- 10mm rear axles
I converted pro2s and DT240, for the cost (2 bike, less than £30 all in with 2nd hand parts/diy and inc. DT RWS bolt thrus) I would always do it, with all the strength and stiffness in the rest of the bikes then just having a 100mm+ long 5mm thick rod of steel or titanium clamping axles together seems compeletely daft.Posted 4 years ago
If 5mm is OK on the rear WTF do you need 15mm or 20mm on the front for?mrmonkfingerMember
Completely different axle & frame structures, comparing front with rear. As TINAS says, only side-side deflection is worth caring about at the back. Front has to cope with more, so the complete wrap-around clamp in a full on 20mm provides more stiffness than a QR.
At the rear, the QR is just clamping the frame to the hub, the hub invariable already a nice big hollow tube and some nice big flat surfaces for the frame to be clamped on to. If the QR can keep it nice and tight, you’re golden.
So the key point at the back is to ensure the QR doesn’t stretch. A girt big 10mm bolt thru will allow practically no stretch = best. A standard 5mm rod will be (relatively) easier to stretch, but in reality its the QR mechanism itself that will allow the most “stretch”, with crapola plastic QR external cams being the worst, and a metal cam better.
5mm all metal QR = better than a 10mm plasticky QR.
bolt up = better than QR
DT RWS are a pretty good (if pricey) answer, as they’re basically a bolt up with a nice handle.Posted 4 years agoNorthwindSubscriber
Depends mostly on the frame tbh- like, I had a 10mm in one bike, noticable difference, changed frame to a much stiffer one, no noticable difference. So if you’ve got a flexy frame- and more importantly, if you care, because it’s not as simple as flex = bad… Then maybe it’s worth it.Posted 4 years ago
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