When do you know when to replace your cassette/chain/chainrings? just gonna brainstorm here.
Over the years I’ve tried various methods, replacing the chain when it get’s beyond 1.5 (or whatever it is on that little guage) – 3 chains per cassette they say?, but the methods I’ve used the last two times is run everything into the ground and then replace all 3 parts.
This works and guarantees non slippage for months. I usually replace with all XT components so it works out fairly expensive, unless I pick up a bargain the classifieds here. I run a triple (I like the big ring, okay?!) so it’s chain at 20 quid, cassette at 40 odd and 3 chain rings at approx 60 for all 3 = £120, I tend to replace them once a year. Is £120 once a year that bad??
The XT cassette is non negotiable as anything less chews into the freehub body. But would I notice any loss of performance with non branded chainrings? or a lesser quality chain? (my pref is a KMC X)
My mileage is about 80/100 miles a month, every month of the year through mud grit rock etc. Local rides through woods and a couple of bigger rides away from home.
Maybe I’m being too cautious, wouldn’t you expect chainrings to run in excess of 1200 miles before performance starts to slip?
1200 miles seems about right for a chain.
How many miles would you expect out of an XT cassette?
I am contemplating turning my 26″ Soul into a pure trail bike with a 1X drivetrain and using the 29er for longer XC rides, keeping the triple on there.

When do you replace drivetrain components?

I let mine wear together and replace all (chain ring, chain, cassette, inner and outer cables) at the same time every 12-18 months depending on wear or if it starts to significantly skip. I do about the same mileage as you, and like you have tried various combos over the years.

Depends a awful lot on your local conditions

I tell myself every time a fit a new set I’ll keep on top of chain wear “3 or even 4 chains to a cassette” I’ll tell myself – 6 months later it’s a geasy worn mess and I’ll say – better get that chain… 12 months later it’s all knackered, 6 months after that the lot goes in the bin and I buy all new.

I’m going to replace them when they finally die – hook shaped chainrings, one tooth missing on the big ring, one tooth missing on the cassette.

But then I’m skint.

I tend to stockpile replaceable components and buy whenever there’s a deal…
This tends to make me more proactive (I think)….

I’m intrigued as to why you think an XT cassette will chew the free hub less… I’d have thought the more on a spider the better as the load is spread wider and XT loses spiders for weight over SLX

However the best laid plans… etc. and I just replaced a chainring because the pins were damaged… (not my bike but kids) so I stuck on a spare chain anyway but the cassette poked fine except expander which I took off (wasn’t needed) but have a new one to replace (when needed due to riding elsewhere) from when they were on sale

I also have a habit of switching wheels and that means same cassette so that prompts me to keep the chain new…

I use three chains and rotate them (whenever one needs an off-the-bike clean I swap). This works, but not so much now because of the re-using 11 speed quick-links issue and because, having gone 1x, the chainring wears out before everything else and needs replacing earlier. The thing with this method is to change chains fairly regularly, otherwise when you do change the cassette can be too worn.

I’m intrigued as to why you think an XT cassette will chew the free hub less

my understanding – Freehubs generally made of aluminium, most lower spec cassettes made from steel…the steel ones tend to chew the splines of aluminium freehubs. (Hope Hubs are notoriously bad for this)

4000+ miles on my current drivetrain (XT) fitted to my Scott E-Genius, it’s very worn but i’m not changing it till the shifting starts to bugger up or it breaks. I’ve got a new chain/cassette/front sprocket waiting for the inevitable to happen but it still shifts perfectly well with no chainsuck so i’m not changing it yet.

yes it is a Hope Hub. I have experience of this with my last freehub eventually having to be replaced purely because of this issue. The cassette used to move about because of the notches on the freehub body.

I try and change chains before they are 1/8th” over 12″. So probably get 2 chains per cassette/ chainring before I forget and then need to do the lot. N/W chainrings don’t last as long as the cassette though.

On the singlespeed I am extra tight and change chains up to the point when the cog/chainring can’t take any more new chains, then flip them and go again.

I’m in the let it all run down and replace the lot, I’ve tried to keep swapping chains but it has never worked out for me.

OP: I would have thought running a triple you might get away without changing all your chain rings, as your spreading the load.

+1for running the lot till it’s dead, now I run 1x this means an inevitable spoilt ride at some point. When I ran 3x or 2x I coyld always use a different chainring to get home. I would always only replace the middle ring when it started skipping because generally the others were fine, and would only get replaced when they wore out. No need to replace all chainrings at once

1200 miles seems about right for a chain.

I can’t get close to that on a MTB chain.
~500mi on a chain, big ring (on a 2x) and cassette at ~2000mi. Small ring weirdly still seems fine.

I use the run everything till it dies technique if I get sloppy and forget to check/change a chain early enough