My garage is currently lit from a what looks like a fused, switched spur to a ceiling rose.

I want to replace it with two switches (actually pull cord ones), at either end of the garage (two doors into it).

I’ve been checking for the latest wiring standards and this seems pretty clear cut:

http://www.lightwiring.co.uk/two-way-switching-3-wire-system-new-harmonised-cable-colours/

But (isn’t there always), it seems overly complex for my scenario because I’m not working off a ring. Can I just connect the spur cable via the two switches and then the light – ie:

Spur -> Switch 1 -> Switch 2 -> light

Like this:

If so, what colours should I be using for the middle cables – presumably they should be live and neutral sheathed with a live (brown) marking to make clear it’s switched.

(Earthing will also be connected but I’ve not mentioned it as it’s straightforward)

TIA.

Bump?

If you have the switched fused connector as the switch, you’ll need to add another switch after that, as well as the one at the far end, as the switch from that will isolate it all.
Have a think about the ‘simple’ diagram, and you’ll see it is not quite so simple, as you’ll need to run another cable in somewhere from the new switch to the light fitting.
Anyway, 2x 2 way switches, link them together with 3 core and earth. Put brown sleeving or tape on the ends to indicate they are line conductors.
Line in, from the fused spur (Line is the new ‘live’) to L1, Live out to light L2.
3 core+E between the switches. Doesnt matter which way, just so that COM, L1 and L2 are the same colour at each switch.
Neutral and earth should be the same as now.

As Alanl says, it’s 3 core and earth between the two switches. This is flat, like 2 core, and you can use either 1.0mm2 or 1.5mm2 – either is satisfactory.

The colours of 3 core and earth are different to twin and earth, which will be red and black for old cable and brown and blue for new.

(red/brown are live and black/blue neutral). In 3 core you’ll have brown, black and grey.

Wire as follows:

Fron the fused spur it will be red/brown to COM on switch 1. and black/blue into the switch box for switch 1 (no connections yet).

Three core:
brown from L1 of switch 1 to L1 of switch 2.
grey from L2 of switch 1 to L2 of switch 2.
black from neutral in switch box 1 to switch box 2 (use choc. block connectors)

At switch box 2:
From COM in switch 2 connect red/brown of existing wiring to lamp.
From black in switch 2 to black/blue of existing wiring to lamp using a choc. block to make the connection

Mark the grey of the 3 core with brown tape or sheathing to identify it as a live conductor.

Mark the black of the 3 core with blue tape or sheathing to identify it as a neutral conductor.

Ensure the earths are connected from the FCU through to the lamp fitting. The earth in the cables will not have insulation and you’ll need to use yellow/green sheathing to protect and identify it.

Ensure the FCU has a 3 amp fuse in it.

Robert is now officially your father’s brother.

Rich.

PS lighting circuits are almost always radials, not rings. The FCU could be a spur off a ring and as the MCB protecting the ring is probably going to be a 32A one it will be too big to adequately protect the smaller cables of the lighting circuit. That’s why the FCU fuse needs to be 3A. (You’d actually be ok with a 13A fuse as 1.0mm2 cable will carry 16A if it’s clipped to joists but your lighting load will be minimal).

Just to add (boring, sorry); the uppder diagram you posted shows what is known as loop-in wiring which is a radial circuit that runs to a number of ceiling roses. The switching runs to and from the rose. You’ll be wiring direct to the switch, which is what I think you were getting at with regards it being simpler in your case.
Also, the upper diagram shows what is known as the “alternative” rather than “conventional” way of wiring a two way circuit. I’ve described the conventional method which is what the lower of the two diagrams shows.

Thanks for the replies. To try and be clearer this is what I’m planning

How does that look?

Martin – I’ve just cottoned onto what you’re talking about with the 3 core and earth. My plan obviously works but would require joining the wire in places which is where the 3 core helps.

Nemisis, I’ve emailed you.
Rich.

Nemesis, your sketch might be more practical in single core cable
The multi-core cable suggested above (T+E, 3+E) is easily available and depending on distances / layout of your garage is a good (or better) solution