after some light rims to team up with my chris king front hub to run on an ibis with a maxxis 2.35 high roller. mostly XC or aggressive stuff with a light rider and lots of sus!

standard would be xc 717 but they are pretty old now and can be a touch narrow for the high roller. ive heard good things about the olympics but soo much more!! worth it?

what other sub 400g rims should i consider at vaugely sensible money?

cheers

ZTR 355 would be a better pairing for a 2.35" tyre.

Worth every penny over the XC717.

even with no interest in tubeless?

I recommend you develop an interest in tubeless.

But yes.

I've just built up a pair of wheels with these.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=1849

They get 5 stars from me as well.

I'm currently running 335's with tubes (for a variety of very boring and specific to me reasons) and they're great – I really like the wide profile of them. Plus, I probably will go tubeless again eventually. They really are good with tubes too though.

Edit: Oh and they're very pretty too.

355s are the dogs bollocks

Their width really does help stop punctures…..

I just got the hope hoops with the 355's and gone tubless. Great lightweight wheelset, makes a fair bit of difference over my old unknown wheels.
Tubless was no big deal to setup, even with fire XC pro's. Just dont pump them up to hard, 30 psi is more than enough.
Winstanleys was the cheapest for me.

355s it is…………. and my first stab at some wheel building- good online guides??

Heya Mate.
Try 717's with a Bontrager Big earl on the front. Its a 2.35 bit its a hell of a lot lighter than the maxxis you've got (a lot better too IMHO tried and tested both)

Or if you want somthing wider which i recommened for that size tyre try an EX729, heavier but wider.

If you build that with your king hub it'll be indestructable.

Just use silver spokes!! You could go plain guage, however you'll find that paying more for a double butted spoke (built right by a good builder) will be stronger, lighter and more durable.

Definately get a new tyre though, they're really heavy. That'll make more of a difference rather than weakening the bike by getting a light rim.

You have to think of rolling weight ect.
I hope that has helped. I'm new to the forum so not sure if you can PM but if you need anyhelp contact me. 🙂

"titusrider"

Check you're mail, i've sent you a wheelbuilding guide,

It's the one i got given from Cytech.

So it IS how you build one correctly.

thanks for the ideas EE im generally pretty light on kit so dont really need the bombproof aspect of a heavier rim, was probly going to go for Dt revolutions to keep it light but i dont know about the good wheelbuilder bit….. sort of want to have a go myself even though i know a race wheel is not the ideal startin project!!!

as for the tyres they are the single ply maxxis so not rediculous and i love them to bits. nothing ive tried has ever matched the leaned over cornering confidence of the high roller and that is my top priority on the ibis coz it isnt half fun 🙂

cheers

I've just built up my King hubs with some olympic rims and the results are very satisfying. 2.25 Nobbynic/Racing ralphs seat perfectly. Running them both tubeless, with just tape (no rim strips) and no leaks or problems in a month and about 200 miles.

HTH

oh, and d/b silver spokes and alloy nipples to match the hubs, you know you want to… 😀

The downloadable book from wheelpro.co.uk is very good as well.

everyone saying silver spokes i thought that was just a myth, i 'have' to run black for asthetic reasons 😉 but its not really going to make a difference right?

EE i think the Iphone ate your attachment, just came though as text saying the file name!

I was going to say, I had a High Roller 2.35 and it came in at 700g, so not exactly heavy for 2.35???

black spokes is a myth – at least if you use DT

ive built hundreds of wheels for customers and the only issues ive ever had is when the customers asked for alloy nips – which ive advised against but customer knows best …. and they have siezed after a couple years – customer tries it on for a rebuild on warrenty – dont think so !

i always build with DT spokes.

I have however had several(as in 10s ) of cases of issues of black spokes snapping on stock wheels on giants and scott bikes usually at the start of the threads.

What Terry said, decent quality (ie DT!) black spokes with brass nips, far more sensible. Revs would be a good choice.

Not a difficult combination to start on at all. If you were using ZTR Race rims with CX-Ray spokes it'd be a bit different!

Black spokes is a myth. Also I don't think there is much difference in strength between plain and double butted spokes. It's more to do with tension isn't it?

titusrider, have you got it now? I did it from the comp.

I always thought the difference between PG and DB spokes was same strength for a lower weight.

Cheers EE have got it ok, gotta wait till after payday and when ive got a free weekend to give it all a go but im looking forward to it

nick c …. WTF??

EccentricEllis, any chance could you send me the wheelbuilding guide as well please?

Thanks
Andy

Loads of good advice, black nips tend to be useless for some reason. seen (first hand) lost of spesh black nips broken and snapped (at the threads like said above) and one or two spokes (again spesh and giant) broken on the threads.

i had some 717's on DTSwiss black spokes and they were great. (consider i flattened some machine build 317's to a pancake and totalled a 321 handbuilt) i currently have 325's on some Alps wheels and my normal wheels are 719 (but i am in the process of changing to 819 as sadly i have become a tubeless convert, after all i said about tubeless being bollocks and people are just "thinking" they feel a difference i getto's some tyres tubeless and i'm converted. more grip, i don't want to run lower pressures or that stuff as i like my 30ish psi but i have more grip over roots and no pinch punctures! so thats me converted, and fyi thats not a "i think i have" more grip over root's i know i have, round the wyre forest we climb up a cross root'd section so i know how much grip my old setup gave)

Stans are great and worth the money.
Even if your running tubes now, they give you the option to go tubeless with a minimum of faff.

I'd also go for 355's with a 2.35" tyre.