The 9 speed LX front mech on my Surly Crosscheck hits the rear mudguard when I try to shift into the middle or granny ring. The mech is a one-size-fits all one and uses an adaptor to fit the 28.6mm downtube which makes it stick out a bit more than necessary but I’m not sure if even a 28.6mm specific mech would have enough clearance. Are road mechs less sticky-outy at the back?

how much extra room do you need? Would an extra spacer on the BB move the inner ring out far enough for mech clearance?

How abut changing the mudguard? Would be the cheaper and easier option.

Move/trim the mudguard?

On my tourer the guard is held away from the seatube by a trimmed down wine cork.

slx 2×9 one is shorter.
I did file a notch into a mudguard on one bike,something was rubbing.
was a folder though.

Thanks – don’t really want to trim the mudgaurd as it’s a poncey Japanese one: http://www.jitensha.com/eng/newhammerfndrs_e.html. I’ve already moved it as far back as I can with a cunning heath robinson set up of lots of washers.

It needs a lot of extra clearance – a spacer on the BB wouldn’t do it.

Maybe 1 x 9 instead . . .

I doubt any mech will clear it any better TBH – I’d get std mudguard, compromise gears…

OMG I’ve just looked at the mudguards, the above may not make any sense to you.

if you won’t hack away at the guard (and really, i don’t blame you!) then can you do something with the mech? cut it shorter and bend it round so it’s still a closed loop? though i imagine this could be a major stress!

I’ve not exlained this very well. It’s not the cage of the mech which is catching the guard, it’s the bit where the cable pulls the mech across, behind the seat tube.

oh! sorry. in that case, i got nothing 🙁

road mechs stick out a lot less.on your mtb one you can cut out the tab that allows bottom routing though.
I’ve got some of those poncey mudguards.never again!
did you use leather washers?
what you really need is a 1950s front der.