I sympathise. It looks like it should be simple but they really don’t want to separate. Took a brutal approach and its mighty tricky not to damage the frame. 😯

Dont leave your bikes out in the rain people. Also this had to be done to get the forks out.

Did Kryton come round to help you out ?

😀

You should post this crankset picture and describe it like “I was riding a very steep climb when suddenly…” 😯

I sympathise. It looks like it should be simple but they really don’t want to separate. Took a brutal approach and its mighty tricky not to damage the frame

At least you had a grinder, I did one with a hacksaw!

Bit of duct tape and that will be good as new!

I don’t think it’s rain, more likely :

crappy alloy/extractor threads on cheap cranks

no grease on quill stem.

should not have been a need to chop the cranks…placing a big flat screwdriver behind the crank and then whacking it with a big f-off hammer should get it off…assuming the axle is a square taper
as for the fork…to me it doesnt look like it will come off until you unscrew the lockring on top of the headset cup as that is whats holding the fork to the frame…i’m assuming its a threaded fork steerer

oh dear!

I’ll look forward to hearing how much grief the bottom bracket gives you when you try to get it out of the frame.

Does the frame have some sentimental value?

Not nearly enough ‘stray grinding’. 2/10

I had one stuck recently, eventually gave up and took the hammer/drift to the BB cup and got it to rotate enough that it was loose and unscrewed the whole lot from the frame.

Already regretting the choice of square taper for their replacement, horrible system, it was probably fine in the days of adjustable BB’s which needed greasing every thousand miles, but once shimano came along with UN-xx BB’s that lasted 5000miles they had plenty of time to sieze.

Only tip I found that worked (without destroying eveything) was to go for a ride with the bolts removed, stop and do them up again as soon as it starts to knock and hope you’ve broken the bond without mullering the crank tapers.

Gonzy, a screwdriver behind the cranks and a hammer. 😆

You’ve obviously not experienced properly seized cranks before. These took ten minutes with a lump hammer even once the taper was 1/4 exposed.

If the stem is rusted to the steerer I assure you undoing the top headset nut will achieve the grand sum of sod all. It’s ok, I know what I’m doing…

Sentimental value? Not really, it’s a £7 eBay cannondale M500, I’ve got half a plan to cobble a commuter together, but mainly I don’t like being beaten. 😈

The bottom bracket was exactly as awful as you’d imagine but I got it out in one piece, not sure how you’d even go about getting that out without ruining the frame of it was completely seized.

I’d have got my Dremel and cut most of the way through the crank at two places 180 degrees opposite. Then I’d have smacked a chisel in the groove hoping to break half of it off.

They’re tougher than you think…

SO AM I

👿

Frankenbike commuter stage one complete. Budget will sneak over £50 as I splashed out £20 on some nice brakes.

That looks like a nice frame! 🙂

Nice frame, shame about the forks.

See above.

Yup those forks are gash.

They are, but, It’s a 1″ inch headset, mine and everyone else’s sheds have come up empty. If anyone has a better alternative and stem to donate to the scheme… 😀