest the derailleur cable directly to the frame?

Looks like you might have clearance without it fouling the cassette and it would bring the mech in? Might work with a bit of b-screw adjustment to clear the casette?

Sorted 😀

As I thought the Zee dogbone & washer combo is a direct swap for the XTR dogbone and the 3.5mm washer when switched sides gave me just the right amount of movement to align everything correctly and get all the gears. See pics below.

Now it’s just a matter of testing it out but damn the 40T gearing feels low! What must Eagle be like????

If you fit a grown up chainring it’s much better 😉 . The whole point of the 40+ t rear sprocket is so you don’t have to run a baby chainring at the front, giving you better range at the faster end of the block. Try a 36t chainring and you’ll find the 40t is much more normal.