I’ve got some stainless steel chainring bolts that won’t do up tight on my raceface wide narrow chainring ? Always tightened first on a hope ring but not on this one get semi tight then just spins the back, I’ve got a tool to try hold it still at the back but can’t get enough grip when I turn the bolt

I’ve got a right annoying clicking noise in 1 st and 2nd biggest cogs out back and I’ve tried absolutely everything else known to man to cure it

New bb bearings, new frame bearings , new rear mech, wheels are new anyways , pedals are new and no play, seat seatpost fine, qr tight, all bolts torqued , mech hanger cleaned and swapped for a new one blah blah blah at the end of my tether with it now!

But I keep coming back to chainring bolts as I just simply cannot get them to lock up and tighten in place? I know this can cause clicking etc, and although they are not loose by any means they aren’t locked into place

Are they just knackered ? Shall I just get some alloy ones? Any recommendations?

Is the hope ring ‘everso’ slightly thicker?

I am guessing, but are the bolts bottoming out, ie they go tight before they clamp the ring in place.

It might be worth using shorter bolts and seeing if that helps.

Not sure on the hope ring thickness front I’ve chucked it away now as it was worn , the chain ring bolts I have are specific single ring chain bolts? Surely should be fine or I wonder as its raceface I need some special specific ones?

They go right yeh they screw on and mesh up just fine, but then as soon as they start to tighten the back just spins too

Again it’s a long shot its causing my clicking noise but ideally want to rule it out

Have you smeared grease on the chain ring surfaces where they meet either each other, or where they bolt to the crank arm?

The bolts don’t need to be silly tight, but you should be able to get enough purchase on them by holding the back – on mine a thin strong strip of metal does the job.

No matter how tight the bolts, there will always be tiny bits of movement between the parts under the forces involved and so you need to lubricate with grease to eliminate any noise.

Yep I’ve used copper grease on both parts of the male and female threads so plenty on, it’s just usually It just tightens up and at the mo as soon as I get it tight ish it then just spins the back

Any recommendations on other brands that work ok with raceface single rings?

That little tool for holding the back of the bolt is for tightening. Just work out a way of holding it correctly and it’ll be fine. I never use any grease, just a drop of threadlock on each thread.

Sounds like bolts bottoming out.

Rolling- it’s physically impossible to get the tool in , I’ve used another set of hands to hold it in place whilst I turn the bolt and its just to strong to withstand moving the rear bit, so I can’t do a thing with it

I’m sure you used to be able to get some chainring bolts that you could stick a Allen key in the back to hold it in place whilst tightening the bolt? Defo be able to do it if that was possible

Njee if its bottoming out is there a solution or does that just mean the bolts aren’t correct for the ring?

If there’s a recess for the bolt head to sit in, try flipping the chainring (inside facing out) and see if that works? I had the same thing once and it worked for me. Otherwise M-part make some chainring bolts that are allen keys at both ends, 5+6mm.

Dave have you just tried adding a washer as a very temp solution to check if it is indeed the bolts bottoming out. You’ll know within seconds if thats the case.

🙂

Shorter bolt or washers needed. Don’t try washers as the bolts tend to work loose.

Buzz – I wasn’t suggesting using washers as a perm thing, just to see in fact if the bolt bottoms out/still does the same with a washer in there. If it doesn’t then shorter bolts defo if it does, ???

Carlos- hey mate nope not even thought of that, to be honest I’m clutching at straws now I’ve tried absolutely everything known to man. The only thing I can’t confirm on us the chainring bolts as I can’t get them tight how I used to have them on my hope ring, so until I get them locked in and tight it’s really the last thing I can think of

Now just wondering if the clicking type noise is just a characteristic of the chain and new narrow wide chain ring up front, I’m still sure it’s drive train related its only doing it in 1st and 2nd gear on the very steepest of climbs and more so on off road climbing when it’s bumpy

I’m totally lost as to what it could be lol

Will the bolts do up tight when they are off the bike, ie, not through anything? That will tell you where they bottom out.

Yep I took the bolts out and they tighten up just fine and lock into position

I must add I can get at least one of the bolts to tighten but then the other 3 don’t play ball, one tightens up properly so I’m a bit confused 🙁

Fooking bikes think I may just sell it and get a roadie!

Got a spare Hope ring if you just want to try it out, that’d eliminate the chainring/chainring bolts being the issue, then you could put it down to being a characteristic of the narrow wide chainring?

Njee if its bottoming out is there a solution or does that just mean the bolts aren’t correct for the ring?

As said – washers. M8 ones, I used some and never had an issue. Or you could file the female part of the bolt.

Cheers mate may take you up on that lol

You know was riding today and trying to look at it whilst it was making the noise, I’m just wondering if its the chainline and the fact the chain hooks on the thicker bits if the ring abit more, so to say its like clicking on the thicker teeth when joining upto the chainring and/or when the chains released from chainring

I’m really stumped now I had some new frame bearings and bb bearings done yesterday

My hope headset bearings are a bit Ropey so that’s the last thing on the list along with perhaps new chainring bolts, though I can’t see that being the problem

So I reckon I’m just stuck with it, it’s not going away not sure what else to do I’ve literally done everything possible now lol

Get some slimmer ones, yours are too wide…

http://www.charliethebikemonger.com/id-cromo-chainring-bolts—single-speed-double-and-extra-large-128-p.asp

As Charlie says, get some single chainring specific bolts. Don’t use washers. Also mounting chainrings is not just bolt them on and go. Chainrings are not perfectly round and do not always sit perfectly. So spin the rear wheel and look for tight spots with the chain tensioned. As usual, Sheldon tells you how – as you see it with tandem timing chains all the time.

The clicking is annoying isn’t it? Chainring bolts is the first place to look.

guys they are singlering chain ring bolts, the proper jobby ones!

infact charlie they are the same ones as those id ones!

pretty confused now, its a single specific ring and single ring chain ring bolts

so surely they should fit?

arrrrrggggghhhhh!

tired – not sure what you mean really? i just line up the holes and bang it on??

pretty much as ive always done it 😆

your damn right its annoying – whats more annoying is when you cant source the click – ive done everything i can think of now, and its only doing it in 1st and 2nd gear on steep road climbs – and as soon as i go off road on steep climbs you can here its loads more clicking away as its seems like its when the suspension compresses that bit more with off road bumps

I was thinking adjustment for SS and fixed really. Looks like your new ring is thinner. You can always file down the bolts a little.

guys they are singlering chain ring bolts, the proper jobby ones!

infact charlie they are the same ones as those id ones!

Both parts? ive tried to fit ss backs(nuts) with different fronts(bolts) before and it didnt work, the bolt wasnt threaded all the way and had a shoulder near the head, meant the thread bottomed out.