OK guys, I'm looking for some advice.

I've got a set of Shimano XT M775 wheels which I really like EXCEPT for the rear hub. Which is shite.

I like that they are light, the rims are tough, the UST thing is brilliant (very easy to change and inflate tyres, only one puncture in 2 years and that was an old tyre which exploded in the heat when the inner and outer casings delaminated). The front wheel has been absolutely trouble free and runs as smooth and true as the day it was born. I've done many hundreds of miles on them, including the Transalp and Kielder 100, but I'm being forced into ditching them because of the rear hub. Which is shite.

I've stripped everything down and cleaned it all out, new bearings, new grease, the works, but it works loose and play creeps in after each ride nowadays. I suspect the cups are shagged which means the hub is for the bin.

Problem is, being a "factory" wheel, I can't find a replacement. It's the fancy straight-pull spoked version (see below) and I suspect it'll cost too much to source the parts (hub and speshul spokes) to have it rebuilt on the existing rim.

Any ideas? Ditch it and buy the same wheel again, accepting that I'll only get 2 years life from it? Rebuild? I'm loathe to buy an entirely new wheelset.

Cheers,

SC

I can hear the haters coming… 😉

the pro3 hub has straight pull spokes, compatible?

Can't help I'm afraid but I've got those wheels too (came with the bike) and I'm worried about what happens when a spoke breaks etc as I've been waiting weeks for a spoke for my Shimano factory road wheels.
I'm not a Shimano hub expert but it doesn't sound like the cones are shagged.
Good luck

Are straight-pull spokes generic in design? Or are they manufacturer specific?

it doesn't sound like the cones are shagged

Rotation is very rough, despite strip down, new bearings and grease. Can't get rid of the play anymore.

There was a thread on here a while ago about Shimano cup and cone style hubs and them working loose. I think a few people offered advice on how to prevent it happening…..but they sound shagged if you can't get rid of the play!

I know the thread you mean S_F. I contributed some overly-optimistic posts to it since I was rebuilding mine at the time and it all seemed to go well, however I've only ridden it twice since then (10 More in Moray and Kielder 100) and it's in a pretty sorry state right now (as is the rest of the bike – got round to a sober assessment tonight!).

Maybe I need to have the LBS have a look at it and get a professional opinion.

Saturday morning bump.

You sure you are tightening the cones and the locking nuts against each other? Rather than doing both up in the same direction?

Yup, pretty sure, but I'll try again.

I took the axle completely to bits and started re-assembling it by putting the drive-side cone on, then the lock nut, then I tightened them against each other (tight as I could get them with a 5mm Allen key and a cone spanner). Once everything else was in place I did the same with the NDS cone and lock nut.

Can't help on the original post, but another waiting game being played here, same wheelset, broken spoke, got replacement spoke but been waiting well over two months for a hub nut to screw spoke into hub. Expected dates from importer keep being pushed out, have given up chasing bike shop for updates now as they never ring me, and the wheel has been bodged with an XTR hubnut which doesn't fit properly. If you keep the wheels, suggest you get some spares for when the inevitable happens.

If you do bite the bullet and go for a wheelset, I'm very happy with my Hope Hoops with Stans ZTR 355 rims. Hope Hoops are all the same price so its by far the cheapest route to getting some 355's, so much so that I bought them despite my dislike of the buzzy Pro II freehub! Come with spare spokes and nipples as well 🙂

I am pretty sure that you leave the drive side till last.

I have a how to guide infront of me fromt MBR and it does say to make sure the free hub side is in place before doing up the drive side.

make sure the free hub side is in place before doing up the drive side.

Isn't the drive side the same thing as the free hub side?

Have you checked the cones and races for pitting? The cones can be replaced, (if you can get hold of them that is…)

Do you use an axle vice when you're re-tightening the cones/locknut? I find them pretty much essential to stop the axle turning instead of the locknut.

You're doing it in the right order. Tighten the freehub/drive side first, then the non drive/disc side, otherwise you're having to work around the freehub body.

Drive side is the side with the plastic/rubber cone cover!

"Drive side is the side with the plastic/rubber cone cover!"

Drive side is the side that the drivetrain is on, ie. the cassette/freehub!

Doh, my bad, you are right. Just realised that. Get that tight first then do the other side.

Cheers for advice so far guys.

Davy – don't have an axle vice, though I do have a bog-standard desk vice. Can I use this or is it a pretty specialized bit of kit?

Not riding today (despite the sun splitting the sky) but will spend the day fixing up both my bikes.

Dimmadan – the plastic/rubber cone cover is there to protect the disc splines – it's the NON drive side.

A normal vice is ok, but make sure you don't damage the axle threads. Wrap a bit of cloth around the axle if you don't have soft-jaws.

If you're in the north east somewhere I could have a go at it for you.

Thanks for the offer Davy, but I'm in Fife!

Much appreciated.

just checked madison for you and they don't appear to list the hub as a spare

I've got a mashed rear M775 wheel, the hubs knackered (the threads are stripped where the freehub bolt screws in) but the spokes, etc are fine,, I am going to split it for spares if I cant get it warrantied so I'll keep you guys posted.

Cheers Rob.

Duckers – would be interested if you do split.

I'll let you know, I think I have your email from when you sent me a gpx route a while ago.

BTW I've tried sourcing an M775 factory rear hub from everywhere I can think of and had no luck in finding one..

Duckers:
Can I have dibs on a couple of spoke and nut sets. I'm a serial spoke breaker so this is going to be an issue sooner or later.

Duckers, another customer here, would be interested in two each of driveside/non driveside spokes/nipples/hub nuts, also seem to be missing the rubber cover mentioned above!

Spooky – the rubber cover is only used to protect the disc splines, so not needed when the disc is fitted.

I took the whole thing to bits again today and it's running like new again. Locknuts are superglued in place. I'll see how it holds up over the next couple of weeks.

A couple of pics (click for full size):

Drive side cup:

Non-drive side cup:

You can see the coating has worn but there is no sign of pitting or exaggerated wear.

I have just goit a standard M775 hub back as a waranty replacement. MY hub lasted 3 or 4 rides! I'm not too keen on building mine back up but have no choice as I dont want to shell out for a different hub

THe M775 hub is a bit more fidly to do the cones up compared to the other Shkmano hubs I have found. Is it the one that need two allen keys to tighten it up?

The most important thing imo with cup and cone bearings is a good set of cone spanners.

The cones and lock nuts need to be really tight to avoid any loosening (or tightening which can happen occasionally).

These ones have Allen key lock nuts which tighten onto the cones, so you need a 5mm Allen key and a 17mm cone spanner. I think loosening is the root of the problem because the innards all look fine. I tightened the locknuts as much as I physically could AND used superglue on the threads, so we'll see how it goes.

I have a brand new XT 775 rear hub minus the free hub you could use for all the internals, its a 36h silver hub same as this http://www.stif.co.uk/gear/select_options.asp?productid=7173

It runs the standard spokes not straight spokes but all the internals are the same, I've used another to do a similar rebuild on my factory wheelset. This hub was used for the freehub as I couldn't get a replacement, the freehubs are absolute shite, I get thro at least 2 a year, the rest of the wheels are superb tho

You can have the hub for £20 posted if it's any good to you

I was thinking about replacing the knackered rear hub with a standard shimano XT hub but what about the spoke pattern, there would be gaps….. (pics appreciated)…