Great little spot re the inner tubes…thanks just ordered a couple for my Dune replacement (the son in law now has the Dune). I’ve only gone and bought a new Specialized Fatboy (the one with carbon forks). To be fair comparing it to the Dune, it rides like it cost 3x the price and I can’t recommend it highly enough if your budget stretches to Specilaized prices. The great thing is the son in law is already buying stuff to carry on riding the fatty in all weathers too.

Racebiek! At the Elliot Campbell Mountain Timetrial, which is a sort of XC race for the mental, or enduro race for people who don’t like being able to breathe- a single 22km lap using an assortment of red route, pushup paths, swamps, downhill trails, enduro trails, and swamps.

Muddy death today at innerleithen, had a totally predictable otb purely because a mud hole I tried to ride through, was too thick and sticky and it just grabbed the tyre 😆 Really not fatbike territory but I had a good laugh and wasn’t last. Remains to be seen by how much I was not last, I’m going to guess I was in the bottom 20% 😆

I know bar width is a personal thing, just interested to see what most people are using.
Might be that numbers are all over the place.
I’ve got 780mm bars on mine, which are definitely to wide. Wondering how narrow I can go without the steering feeling odd..740mm?

780s on mine, and perfect for me but we’re all different shapes. The golden rule is, cut em down, and eventually you’ll reach the point where you’ve definitely cut off 20mm too much.

The fatty I borrowed had narrower bars than I’m used to and it felt like Ike it was steering itself at times. I’d move the your grips in and try it narrower before cutting.

Anyone able to confirm if a 4.8 JJ grips any better in muddy conditions than a 4.0 Floater?

Not really, but if it does the the floater mush be pretty awful 🙂 Certainly comparing a Bud/Lou combo with 4.8 JJs is chalk and cheese (and pretty slimy cheese at that).

Poops coop picture was taken at Poly Joke.

I read that the 4.8 JJs run much better than the 4.0s

@slimjim78 I’m finding Nates working really well in South Downs slime, much better than the original JJs – upon which I did lose the front end, put my hand out and sliced my glove and palm neatly in two on a flint….

The Nates are great, almost too grippy in thicker/deeper mud so you need to keep driving through to stop them bogging down, and draggy on firmer surfaces, but no slidey dramas like the JJs used to have.

I’ve not tried 4.8s mind, and I know Northwind rates the 4.8 JJ over the 4.0.

Yep, but it’s all relative, the 4.8 is still bad in mud, it just slides a bit nicer and deals better with “mud on hard” like say a wet trail centre trail

Out of curiosity what is the minimum size of inner tube I need to carry as back up in the event of a puncture & my fatty stripper tubeless setup failing? Running 4inch Floaters.

Would I get away with a 26×3 ?

zippykona – Member
Poops coop picture was taken at Poly Joke.

Ah yes! Can see the sign better on the pc.
Happy times hiking round to there from Crantock not so many years ago.

Cheers bud, brought back songs great memories.

Fantastic place to ride a fat bike I bet!

I can confirm after tonight’s ride that Floaters go mostly sideways heading downhill on mud but grippy climbing on mud. Everywhere else great fun (not, not fun on mud but definitely wild..)

This winter has been relatively mud free till February, is a Nate up front the equivalent of a Shorty?

I’ve ordered one of the Planet X pannier racks, I’ll fit it at the weekend and let people know how it performs.

After a lot of thought, nearly spending £1500 on a bike without even riding one, coming back to reality and settling for a Dune, i’ve bought a second hand thing for a very reasonable amount. (Low)

Going shortly to collect it and just hope it’s as straight and good as I’m led to believe.

Pics shortly 🙂

What gives O-o?? Mamoths ordered Sunday, arrived tuesday while i was at dialysis – by Yodel too! (I figured they couldn’t kill rubber!) Way to go 😀

Here’s my new toy.

Medium fatty with carbon forks, 1×10 with new chain and cassette and as originally sold components.

Got it for under £400 with the original 2x Sram components and a spare rear tyre thrown in. Very happy with the deal and a even had a good chat about biking when I picked it up.

Not sure whether to put it back to 2×10 with the big cassette for a silly low gear, or just go to a 28 or 30t front and keep it 1×10 ?

As I bought it with the intention of having a laugh climbing up things, I’m thinking of reverting to 2x but, would appreciate other thoughts.

If I go to a 28t front and leave it single ring – do these fit onto the smaller 64pcd (iirc) of the granny ring and how do people find them?

Already thinking of a dropper and going tubeless.

So after a year of being fat curious I now have to wait a whole 8 days till be fat fixation comes to pass and although not technically under £1k Id still like to join the party ,especially after spending the last 2 hours reading this page about tyres.

Long and short Lives in the Peak district ,always muddy and wet , Jumbo Jims not all that clever , used to a Mary up front, looks like im going to have to get a set of Minions or 45nrths

Hurry up Canyon !

If I go to a 28t front and leave it single ring – do these fit onto the smaller 64pcd (iirc) of the granny ring and how do people find them?

I’ve stuck with 2×10 on my fatbike for now, as I like climbing cliffs, but I’ve got a 28T on my 1×10 Smuggler. It’s mounted on the granny position of a double chainset (with a bash ring in the outer position, mainly for looks) and seems to work well. It moves the chainline in a bit, of course, but that suits me fine as I spend most of my time up that end of the cassette anyway.

Twonks, go for 2×10. This gives you access to the fatty’s bestest party trick: the ability to climb just about anything. A fatty without is a fatty wasted, in my humble opinion. Then, at the oher end of the scale, you still have the option of a 36t ring pushing 11 for any steep track or road scariness.
If you have only 1×10, you’ll have both fair gaps in the range, plus neither a truly low nor truly high gear available. That’s lose-lose-lose in my book.

Thanks and you make a case that is difficult to argue against. Other than aesthetics and a slight weight reduction (which are not really valid), going back to 2x is the way to go.

Will sort it in the morning and go for a ride round the back end of Cannock. There is a particular hill I always struggle with and run out of grip on the regular bikes.

Should be interesting with loads of grip and super low gears 🙂

Which tubeless valves so I need for br2250 wheels? Sure I read somewhere that the normal Stan’s ones don’t work with these rims..

Dune owners, I’ve bought a second hand FSA Comet fat crank and BB. The non driveside cup bottoms out before it should, with a spacer added it feels ok. Any idea why?
Has anybody else had any issues?

The BB is a 100mm DH.

Maybe because of the mech mounting plate normally on the driveside, if you’ve gone 1x something?

Yep, its 1 x 10.

On closer inspection the threaded part of each cup is twice as long as a standard Hope BB. I think its just run out of thread inside the frame.
It works with a spacer on each cup but the instructions say to only fit a spacer to one side.

I’ve tightened it all up and while it turns ok there is definitely more resistance than normal. I might try it with a standard Hope non driveside cup and no spacer.

The reason I haven’t used the Hope BB is that the fit of the crank is very tight on the Hope bearings and pulled the bearing out of the drive side cup on removal.

Mine is now 2×10 with a 24 and 36 at the front and 12 to 42 at the rear.

Works fine in the car park and now off for a proper ride to see how it feels.

The Sram X5 kit feels better than XT on my HT. Always been a die hard shimano fan but this may change my mind – will see how it fairs after a bit of sand, mud and rain 😉

Taped my rims up yesterday using gorilla clear repair tape.. Pumped like a madman only to then examine why my jumbo Jim’s weren’t going up.. There the non tubeless ones!

Anyone used the Maxiss mamouths? Are they as crap as they say in the wet? £30 from on one can’t be sniffed at..

Success at last, Gpx cup on the drive side with one spacer, Hope on the non driveside. As I suspected, not enough threads for the longer GPX cup.

Goldigger, put some sealant in it!

Goldigger – like lightman says, you gotta lube those babies up – you weren’t attempting a dry run were you?

Goldigger – Member

Which tubeless valves so I need for br2250 wheels? Sure I read somewhere that the normal Stan’s ones don’t work with these rims..

It’s a wee bit fiddly becase they’re singlewall rims- I use the alu superstar ones but they need a little finagling to work right because the taper sticks right through the rim and stops the lockring threading down. Various ways you can tackle that, I put cup washers from avid brakes (or cantis, same thing) on mine, perfect. There might be a better way though.

Guilty as charged, I was trying a dry run. All my wheels have gone up dry, might just be lucky there.

I did put a rubber washer on the valve to try and seal it up better.

Might have to borrow the neighbors compressor

Even on TL tyres, without sealant you’ll lose pressure in the event of a puncture

Thanks for pointing out the obvious…

I inflate my tyres get them seated on the rim, remove the valve stem and add sealant…

Just seemed weird that you complained of a tubeless tyre deflating is all. Just trying to help

Not complaining of a deflating tyre, they need to have air in to do that.
I’ve not even got to the adding sealant part.
I didn’t get passed stage 3 below..couldnt get the tyre to hold any air.
1.Tape rim.
2.Mount tyre.
3.Pump up like mad to seat the bead.
4.Let the air out.
5.Remove valve stem.
6.Add sealant.
7.Put valve stem back in.
8.Pump up.
9.Shake rim to distribute sealant.
10.Check for leaks.

Is it stock Dune rims? HAev you got the tyre to go onto the bead? (ie step 3?). I found that basically impossible without foam padding, even with a big compressor, the rim is just a bad shape for tubeless.

There DT Swiss BR2250 wheels..
Which don’t really have a good profile for tubeless in my opinion

I’d agree with NW. I have the On-One Emmental (I think the same rims as the Dune). No luck at all getting the tyre seated (using a ‘Ghetto’ Airshot made from a 2l pop bottle). Just isn’t happening

By the way, Goldigger, I wouldn’t put the valve stem back in (Step 7). You’ll get air in the tyre faster without it. Can then remove pump (or air supply), finger over valve and quickly screw the core back in. Obviously you’ll lose a few psi but the tyre should stay seated