Well I couldn’t resist,picked up a large this afternoon and put it together myself,i was impressed by the niceness of the frame and paint finish.Only had a ride around the estate on it so far ,gears work well,brakes ok,theyll do for now,steering feels weird.I put 8psi in both tyres,will take it over the chase tomorrow.Thanks for the advice.

I found on tarmac the inertia of that huge wheel/tyre is magnified hugely

Nobody- just annoyed that it isn’t made clear that you can’t click and collect, i’d have purchased differently.

1x10d my Dune recently and it’s still as good with the most smiles per £ out of any of my bikes, the comfort of a softail, the capability to roll over/up anything and the confidence inducing grip/stability means out of choice it’s my go to bike.

Drove all the way from the Midlands to deepest Kent today to pick up my bargain dune. Tested it in Surrey on the way back.

Haha. That’s a great picture. I’m heading out tomorrow to find a bigger tree….

Holyzeus – Member

I found on tarmac the inertia of that huge wheel/tyre is magnified hugely

How I feel it, is that up to a certain speed, fatbikes aren’t really that much effort. But it ramps up as the speed goes up. My made up science explanation is that it’s hysteresis at work- tyre lag basically, once you get up to a certain speed you’re pushing constantly against the tyre’s deformation, essentially outrunning your own bow wave.

How many of you have had the ‘Cor!, where’d you get them tyres mate?’ questioning?? 😀

^^^ Constantly.
It’ll be a shame when everyone has fatbikes and this stops.

Thank you.

Did about 22 miles on mine today which is a big ride by my standards,mainly off piste at Cannock.Loved it,the steering still feels strange when on hard,smooth surfaces,but I intend to stay away from them as much as possible ,and will use it for more natural stuff.I love the way it rolls over the big stones and roots and the grip on loose surfaces is great.No problems with it at all,very pleased with it.One thing I would say though,i am 5’10 and got the large and I still ended up with the seat post at max so be aware ,I was going to get the medium originally which would have been way too small I feel.

good stuff mm! congrats on the new bike.

mm93 – Member

One thing I would say though,i am 5’10 and got the large and I still ended up with the seat post at max so be aware ,I was going to get the medium originally which would have been way too small I feel.

The stock seatpost’s fairly wee- I’m 5’10 and using a 400mm post and it works perfectly.

Having purposely avoided this thread since it start, I really shouldn’t have decided to finally read it last Friday, the day before my birthday………………… It arrives tomorrow ! !

haha. this thread must be personally responsible for the majority of october’s Dune sales!

How many of you have had the ‘Cor!, where’d you get them tyres mate?’ questioning??

I had something similar in Glossop with my plus sized tyres – “Big tyres mate. Do you ride on mountains?”

Have any of you done the ghetto tubeless split tube thing with the juggernaut tyres?if so is it
A-easy?
B-worth it?
Oh, and what tubes did you use,20″ or 24″?

So i’ve been lucky enough to nab a used Lou for the rear, looks in ok nick still
Whats the opinion for the front 4.8/5.0 but not silly money, a FBF?

How many of you have had the ‘Cor!, where’d you get them tyres mate?’ questioning??

Everytime I ride it

“If we had tyres like that we’d be OK”
“I need some of those”
“You got an engine in that?”
“It looks like it should be slow but it obviously isn’t!”
“**** me I must be really unfit”
“Let this bloke come past he’s got more grip than we have”
“There must be a battery in it somewhere”
“Richard! RIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIICHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARD! LOOK BEHIND YOU!”

etc

“Here y’aremate, how did you get your tyres so big” said the local youth.

“I just pumped them up and kept pumping”, I replied.

I hope he doesn’t try it on his BMX.

I’m keen to convert to tubeless now, but I can’t be arsed to read back through the thread to find out what the best solution was.

I think I was initially put off by the suggestion of shoving foam strips inside the rim to help the tyre bead seat (I think).

That, and what does one do if a flat causes tyre to come off rim out on the trail – and you don’t have enough PSI to hand to reseat it.

Still, I hate tubes. Want them gone.

I went with Fatty Strippers as it actually saves weight.

That, and what does one do if a flat causes tyre to come off rim out on the trail – and you don’t have enough PSI to hand to reseat it.

Stick your spare tube in.

Sigh – they weigh so bloody much though. I swear it weighs me down like an anchor in my camelback.

Did you import the FattyStripper kit from the US? How did that work out price wise?
I have a couple of tubeless valves laying around and am tempted to go a bit Heath on sourcing rim tape a la Northwind. Would be good to source some of those 26″ foam rings though.

Just carry a normal sized tube.

Is that wise as a temporary fix then?

Did you import the FattyStripper kit from the US? How did that work out price wise?

Yes. something like 30 quid for 2 sets I think. It was post-Brexit though. They basically weigh nothing, unlike split tubes, so worth every penny for me.

I have a couple of tubeless valves laying around and am tempted to go a bit Heath on sourcing rim tape a la Northwind. Would be good to source some of those 26″ foam rings though.

Stick ‘backer rod’ in ebay.

I drilled my rims and cut schrader valves out of old motorcycle inner tubes for mine.

So let me get this right:

1) stick tubeless valve in rim
2) cover rim holes with a length of something sticky and colourful – 3m/gaffer tape style
3) place backer rods either side of inner rim faces(approx 1cm from rim edge)and carefully cover/stick in place with more gaffer tape
4) fit tyre within the ‘wall’ of rim and backer rod and inflate to seat tyre
5) bung in about a pint of stan’s fulid
6) stand back and marvel at your accomplishment. aren’t you a clever boy?

i’m interested in this tubeless conversion too, indeed having spent a week with my new fatbike I can safely say i am utterly smitten and have developed a much stronger than anticipated desire to do some upgrades….

The question is, would I have been better off having just bought a more expensive fat bike in the first place! Some maths:

Dune fatty (delivered to Belgium): €550 (thanks Brexit)
Deore hydro Brakes: €90
Scram NX crank: €99 (https://www.bike24.com/p2129224.html)
Full 1×11 NX kit: €139 (https://www.bike-components.de/de/SRAM/NX-1×11-fach-Upgrade-Kit-p48765/)

Total: €878

Not too bad I think, for what i will end up with. The only other consideration is that you might need a new seatpost if you are over 5″10 even on the large. (I also needed a slightly longer stem to get the reach right – 90mm – feels great now.) As Northwind has said a few times, if you want a Bluto, the best value fatbike out there is probably the On-one, but otherwise i think this is a pretty good deal, and an excellent frame.

so, my question: would that 1X11 sram cassette fit directly on as a replacement? (i’m fairly sure the answer to that is, yes) Secondly, would that NX 100MM fatbike crank fit, and/or would i need to do some spacing work?? It’s says: Bolt Circle (mm): 94mm, 4-arm

Thanks everyone!!

Stay fat.

hmmm, from Northwind’s pervious post on the matter in need to look for a 100/170 setup (whatever that refers to? The 100 is the BBwidth and the 170 the total distance between the pedals?) – i think i’ll have to get in touch with the online bike folk and ask, because it’s not clear to me from the spec on the site…

this is supposed to explain it, (http://www.fat-bike.de/fatbike-cranks-part-1-en/) but now i am even more confused.

any advice on what i am supposed to actually ask for for the Dune would be much appreciated!

actually, the answer is somewhere on page 44 of this document! https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign.netdna-ssl.com/cdn/farfuture/Dqt1Vf8U0BgaNattQmWXU8Ds9UAYUH4k9ycYMlEmEJg/mtime:1433863515/sites/default/files/techdocs/gen.0000000004911_rev_b_2016_mtb_drivetrain_ffs.pdf

the trouble is, i’m not sure what the question is! (reminds me of hitch-hikers guide to the galaxy)

The 170 refers to rear hub spacing. The Dune runs a 197 rear hub but actually works better with cranks designed for 170 hubs. Main benefit being a narrower Q factor (better for your knees).

Thanks, but i can’t seem to find the hub spacing that this Sram NX fatbike crank is designed for. What i think i need to do is look at the crank CL (i.e. the distance form the center of the BB to the crank) of the crankset you and Northwind have used, and compare it to this one. It has a CL of 66.8mm apparently…

so i think i found the race face affect crank specs, and the 170mm one seems to have about the same CL and q-factor as the Sram NX i linked to! I think it would work. (bottom of page one here: http://www.raceface.com/media/Crank_Q-factors_and_chainlines.pdf I think you have the XCF100 (167.25)..?)

Race face Aeffect – Cinch, XCF100 (167.25)
CL: 67-68 or 73.5-74.5 (with Flipped Ring)
Q-factor: 205

Sram NX GX-1000/X1-1000 – Fat bike
CL: 66.5 (Bottom Bracket Type(s): GXP® : BB30™ : PF30™ : PFGXP™)
Q factor: 203

May i ask, without meaning to be rude, if you flipped your ring?

Yes I flipped my ring. Chainline is all good, don’t fret about a mm or two. Chain rings are also being produced with offset these days to cater for fatso’s

thanks slimjim. Would it have worked without flipping your ring, or was that essential? I suppose at some point I should just do this the old fashioned way and go and have a look! (and measure it with a ruler)

The question is, if I go for the NX crank, which is nice and cheap, but has a non flippable ring and a chainline of 66.5, will that we wide enough? (perhaps is it for 4″ tyres, but not for 5″…)

it’s true that replacement offset rings are avaliable, but they are about half the price of the whole NX crankset, so I would rather avoid having to change later.

Truth is I spent hours devouringe the chainline info myself and it was nigh on impossible to settle on a definitive answer – in the end I followed advice that ‘near as damn it’ will work.

IIRC – the flipped ring on my set up put me close to ‘optimal’ chainline, so I fitted it that way, and it works. I havent gone wider than 4″ tyre so cant guarantee it’ll clear a 5″ on largest sprocket, having said that im pretty sure NW has run 5″ on his and we share the same set-up.

You may need to buy an aftermarket ring, you may not. I too wanted the cheapest set up, I even penny pinched a 1×10 set up when I couldv gone 1×11 for just a few £ more, but in the end I splashed the cash on the Aeffects as 1) they look great 2) they fit great 3) the Dune deserves pampering

Much the same here, fatbike chainline and q factor are really pretty confusing, I got it wrong the first time. Even within Raceface’s range alone there’s loads of variation, you’d think all the 197 rear cranks’d be the same but no.

I think I’d say 2 things. First is that teh stock cranks are actually fine- they’re heavy and you can’t fit a little chainring easily, but they work. I had to replace mine because I wrecked the taper but that was my fault. So you could stick a 30T on it for now like the NX has. The bearings aren’t great but it’ll let you get into it without buying cranks immediately.

The other is- aeffect are really good, and great value. They’re a wee bit more expensive than the NX but they’re much lighter, and they take a Shimano-style BB. Whereas with NX you’re stuck with SRAM-compatibles. SRAM BBs are terrible, most quality alterantives are expensive.

So basically I would go direct to Aeffect with the ring of your choice if you can. And if you can’t, then stick a cheap ring on the standard cranks and use those til you can. You’re going to spend almost as much to get a real entry level unit with some big drawbacks.

(flipped ring on 10-speed shifting and a 4.8 rear, works a charm for me with the 170 Aeffect. The chain clearance to the tyre is a little tighter than is maybe ideal but it’s more than good enough, and the chainline is close enough (I reckon biasing the chainline to the left isn’t a bad idea on a fatbike, I spend way more time in the low gearst than the high!)

great advice guys, thanks! I’m going to do exactly as Northwind suggests.

apart from the bit where he lambasts coloured chain rings..

Green N/W 30T FTW!

haha. yes, apart from that bit of terrible advice.

so, i’m thinking about this:

https://www.bike-components.de/en/Shimano/SLX-1×11-speed-Upgrade-Kit-2017-Model-p50818/

€159 for an SLX 1×11 11-42 conversion kit with cassette, rear mech, chain, cables and gear-chainging thing. (vs €139 for the equivalent NX kit)

Both fit to a standard shimano freehub apparently.

Then in can pick up a 30 tooth 104 to use with my Lasco for about €15.

good plan?

A set of Aeffect cranks has just landed on my desk, very nice looking they are too. Just waiting for the Absolute Black 28T oval direct mount (black) chainring to arrive and that’s that bit of the build sorted.