I’m coming to the end of my new shed build. The roof will be 4×2 rafters, 18mm OSB, breather membrane, battens, then cedar shingles. I’m at the stage now where I’m about to batten and add the shingles.
I’ve been looking at the Frontier stoves as a nice cheap solution for some heat and to warm a kettle but I’m not sure of exiting the flue through the roof. They do supply a shed flashing kit for this stove but I don’t know how or if this will work. Do I fit it on top of the breather membrane and below the shingles?
the flue pipe is only 2.5-3″ in diameter so make sure your flashing goes small enough. The one I used was 40-90mm, the newer part at fluesystems is 10-90mm so will be fine.
I love stoves (got two in the house) but I really can’t see the point in putting one in a shed unless you’re going to be in there for 3+ hours on a regular basis.
I’ve got a pare stove and single/twinwall and was going to put it in my office (converted stables) but it’s just not as good as an oil filled rad on a 7 day timer.
Sometimes you can be just too niche.
I have exactly the same plans so I am very interested in this. I am under strict instructions not to start my built until the end of the month after my daughters 18th birthday party which will include family BBQ etc. I am kicking my heels at the moment !
It’s a suspended concrete t-beam floor with concrete block in-fill.
It’s not going anywhere.
I used it as the shed is actually leased from the Malvern Conservators and I wouldnt have been able to install a concrete fill. This is demountable.
For proper finish you should lay some mesh and add a screed top to it, but although I park the camper van in there (on bearers to spread load) I dont drive in and out of it regularly so dont need the additional strength. Not that it’s isnt pretty butch stuff already.
Sharkbait, your Manclub membership card has been withdrawn.
😯
Delivered last night (£50). I’m going to cut it up with a nail file and split it with my bare hands.
I’ll then carry each log in my teeth and stack them in alphabetical order in here……. can I reapply?
Is that base all fixed together or would a direct hit from a carelessly-swung bit of 2×4 send you to oblivion
doh, martinhutch, sorry having re-read your post I realise you meant the stove base.
The grids are screwed down to the oak bearers, the feet of the stove are zip-tied to the grids. Nothing’s going anywhere, those bearers weight 15Kg each.
Nailfiles are for nancy boys. If you can’t split the wood using shear will power then something is wrong for you. Chuck Norris only has to look at a tree and it re-arranges itself into a neatly stacked woodpile…
joshvegas – bigger footprint is safer, less likely to back into a hot stove as there’s a defined perimeter, less likely to leave anything too close to it etc.
Building regs for domestic stove installation specify a 1/2″ floor height difference at a safe perimeter for the same kind of reasons.
admittedly I have a fair bit of space to be flippant with it.
If the space is at a premium, then you dont have to leave the frontier set up, just leave the last flue piece hanging in the silicone flashing, coallpse the rest and fold the fire box away on a shelf for summer.
Stoner if you ise it as it i tended aswell I get it. I was thinking more along the lines of reducing the floor space of the actual stove by rigidly fixing it in place on legs with a a guard rail to sit on and warm your arse. Lovely. Also you need to get this kettle…http://www.ronniesunshines.com/frontier-stove-water-heater.html