the most efficient cadence is the one that feels right for you

pretty much what convert says. Done the sums, and 28x 10-42 would give me basically the granny and middle of my 3×9 setup. Losing a gear at the top end wouldn’t matter much. I tend to ride most of the time in the big ring, and end up spinning the granny to winch up hills for 20mins to 3 hours at a go depending where I am. That’s all assuming 26inch. Would have to choose a different chainring for 29 I expect, and guessing that 650b would barely matter. unless it’s that other 27+ “fashion”

I’ve a 3×9 set up on my 26″ soul, lowest is 22-32. I can spin that bottom gear quite nicely on the steep stuff, and wouldn’t really want to be any higher.

On my scandal I went 2×10, 26-36 is lowest. That takes a bit of pushing uphill compared to the soul, but I wouldn’t necessarily say it’s any harder, just different. You build more momentum and carry more speed, so it just sort of ticks along.

But I reckon I could lose the big ring on the soul, as for the type of riding I do with it I barely ever use it. A clutch mech would be nice though, shame they don’t exist for 9spd.

I may get a full sus frame, in which case I was thinking I’d go 1×10, but maybe not…….

Do you genuinely think they have the best interests of other people at their heart

Obviously they’re looking after their shareholders, but, yeah I ‘genuinely’ think that most designers set out to build a better mousetrap. Weird huh? 😆

1X11 works for a ‘lot’ of people and it won’t for another ‘lot’. c’set la vie.

EDIT: forgot, mostly for me (and I’m a resolutely average mountain biker BTW), I run out of gears at the other end!

That is true – often overlooked advantage of 1X

The negative posts here include a lot of if’s. The maths stack up for ratio’s, if you get the opportunity, try it.

Losing the front mech and moving my reverb control makes up for losing a little bit of gearing.

Sometimes working a bit harder results in some improvements to your fitness.

Last year I would not have entertained a 1x set up.

If someone can make a 1×11 that has a 9-56 tooth cassette, then if I’ve done the sums right, that’d go nicely with a 36t chainring and give me the ratio range I desire. 3×9 with no overlaps must be a bonus surely?

Guessing I’d need a Rohloff and the right ring/sprocket to get that?

I think this is a big reason why people do it TBH. The weight saving reason is bollox.

yeah… making space for new fangled semi-fat tyres 😉

went from 3×9, to 1×11. Not found anything I can no longer climb. more than happy with it.

nickc, the 26″ bike used to have a 32t. In the last five years I’ve gone:

3×9 (42-32-22 11-32)
2×9 (36-22 11-32)
2×9 (36-22 11-34)
2×9 (32-22 11-34)
1×9 (32 11-34)
1×10 (32 11-36)
1×10 (33 11-36)
1×10 (34NW 11-36)

Been on 1×10 for about 3 years, the last set-up for 2 years. Had the 27.5 full-sus 18 months, swapped from 34NW to 32NW 9 months ago.

I find a front mech is alright for trail centre riders who ride smooth terrain and therefore aren’t so worried about their chain slapping around. However, for riding real mountains in the lakes, I have found a 1x setup to be a revelation.

On difficult terrain, the main problem is traction rather than gearing and so even if you have lower gearing you end up not using it or your wheel will spin.

Both systems have their compromises so there will be people who will always prefer one over the other. I’m not sure what there is “not to get” though.

Chief, your progression isn’t hugely different to me! Only I’ve stopped here:

1×10 (32 11-36)

but with an NW ring.

happy with it, but might try a 34T to regain a bit at the high end

Have you tried 3×10 with a clutch mech? done a lot of rocky riding on mine and never had a drop, the fact i can put it in the big ring cuts noise from chainslap on the chainstay compared to my 1×10 bike with its smaller ring.

Terrain such as drainage gaps can require you to hold a higher speed or higher gear for a ‘punch’ of speed. But these scenario are not all the time tho, and having a lower gear is always nice regardless.

+

I’ll have to take your word on that……….

I was at c-y-b on Saturday, riding my prehistoric bike with 3×9, and found that I did lose the chain a bit, and didn’t use the big ring, so 2×10 with clutch mech would probably be a bit better option, but I ride all over the place, on the same bike, so having options is best for me. There will always be compromises, but for now I’d rather have more gears, and drop the occasional chain, than less.

And this ‘far less on the bars’ stuff is rather exaggerating the matter, you lose one cable, and one shifter, shimano sit neatly under brakes anyway, so hardly any difference. It just allows you a nicer dropper remote position.

Easy answer fashion led crap forced on us poor mountain bikers.
Real answer genuine change in thinking that works slagged off by people who have never tried it or can’t do the maths.

I rode up a particular hill near me on my old 3×9 bike 2 days before getting my new bike with 1×11. I can happily say, I got up with both, sometimes ‘wishing’ I had just one more gear – but don’t we all think that occasionally ?
If your bike comes with 1×11 then you are VERY lucky. If you want to add it to your current bike -don’t !! It’s far too expensive. Simples !
As a rider who was always sooo reluctant to move away from 8 speed, I can honestly say I absolutely LOVE my 1×11 more than anything I’ve ridden.

I went 3×10 with 10-36 to 1×10 32T with 10-36 over a year ago and I’ve found that I immediately just got further up awkward stuff to begin with because of the momentum carried into it with 1×10 and not having to do an emergency granny shift that could drop a chain has been amazing.

I also found that traction is the limiting factor with any setup. If it’s so steep the 1×10 won’t do it the 3×10 wouldn’t have done it either, I found.

I ride the mountains in North Wales plus the normal TC stuff. Anything I’ve got off and walked has been because no bike would get up it or I’m at an Enduro race and pushing up is just plain fashionable + saves energy. I pretty much have to fall off before I’ll give in and push when I’m out on solo rides. I get really annoyed with myself if I didn’t manage a climb and I’ll go back to the bottom and try again.

I will admit that certain very long climbs, say over 3 miles, on uphill fire roads or when you’re very tired can be a little draining but the 1×10 system has made me fitter. Winter can be challenging too but it’s great for fitness.

I love 1×10. Saves weight. Chain never comes off. Looks better. You make better use of all the cassette cogs. It’s cheap and easy to maintain if you stick to 1×10 and buy XT cassettes, SRAM chains and a N/W chainring. Job lot wearable drive-train costing £33+£16+£35. Switch the chain every 450 to 650 miles and it never misses a beat.

I’m running 26 inch wheels and I’m happy riding Jumps, Drops, AM, XC, Trail, Enduro, DH or Free ride. It’s just Mountain Biking for fun.

I was just trolling the troll. Not serious at all. 😀

Are you saying people are doping? 😉