Thanks for recommendations.

– M

Loving x kings atm the protection with black chilli

Racing Ralphs

(Steel hardtail BTW).

Thx Tony & njee.

i use nobbly nics… works for me all year round!

Racing Ralphs are lighter, faster, as grippy in the dry, and not much worse in the wet. Personally find Nics pretty crap in the mud anyway, may as well have a tyre that works better the rest of the time 🙂

half price ones for me.. 8)

(evening bump)

Ardent front, Larsen rear

OK Nobby Nics I think it is, do I need the UST for my Crest’s, or should I NOT get the UST?

Ta.

Not ust. Normal folding ones should work fine and are a lot lighter.

I am trying to find a decent, light tyre to run tubeless.
UST Maxxis, Schwalbe and Conti are all very heavy – noticeably so. On the plus side they are robust and go up very easily.
Perhaps I am trying the wrong non-UST tyres tubeless, but have not had much success.
Maxxis (advantage, ignitor) – not close to going up, even with CO2. Schwalbe tubeless ready Dirty Dans – same. Conti Rubber Queen – go up OK but porous, gave up after 4 days of spinning with latex.
Have not tried NN, RR etc – perhaps thats where I go next. Hope they go up better than the DDs.

So to answer your question, UST tyres will be easy to set up but if you could find something lighter that works you may be happier.

@pete thx

@djf my hunch is these rims are designed for running ‘normal’ tyres tubeless, not UST. Though I didn’t know that when I bought them, and buying the ‘wrong’ tyres is an expensive mistake nowadays.

my hunch is these rims are designed for running ‘normal’ tyres tubeless, not UST. Though I didn’t know that when I bought them, and buying the ‘wrong’ tyres is an expensive mistake nowadays.

Correct, you’ll find UST tyres are bastard tight, in fact you’ll find some non-UST tyres bastard tight!

yeah when I first had them I managed to get a Maxxis ADvantage on with a tube, but had it cut it off.

I think next time over I’d just buy proper UST rims.

Have you looked at the bongtrager range? Good prices and tubless ready versions (tlr). I’ve bought an xr3 for the back and xr4 for the front. Can’t comment on performance thought as I haven’t used them yet.

Listen to Njee 🙂

Also, I’d recommend Rocket Rons 2.25 over the Racing Ralphs – I prefer the extra grip in the wet and mud, plus for where I ride they’re faster.

Although Njee prefers the RaRas for his riding 🙂

They’re only not good if you batter your tyres about sharp rocks a lot, due to the thin sidewalls.

Schwalbe have to be the easiest tyres I’ve tubelessed, followed closely by Bonty.

I have to say, I bought a pir of the new Bontrager XR4s, while they were great the tubeless, and looked good – the performance was sub-par. They felt wooden, heavy, and rolled badly. They went back on the 30-day guarantee.

@burs yeah Bonty are in the frame a bit, I have Mud X at the mo

@rickon for southern shandy riding (N Downs. Surrey Hills 80%), no proper rocks here, and I have a FS for those placees anyway

ok button pressed on 2.25 RoRos for the better wet performance (now we have a hosepipe ban, it’s going to rain until October), and I’ve explained to my daughter why she’s getting no more pocket money this year

I’ll report back on installation

where did you order those Rons from?

If you can…. buy them from Merlin Cycles here for £25 each:

http://www.merlincycles.co.uk/Bike+Shop/Tyres++Tubes/Tyres++Tubes+MTB/Schwalbe+Tyres/Schwalbe+Tyre+Sale_NOBBY-NIC-SALE.htm

The 2011 onwards, Pacestar compound ones are a bugger to get on Crest rims.

Mount them with a tube first, up to say 35 psi, you’ll hear the tyre ping into place with some nice scary sounding pops – it’s all normal. Deflate the tyre, unmount one side of the tyre – being careful not to unmount the other side, remove the tube and pop the tubeless valve in, pop the tyre back on the bead and inflate – should go up easy peasy with a track pump.

Inflate to 35 psi again, deflate the tyre, remove the valve core and pop some stans in.

Simples 🙂 If at any time it’s a bit hard to get it up, get some washing up liquid on a sponge and rub it on and under the tyre bead to help it pop on easier.

Too late, OnOne 30 quid each http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/TYSCRRONEVO/schwalbe_rocket_ron_evo_folding_tyre

Ta for advice.

That’s fine Matt, they’re pre-TLR Pacestar ones, so they’ll be spot on too 🙂

That’s lucky, I had no idea they were an old model!

Both tyres put on this afternoon, no big dramas, rear needed fluid to inflate (probably due to my dodgy yellow taping), soapy water was sufficient on the front. If they’re both inflated in the morning we’re done.

Matt, were they plain black or do they have a grey stripe / cube logos on – I couldn’t quite suss out the details on the On One site? Cheers.

You may find they take a few days to seal fully, my Nics leaked through the sidewalls for a while. I think it may help to use the tyres with tubes in for a while first, or to gently scrub the inside of the carcass with a pan scrub & soapy water to get rid of the mould release they use in manufacture, as the stans sealant may ‘ciss’ (crawl) away from it (like silicone contamination if your spray painting). Just a thought.

They’re black with a grey/white band about 5mm where the tyre meets the rim.

Yeah one of them leaked a bit through the sidewall during fitting, the fluid seemed to fix it and they stayed up overnight. To be fair to On One they do say on the product page ‘not suitable for tubeless’, though I thought that was for durability rather than leakiness.

Man they are light, I’m astonished how light my front wheel is, with a 2.2 tyre and 180mm rotor on it.

Nah with a bit of riding, or even warming up in the sun, these keep springing new leaks in the sidewalls. They’re not up to the tubeless job.

& I don’t see a tube surviving in these wheels with the yellow Stan’s tape.

I don’t want an 8 mile walk home on my nigh ride so I’ll move these tyres to another (tubed) bike and look onwards …

@chives you persisted and it sorted itself out?

mattjg

Just add some extra Stans sealant. Some of the older chwalbe tyres take a bit longer to seal but always do eventually.

After adding the extra sealant pump them up to 35-40 and give them a really good shake whilst moving the wheel through all different axis to coat the entire inside of the tyre.

Don’t give up they will seal with some perseverance.

ok ta I’ll give it a go

Yeah matt add abit more sealant and they will seal my continentals leaked like a siv for a little while all good after a week of shaking and riding .

awright, I’ve juiced ’em up, puffed ’em up and shook ’em about, if they’re good in 90 mins time they’re going out on my night ride , I’ll take a couple of tubes and a gas-pump too

hands up who’ll pick me up from somewhere in the Surrey Hills if I get stuck?

They stayed up, 24 miles. I made it home.

**** me they’re fast.

also remember to keep them topped up every 3 months or so. Night ride last week my RQs went down, thought I’d punctured or burped but just needed a bit of new Stans and they re-inflated and stayed up.. I think they had been set for about 3 or 4 months.

Sorry Matt, missed your post – a belated answer is yes, persisted, and they’re still up, though need an occasional ‘boost’ if not used for a few weeks (I have a cheap set of wheels running city jets for my commute).
I left the wheels on their sides on a bucket for an hour each side, occasionally (when I went in for a cuppa) giving them a gentle shimmy (imagine ‘panning for gold’ type motion) to swill the stans around a bit.

I have to say, I’ve found the snakeskin variety to seal much better/quicker, and there’s only something like 35g per tyre in it, over the normal evo’s (talking Nobby Nics here). My old Alex rims that I’d ghetto’d using BMX innertubes had snakeskins on, and took far less to seal. They’re a heap tougher as well.