On-One is cheap as- whats wrong with it?! Is it super heavy? Can anyone persuade me to spend more?…

Currently using an ENO but have just purchased an old Saracen frame with track ends welded on.

I had the On-one and it lased really well.

Now have a DMR revolver and looks almost identical.

oooh, was that the killi on eBay? 🙂

Why not use a normal 9spd freehub hub and an SS kit – makes chainline adjustment possible and you can reuse/sell the wheel later?

the on-one hub is great ( and yes i believe it is the same as the revolver ). cart bearings, easy to fix for less than a fiver. however you’ll need a freewheel for it. unless you get a white industries one the others are a bit cack. you might be better off with a regular cassette type hub as suggested above, and a spacer/cog kit. probably what i would do if building from scratch.

Thanks for the replies chaps & Stoner- yes it was that kili on the bay £60 not bad I reckon.

Cassette hub vs screw on… well I have a couple of ACS claw thingies and could use them, I dont have any spacers- and spacers look a bit rubbish dont they? I also have a Mavic rim burning a hole in my shed.

I do have a spare cassette type rear wheel (Quando hub on Acme rim or something lol) but by the time I buy a cog and some spacers I’m nearly at the price of an On One hub…

Hmm. I’ve had an On-One SS rear hub for since late August, so less than 6 months of which it was idle for nearly 2 months, and the bearings siezed already, I’ve just replaced them.

conversely mine did about 2 years before i had to replace them…
🙂

Another vote for a ‘normal’ hub – I really can’t see any point in SS specific ones unless the aesthetics really are that important (in which case I doubt you’d be going for an on-one hub 😉 )

One of the benefits of using a SS specific hub is that the spokes are further outboard, making for a stronger wheel. Other than that, they’re generally a bit lighter, and also tend to have threaded axles so you can use allen bolts instead of QR, which is handy if you have a disc brake. You can cut threads into the axle of your cassette hub, or fit a solid axle and nuts, of course.
White Industries freehubs are very lovely, and last a long time. The other benefit is that servicing or greasing the guts is very, very easy – undo the pin spanner and it’s there. Cassette hub is: remove sprockets, remove axle and bearings, find 10mm allen key, fat mate and workbench with vice, etc etc.

If you’ve got a standard rear wheel it’s worth using that first – you can also run different sized cogs to give more than one speed (handy if you ride out to rides on the road) or to fine tune your ratio. If you’re happy with the ratios, can tune the chainline (external bearing BBs are good, as you can use spacers), and want a fit and forget hub, then something like an On-One + White Industries will be pretty good.

My advice? Starting from scratch, cost out the two options. Building a dishless rear wheel is as easy as it gets, so you may find that the total DIY cost is cheaper than a cassette rear wheel, especially if you have a rim hanging around.