1 x 10 users…..views for a hilly NW and Zee users thoughts

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  • 1 x 10 users…..views for a hilly NW and Zee users thoughts
  • banks
    Member

    I’m using a full guide but others have got away without one, depends how smooth a rider you are i guess. Also, i regret going 33t up front, going to look at putting a 30t ring on the perhaps

    b r
    Member

    Hello considering a new build and looking at a 1 x 10 zee set up with a 36 front ring, based on cost really, live in the hilly NW england nr dales/calerdale so will 1 x 10 be a suitable range……..on a 3 x 9 I use all gearing, will i miss it?

    Yep, you’ll be walking a fair bit…

    Premier Icon jam bo
    Subscriber

    33t works fine in the hilly SW. 1000ft climbing/10miles on average.

    Forces you to suck it up and get on with it.

    Premier Icon vondally
    Subscriber

    b r ……………….what feared 😥

    Premier Icon ratherbeintobago
    Subscriber

    I’m thinking of going from 3×9 (with a 32t cassette) to 1×10 (with 36) and I live on the flat plains of E Lancs. I’d been thinking about 34t on the front – is this excessively brave?

    Andy

    andyrm
    Member

    I ran 36t all last season and will again on this season’s new bike. Was absolutely fine even out in Finale with 45min+ steep climbs.

    You just need to get used to pushing a bigger gear and get stronger.

    ska-49
    Member

    I’ve been running 1×9/10 on all my builds for 3 years. Bought a new bike recently that came with 2×10 and its brilliant! Not sure why I ever bothered to go to 1×10.. The gear range is better and with the new clutch mechs there isn’t any more dropped chains. I realise that it’s more weight, more expensive, more faf to replace and doesn’t looked as radcore.

    Premier Icon vondally
    Subscriber

    Hello considering a new build and looking at a 1 x 10 zee set up with a 36 front ring, based on cost really, live in the hilly NW england nr dales/calerdale so will 1 x 10 be a suitable range……..on a 3 x 9 I use all gearing, will i miss it?

    Zee users any thoughts, do i need a chain guide? ALternatives?

    Premier Icon ratherbeintobago
    Subscriber

    The gear range is better

    In the best STW tradition, I’ve worked it out – 1×10 loses about one gear off the top and one off the bottom compared with 2×10, which in turn is about one off the top and one off the bottom less than 3×9, so there’s not that much in it.

    Andy

    Mackem
    Member

    I’ve got 32t plus zee in hilly basque country, so far no problems, but I am thinking of getting a 30t for summer proper when I’ll be in the Pyrenees proper.

    As for Chain guide, I’m using a bash and a N-gear jump stop – not dropped a chain yet.

    Premier Icon ratherbeintobago
    Subscriber

    How easy is it to get chainrings less than 32t? I thought they didn’t fit on 104mm BCD cranks?

    Premier Icon vondally
    Subscriber

    ratherbeintobago….i salute you sir……i think i can cope with losing that………maybe…………

    Mackem
    Member

    There’s been a few threads about companies doing them now.

    For example…. http://wolftoothcomponents.com/

    Premier Icon ratherbeintobago
    Subscriber

    Aye, a lot of the options for <32t chainrings seem to involve having SRAM detachable spider cranks, though I’m sure I saw something about grinding down the chainring tabs (!)…

    Jeffus
    Member

    I’ve been running 1 x 10 36 to 36-11 xt with an e-13Lg1+ has been fine climbs are ok just don’t expect to fly

    Premier Icon vondally
    Subscriber

    just want to get there…………have another bike for more rapidity, in theory 8)

    Jeffus
    Member

    Forgot to say bike is a 32lb SC Butcher wih 36’s up front 😀

    rob jackson
    Member

    I ride a pitch taht must be 32lbish with coil lyriks in the Peak district. I ride 33 up front and 11-34 on the back (as i was too tight to buy an 11-36 cassette)
    Some climbs are tough but not undoable

    Premier Icon spxxky
    Subscriber

    Riding HT 39 x 11 – 28 with Zee and Superstar XCR ST Single Ring Chainguide round Rivy – No probs 🙂

    b r
    Member

    In the best STW tradition, I’ve worked it out – 1×10 loses about one gear off the top and one off the bottom compared with 2×10, which in turn is about one off the top and one off the bottom less than 3×9, so there’s not that much in it.

    What are you comparing to, a 3×9 with a 34 cassette, or a 32?

    Either way one gear higher than you need means a walk…

    ianfitz
    Member

    If you want to geek out at gear ratios this is spot on!

    http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/

    Premier Icon ratherbeintobago
    Subscriber

    What are you comparing to, a 3×9 with a 34 cassette, or a 32?

    To be clear, comparing 3×9 with a 32 cassette to 40/28 and a 36, to 34 and a 36.

    22/36 is a very low gear; not sure I actually *need* one that low.

    glasgowdan
    Member

    Use a 32 up front. I can’t remember spinning out on 32/11 and have no idea why any trail bike going 1×10 would require a 36 up front unless you’re a racing whippet.

    Premier Icon vondally
    Subscriber

    based on what merlin are selling………….

    Shimano Zee 10 Speed Chainset, Ideal for any 1 x 10 set-up.

    Supplied with a Shimano 36t Single Chainring and Shimano SM-BB51 Bottom Bracket.

    banks
    Member

    Anyone tried & been successful in running a 30t 104 chain ring up front. Looks like WTC do a compatible chainring but its a lot of money for just a chain ring or is it different cranks

    Premier Icon captaindanger
    Subscriber

    I ride 32 up front and 11-36 cassette, if anything I’d rather have a smaller chainring but as above this isn’t really possible with most chainsets. As glasgowdan says, I have never spun out, on or off road, and I’m not that slow I don’t think.

    Each to their own though, I do probably spin faster than some. I think that’s a better technique than learning to push slower up hills though, look at track cyclists and that, they’re well fast with their very high cadences

    Stevelol
    Member

    Im in Huddersfield and run 1 x 10 with a 30t and 12 to 36 cassette. Anyone can pedal this gearing around calderdale as I’ve been running it for a couple of years and have had pretty poor fitness. I’m moving up to 32t now as theyre cheaper and I’m fitter. I run mine (Andersen machine chainring) on xt m770 cranks, you have to file an angle on to the chainring tabs but it’s v easy, you just need a file and a vice.

    Premier Icon ratherbeintobago
    Subscriber

    For reasons known only to FSA, my cranks (Afterburners) have a carbon spider. Don’t really fancy filing that 😛

    banks
    Member

    Spot on Cheers Steve! 1×10 is bob on but day in day out its hard going so been choosing the ht and barely riding the covert.

    Premier Icon ratherbeintobago
    Subscriber

    As an aside, those of you who’ve gone 1×10 – how much of the dreaded single-ring chainsuck do you get? Due to local filth, get two-ring suck lots between granny/middle, and occasionally between middle/big which is one of the reasons I’m thinking about changing.

    Mugboo
    Member

    I’ve spent winter avoiding the bottom two rings on my c456 (22/36 11/32), I am now riding my Mega with 1×10 32 11/36. I occasionally have to push where I may have previously made the climb. On today’s ride the only time I pushed, all my 2×9 friends pushed too.

    I like having less choice but I genuinely believe that the minuscule weight loss is only worth it if you need new gear anyway & you are strong and reasonably fit.

    I’m in Brighouse by the way.

    andyrm
    Member

    Never had any chain suck issues at all, I think a lot of that is down to chain wear TBH.

    I was running 36/11-36 on a 140/160 AM bike – just doing same on new 180mm AM bike.

    Stevelol
    Member

    I’ve never had chain suck.

    Premier Icon mikewsmith
    Subscriber

    all depends on you…

    Whats your cadence like? I can’t do high speed spinning so don’t really get on lower than a 36, like to have the 22/24 there to help. I did 1×9 with a 36 for about 18 months, I got much stronger but it just wasn’t worth it as I also pushed a lot.

    Premier Icon kayak23
    Subscriber

    Pretty small front rings below.. 😯

    Much smaller than a 32t up front and you start getting into the above territory I’d have thought.

    I use a 32t up front and a 36t rear. If ever I need to push then chances are walking will be just as quick as any lower gearing than that..

    mattbibbings
    Member

    I’m going from a 2x 9speed set up to a 1x 10spd set up. From the tables below taken from sheldon brown you can see I will lose my three lowest gears. However, the flip side is my bike will be a whole pound lighter for losing the shifter, mech, granny, bolts and bb mount roller guide. So swings and roundabouts. I’m doing it for simplicity sake. I reasoned that I am carrying around a pound of bike that I only ever use a few times a year. I believe the future is the XX1 system.

    [/url] image by mattbibbings, on Flickr[/img]

    [/url] image by mattbibbings, on Flickr[/img]

    I ride 1×10. 32 & 11-36.

    If there’s something so steep I’d need a smaller chainring, I think I’d struggle to keep the front wheel on the ground…or wheelie up the hill like a chav!

    Premier Icon unklehomered
    Subscriber

    I recently built up my new Meta AM 1 by 9, to see how it was, before I bought the 10sp chainset, and I have now gone for the Zee 1 by 10, it will give me one lower gear, which will be nice, I also run a 36, and find that fine for climbs around nidderdale, middlesmoor – nought bank – knott etc. Lofthouse and peat lane are pretty horrific, but they’re horrific climbs…

    If I go biking in Molina or somewhere I will likely get a 32t chain ring as the long road climbs will need kill me on a 36

    Crag
    Member

    I’ve been 1*9 using a 36t chainring 36t cassette on the hardtail for about a year now and tbh, it’s not very often I don’t get up the climbs that I used to get up with the granny ring but these do take a bit more effort.

    Recently gone 1*10 on the full sus with the Zee set up and have a 34t chainring, thinking being that the bike is about 5-6 pounds heavier so climbing will be more of a hassle. Its early days but so far so good. In fairness, my front mech was always full of crud anyway so seldom dropped the chain onto the granny ring and was pretty much ornamental.

    clubber
    Member

    I’ve just got back from a weekend’s riding in Wales. I’m very unfit at the moment but found that 1×10 was pretty spot on. I’ve got a 34t front ring and 11-36 at the back on a hardtail 29er. There were a couple of times where I’d have probably used an easier gear if I’d had it but I didn’t really need to and managed fine.

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