XT Triple to XTR Double And 44/32/24 to 40/28 or 40/30 Will I Notice?

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  • XT Triple to XTR Double And 44/32/24 to 40/28 or 40/30 Will I Notice?
  • dantsw13
    Member

    IMHO, you will only miss the 44 on the road. You may well miss the 24 more, as you will no longer have a “bail out” option for steep hills.

    I have an X0 2×10 with 39/26. The 39 is plenty for Downhill. At first the 26 was very noticeably harder then the 22 granny on the 3×10 it replaced, but Ive got used to it.

    Unless you are a very strong rider, I’d suggest the 30 is too big, and the 28 will be hard work on steep stuff.

    HTH

    neninja
    Member

    I’m running XT M785 40/28 on my hardtail – I’m not a strong rider but have got up everything I’ve tried so far. I spend 90% of my time on the 40 and only use the 28 for steep, long climbs as I tend to spin a higher cadence.

    If I was going to the Lakes or somewhere with lots of very steep hills I think I’d want a 26 inner ring.

    Premier Icon curiousyellow
    Subscriber

    I’d not consider myself a strong rider, but I’m usually quickest up the hill in our group. Different matter going downhill though!

    Ok, so 40/28 seems to be the way forward. I’m being told that I’ll need a new front derailleur because the 2×10 derailleur will not work as well with the old 3×10 derailleur. Any rationale to that? Am thinking it’s something to do with the chainline?

    Premier Icon curiousyellow
    Subscriber

    Seen a decent deal for an XTR double and thinking about swapping over from my existing XT triple (44/32/24 I think).

    Never spend that much time in the 44. I prefer to stay in the 32 even going downhill, so seems to make sense to get rid of it.

    I want to know if I will notice the difference from XT to XTR and the difference from 44/32/24 to 40/28 or should I plump for 42/30? Tempting to go 40/28, just to know it’s there, even if I don’t need it 90% of the time.

    Any advice/experience sharing welcome! Thanks.

    b r
    Member

    Putting an 11-36 on the rear I guess?

    Just work out the gear-inches and that’ll give you an idea. Then when next out only go down to the lowest gear you’ll have left.

    Premier Icon curiousyellow
    Subscriber

    Yeah 11-36 on the rear 🙁

    Will get to work on working out the gear inches. Wishing I’d been a bit less hasty upgrading now. Aaargh!

    dantsw13
    Member

    It’ll work fine with the old front mech. Use the Hi/Lo stops to keep it to a single movement.

    Premier Icon jameso
    Subscriber

    Got an XTR 985 double in good nick and BNIB FD if you’re interested, MIP.

    The Beard
    Member

    I just switched from 3×9 (44/32/22) to 2×9 (40/28). I’ve been out a few times and I’ve noticed that I’m shifting between the 40 and 28 a lot more than I used to shift between the 44 and 32 on the old triple. Certainly don’t miss the granny ring, but then I hardly ever used it anyway. I’ve got a 9 speed 11-32 cassette on the back, which I may end up regretting!

    The only issue I have is that the chain length when set as per SRAM’s instructions does seem to extend the mech a fair bit when in 40F 32R, so I’ve been avoiding using the lower gears when in the 40 and dropping to the 28 but keeping it mid cassette, this is probably a good thing though.

    I did need a new front mech too as I have an e-type mech and the triple specific mech was the wrong shape for the double chainset, it sat way too high off the chain rings and wasn’t working that well.

    Premier Icon curiousyellow
    Subscriber

    Cheers. I’ll keep that in mind.

    Hoping this is not going to become something I regret!

    @jameso cheers for the offer. I’ve got a decent deal on an XT front mech and crankset, but I have a mate who’s interested in switching to 10 speed. I’ll run it by him if you give me a price.

    Premier Icon davetrave
    Subscriber

    Running 42/30 here, was fitted as part of the spec on a new bike a couple of years ago when I was still realtively racy and so the 42 got a reasonable amount of use. (Much) Less racing and more riding for fun currently = not quite as strong in the legs to push the big ring so spending most time in the 30 and whereas before I could get up pretty much most stuff in 30/36 I’m considering fitting 40/28 to get a more useable and less racy spread of gearing and an easier 28/36 for steep ups..

    Premier Icon curiousyellow
    Subscriber

    Hmmm…. These stories are making me wonder if I can swap the 28 for the 24! Or even hold off on this entirely!

    I run a 39/26 with an 11-34 cassette on my carbon HT. I ride in the Peaks so go up some steep stuff. I’m a light-weight and fairly quick on the ups. This set-up is fine, but I’d need more gears on my heavier FS. Like an earlier poster said, work out your gear ratios now and compare to what you are planning.

    A double specific front mech will better suit the narrower spread of gears. When I first went for a double chainset a triple mech looked wrong but it worked.

    Premier Icon curiousyellow
    Subscriber

    I think the race bike has a 2×10 X9 setup. I’ll thrash that around a bit and see how I cope.

    To be honest, I only ever slip into the 24 on the triple when I want a bit of a rest and have a chat. Perhaps I can just power through with the 28?

    Premier Icon stevied
    Subscriber

    Went from a triple to XT double (40/28) and found no real problems at all. Can still climb everything I could on the triple (some are a little harder to keep going). I’m also running a 34t rear so, in hindsight, might have been better with a 36t rear but….

    robinlaidlaw
    Member

    Why not simply remove your big ring, swap your middle ring to say a 36 or 38t and run 2×10 like that? You keep your low gears for bail out, and if you aren’t using your 44 at the moment, the top gear should be fine.
    I’m running 22/36 on the front and 11-36 on the rear and most of the time it gets ridden in the 36 on the front but I still have a properly low bail-out for when I’m tired.

    Premier Icon curiousyellow
    Subscriber

    No way man. That would be way too cost effective. The whole reason for this clever ruse was to spunk money I didn’t have on some sweet XTR goodness.

    robinlaidlaw
    Member

    Ah, I understand 😀

    Premier Icon njee20
    Subscriber

    Hmmm…. These stories are making me wonder if I can swap the 28 for the 24!

    You can’t – XTR race doubles have an 88mm BCD, so you can’t go smaller than 28t.

    philfive
    Member

    I run 36/26 and it is spot on, lakes, dales and Wales. Get it done.

    m1kea
    Member

    New HT came with 42/27 and 10 speed 11 – 36.

    Splashed for a XTR 40/28 on the full suss which is still only 9 speed 11-32

    Not even remotely scientific but they’ve felt fairly similar in the gearing on the same routes I’ve ridden both bikes on.

    Might try a 39/26, which to me appears to give the biggest range of gearing for a 2X set up.

    On a connected note, the new XTRs seem to have a narrow Q factor. My drive crank only clears the right hand chainstay by a couple of mm on’t fuller susser. Would recommend you check clearances out.

    dantsw13
    Member

    What bb do you have? I run X0 cranks with 39/26 and its perfect. I have a Hope Ceramic bb with the GXP adapter and its been faultless. X0 are lighter than XTR and look lush!! (mine were £199 from CRC)

    Premier Icon curiousyellow
    Subscriber

    @njee20 Cheers for the advice on the chainrings!

    XT BB at the moment. Mechanic is doing the ordering so hopefully he will know what to get!

    Mate has X0 on his bike and I’ve ridden around a bit on it, but I prefer my XT.

    Premier Icon nickc
    Subscriber

    Curiousyellow, done the exact change about a month ago, and its made little or no difference, I spend most time in the 40 ring and only bail into the 28 for long uphill hauls. Even on really tired legs after being cooked on a fast rude on Sunday I was still more or less happy in the 40 ring. Oh sorry 11-36 at the back. I’m more excited about the clutch mech than I’m am about 2×10

    Premier Icon curiousyellow
    Subscriber

    Me too! I equate descending well with the chain being silent for some reason. Will be nice to not clatter about like a big bag of bolts.

    XTR is a bit of an investment for me. Planning on hanging onto this bike for a while so I hope it all works out. Now, if only the mechanic will get back to me and let me know what rear and front bits I need then life will be sweet!

    excitable1
    Member

    Mate has X0 on his bike and I’ve ridden around a bit on it, but I prefer my XT.

    Definitely. I run X0 and I’ve had nothing but grief with it. Great when it’s working but more often it’s not and my SLX on the HT runs better.

    I started with an X0 3×10 and changed over last year to a 2×10 42-28 after I deliberated for ages, posted on here and then decided I would need the bigger ring more. The change was for the better but I did notice straight away that I missed the granny to granny more more than I needed the big ring. The other thing I noticed on the 42-28 is that you shift between the front rings a lot more as it’s simply a case of big front ring for any kind of downs and small front ring for any kind of up. Ran that for a year, lived with it and liked it. Even enjoyed working harder on the climbs – I think !

    I’ve just changed over to a 39-26, mainly because the half decent chain devices are only compatible up to a 40T ring and I desperately needed one (and when I say decent I don’t put the MRP 2x in that category – bag of sh1te, avoid !). This new ratio is miles better, I didn’t realize how much I’d missed the smaller ring and that shifting from front ring to front ring has gone. Now it’s small 26T ring for the severest of climbs IE hour long in the Lakes, but for quick up and downs I stay in the 39T.

    Not sure about the XT or XTR but definitely needed a new FD for the X0. Even needed a new one when I changed over from the 42T to 39T. The FD sits too high and the chain tends to bounce off the big ring down to the lower mid decent, with the right FD it offers some chain retention.

    Have you thought about your rear mech as well ? If you go 2x you can put a shorter mech on and pull it out the way for more clearance. Thebeard has highlighted another ferkin problem with the X0 with the rear mech pulling too far back if you go small small (but how often would you do that). You don’t have this problem with the XT or XTR and you get the added bonus of the clutch – I know someone who couldn’t live with the X0 problem and changed over to XTR and it sorted it out no problem.

    One final nail in the coffin for SRAM. They have **** all in stock when you need it. Not even their most popular rings at the beginning of the season !

    Premier Icon nickc
    Subscriber

    Again, same here, in the lucky ( probably once in a lifetime) chance to not worry about the cost, so went for XTR everything, it’s lovely, although if I’m honest, the shifters are a “bit” clunky ( but I’m splitting hairs).

    Silent descending is a thing of beauty 🙂

    Premier Icon curiousyellow
    Subscriber

    Alright, mechanic says medium cage is the way forward!

    Now, black rear derailleur or silver?

    And even more importantly, silver or black front mech?

    Decisions, decisions!

    Premier Icon njee20
    Subscriber

    You don’t have that decision with XTR?

    Premier Icon curiousyellow
    Subscriber

    Rear mech is still XT. Only going XTR for the chainset bit.

    Premier Icon njee20
    Subscriber

    Aah, I see, as you were.

    Premier Icon curiousyellow
    Subscriber

    New bearings, new drivetrain, new grips, bars and stem this year, new wheels, cassette and tyres last year.

    Only things that haven’t changed are the suspension components. This bike is starting to look like Trigger’s broom!

    I really feel bad for the road bike when I look at the virtual odometer. It’s outstripping the mountain bike 4:1 in terms of distance covered. Oh well, at least it’ll have new handlebars and bar tape soon. Wondering if it’s worth stripping the brakeset out while I’m at it. Anyone reckon 105 brakes over normal V brakes is a decent upgrade?

    Premier Icon curiousyellow
    Subscriber

    Seems mechanic’s ordered the wrong front mech so I’m working with the triple XT front mech at the moment. Seems fine, but I keep wondering if there won’t be as much trim if I use a double specific front mech. Unfortunately, looks like I will need a derailleur adjustment too, because shifting is not as smooth as it was.

    I feel like I need to give it a bit more welly with the 28 when climbing, but should get used to it soon. A bit strange not having the chain clatter about now. I need to get used to it. Bring on the descents.

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