Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
  • XT 11 speed derailleur hitting swing arm – Aeris
  • andyl
    Free Member

    Anyone running XT M8000 on their original Aeris?

    Just converting it to 1×11 with Sram GX cassette and XT RD but it seems to be hitting the chanstay pivot when trying to set it up for the smallest cog.

    Annoying as I have an XTR shifter with hope adapter to mount to my brakes so don’t really want to have to switch to SRAM.

    Are Sram and XT 11 speed cable pull ratios the same by any remote chance?

    deadkenny
    Free Member

    SRAM & Shimano 11 speed ratios are not the same, but sounds like you’re running XT derailleur and XTR shifter? so they’ll be fine together so long as both 11 speed. Cassette doesn’t matter, aside from you needing an XD driver for the SRAM cassette, and obviously an 11 sp cassette. Personally if the rest was XT/XTR I’d have gone Shimano freehub and Shimano cassette. Myself, even with SRAM shifter & Mech I prefer Shimano freehub and cassette.

    http://blog.artscyclery.com/science-behind-the-magic/science-behind-the-magic-drivetrain-compatibility/

    bornonaboat
    Full Member

    It did this with mine too, I ended up with a couple more turns on the b tension screw than would seem required when the bike is in the workstand and it has been perfect for the last few months.

    andyl
    Free Member

    It did this with mine too, I ended up with a couple more turns on the b tension screw

    yeah that is what I have ended up doing.

    Looking at Sram documents they advise a much larger gap (15mm) between the top jockey and largest cog than I am used to doing with shimano (normally have it so the top jockey is very close).

    Checking the M8000/9000 manual it says 5-6mm for a 42T or less cassette and 8-9mm for a 46T or less cassette.

    Also noticed that Sram say a 4 link extra length on chain, shimano stick to 2 links (1 inner, 1 outer). I set that with the suspension fully compressed and I wouldnt want to go any longer on the GS RD.

    vincienup
    Free Member

    Bear in mind that it’s not just the pull ratios that are different – the SRAM and Shimano derailleur geometry is quite different. SRAM has a very different top pulley location.

    I’ve never seen the measurements you’re recommending, but then I didn’t go looking for them. I’ve got my B screw set for 1.5 plates from the biggest cog just like I’d set up any other bike and my chains are sized just as I’d size any other chain: Big-Big (obviously Big:only if 1x) with the traditional full link (inner and outer pair) added to this length, not threaded through mech for sizing and any rear suspension held in the point that produces the longest chain distance BB-axle to compensate for chain growth – often this isn’t the backend at full travel due to the arc it moves through. From what you’ve written you may have too much chain which could be causing you some issues with mech taking up funny positions do deal with the excess length.

    I’m running a full GX and full X01 transmission set up like that and the GX had a Shimano 11-42 cassette and wheel fitted with no adjustment for a while as a swap-in – and was spot on with no fiddling. The longest running of these drive trains has been going well over a year now and is still snick-snick perfect with no dramas and no back-pedalling issues. Personally I disliked the Shimano cassette due to the lower top gearing, but we all have preferences.

    devash
    Free Member

    Are you sure you’ve installed the rear mech properly i.e. the tab on the mech lined up with the tab on the dérailleur hangar? Its easy to miss.

    PJM1974
    Free Member

    +1 for B tension screw.

    andyl
    Free Member

    Yeah derailleur is fitted correct and chain should be sized right – max compressed travel is longest and then follow my usual method (not through derailleur, big sprocket, + 2 links).

    Repeating it with the suspension unsagged needs about 4 links less.

    Using a GS RD that’s (42-10)=32T + say 4 teeth for chain growth = 36T which is just within the 39T of the GS so should be okay and manually setting the RD to 10T and 42T it just copes and should be just okay if i switch down to a 30T chainring from the 32T without shortening the chain.

    Also have an SGS RD here which looks a lot better in term of angles but looks much more vulnerable due to the extra 20mm. SLX GS is 5mm longer than XT which gives a 41T capacity (SGS XT 47T)

    Set at 6mm the GS jut clears the swing arm pivot in the 10T with the suspension at max height. I guess it will never really be in that position with a rider on it.

    alextemper
    Free Member

    Running the same combination on my
    Mk 1 with no issues.

Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)

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