Handbuilt, or just pick up whatever cheap factory wheels people are flogging off that come stock on their new bikes – I’ve just sold some R500’s for a whopping £35 the pair, that’s pretty much paid for spokes and rim tape on a pair of handbuilt wheels!
Now,cup’n’cone vs sealed is your preference, but get hubs with a serviceable/replaceable freewheel (or freewheel bearings). I’ve got ultegra hubs with cheapo rigida chrina rims for winter (these rims are only £16 a pop but with plenty of metal on the rim for decent life), but the freehub is ropy as hell after just a couple of winters. Would much prefer something like a hope knowing I could swap the whole thing out or replace bearings easily enough.
If you get cup’n’cone, make sure you personally (or a shop you fully trust), make sure you grease up the bearings and adjust them properly – I’ve seen a few too many FUBAR’d hubs on friends bikes due to the poor state they came in from the factory.